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If it's near 91745 and you don't have a trusted friend available I can check it out and either put down a deposit or possibly pick it up & hold it for you if you'd like.

The tire actually grows new tread, so with excessive braking you an end up with a really huge tire that rubs the fender.

High pressure fuel line on a 2000XX. Weeping at the crimp on fitting. May have been exacerbated by me tilting the tank too high during several services and stressing it out.

I remember this “place” as it was in the early 2000’s. It was pretty much no rules then.

Pretty kickass songs if you're of the right age when this kind of music was popular. Thought I'd share https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aKzVvgIvPQk

Operational pause. Dealer picked up the bike on Saturday for driveshaft recall. They promised 11am - noon, and arrived 11:15 am. I'm still shocked.

I banged a Scorpio for a long while off & on, she was fun, but you fuckers are nuts.

85-ish miles. If you think it's a good bike I'm not opposed to going down there and raping inspecting it for you. I would want direct contact info for the seller to schedule it so it all goes smoothly. You don't know me, but I do lots of pre-purchase inspections as part of my job. As with anything there is no way to guarantee that something's perfect, but I weed out a lot of stuff people miss so I feel pretty confident in saying that if it passes my inspection it's good. I haven't had a single one that went wrong, and I weed out the majority of the crappy deals just from a phone conversation.

IIRC, when I did mine, I used an adjustable wrench to gently hold the fuel rail steady while working the FPR with the other wrench.

I did it a few years ago and don't recall there being anything special to it. Put a little motor oil on the o-ring and it should pop right in. Of course, I'm a super pro wrench puller so a dumb novice might have a problem. Just fucking around, but because I do this stuff all the time I know I find lots of things to be 'normal' and often don't acknowledge stuff that a non-wencher might be stumped on, but I'm pretty sure there was nothing special to it. It might take a good twist & tug to pop the old one loose. There's a little spool like thing in there with an o-ring at each end, I didn't do anything with that. Basically the fuel rail has a big hole at the end just like the FPR and this spool is like an adapter that fits into the two holes to join/seal them. If one wanted to be super meticulous he could replace the o-rings on it, but they seem to go 'forever'. From memory: there's nowhere to put a wrench to hold the fuel rail from trying to twist as you put force on the wrench to break the FPR nut loose. The rail is sturdy but instead of just pulling on the wrench 'till it breaks free I'd use a light hammer or large wrench to tap on the wrench to break the nut free, it just puts less torque on the rail which makes me feel better.

If you really did call him an idiot, which I don't recall, it should be very easy for him to quote it and show us all what a liar you are. If/when he finds that you didn't will he talk more shit or admit he's wrong and apologize? I know what he'd normally do, but maybe he can be spurred into realizing that he misinterprets damn near everything everyone says into an attack/insult.

You should send them to me, I'll weigh them then enjoy the free Supersprox 🙂 You could take them to the grocery store or post office. Tomek apparently enjoys civil war much more than being civil, that's why I finally gave up on him. I held out and tried a few times after another member I respect said that I was just misunderstanding him and that in person he's an ok dude. I believe they hadn't hung out in a very long time so maybe Tomek changed or he's just this way on the forum and might still be ok live, but it's hard to believe the latter.

The first couple times I wrote 2020 on an invoice it felt odd, now I just equate it to the vision I once had and the upcoming re-election and it feels more natural.

For clarification, back in 1999 thru 2003 the rear OEM sprocket was very heavy and had minimal cutouts. Below is a picture of the OEM rear sprocket I took off a 2000 Blackbird that I parted out a few years ago. Back in the day there was no skeleton steel rear sprockets available like there is today. The SuperSprox that many of us bought in a group buy headed up by Northman was a replacement for the OEM Kawasaki ZX12 as there were none made for the Bird at the time. Again at the time there was a big weight savings to go to the SuperSprox that probably is not the case today which would be a good reason that SuperSprox now makes light weight all steel sprockets that are also lighter than the original Alum/Steel sprockets. As stated the bling factor on my Red Bird with all gold accents was the deciding factor when it came time to replace my original SuperSprox alum/steel sprocket. Back in 2000/2003 the weight savings was significant when going to the alum/steel SuperSprox and it looked cool. The original OEM BlackBird rear sprockets were heavy, ugly and had minimal cutouts but they were strong.

Supersprox aren't all that light and there are aftermarket all steel ones that are lighter. I doubt a stocker would be lighter, but it's Tomek so I'm sure he'll prove it. ...by casting an insult or three.

finally have resolution to this. not exactly what i'd asked for but, i'm satisfied, given the damage was minimal. jt rep. i'd been in email communication with asked that i call this morning. from the gist of it, they're unable to determine the exact cause of failure. they found no problems with the rest of the chain and suspect some problem with the single pin that sheared. jt will pay me $250 and a future chain / sprocket set. i'll use that set on my klr650 or new to me xt225. no more less that top tier drive products for the blackbird. i've never been too picky about my chains. cheapest i've used was a $50 volar that lasted all of 3-4k miles before stretching to the limit of adjustment. never expected this type of failure. i'm now more careful of situations where the rear might regain traction abruptly (like slippery manhole covers and dry pavement). not sure if i could've reacted quickly enough to the sudden loss of drive and increase in revs that accompanied this failure and prevented the damage to the lower engine case but, it's something i'll always think about going forward. hope this helps someone else avoid this whole hairball...

I won a Canon Rebel EOS 6 premium kit. I’ve only seen a picture of the box and it should be coming in the next 30 days. Think it comes with 2 lenses and bag etc. It will be unopened. I think it retails for $400. Anyone interested in it?

HI, New Here. 2005 Blackbird 40k miles. I was on a trip in Spain a couple of years ago and had the FI light come on with no issue with the running of the bike or affecting anything. I had already done the loom fix. Turned out it was the ECM unit thats located at the rear under the seat near the rear tail light. I simply used some velcro to fasten it down securely to the plastic tray it is sat on/sliding around on as its not fastened down (well mine wasn't anyway). It was being bumped around and vibrated while riding. Sorted my problem out with the FI light. They don't like being moved around/vibrated/bumped around apparently. May be worth a try. Hope this helps.

No fault codes? Idling, in neutral, with the FI light on, deploy the side stand. What happens to the light? Should flash the codes at that point. If it remains on then there is most likely a problem with the loom itself..or a connector. I have heard of wires breaking near the ECM. End of the road here is a new ECM. This happened to me (2000 with code 25) and I eventually had to obtain new ECM to fix it. Merry new year all

What John said. Too cheap to fuck around. I helped a neighbor with HID issues recently, and after replacing one part, then the other, it seemed like they were causing each other to fail. No idea if that's possible, but that was the gut feeling. He's back on regular bulbs now. I have a set of LEDs for the XX, haven't tested them yet. If that would interest you, Oscar and I can fire one up with a whisky and a cigar in the garage later and give a driveway review.

My 99 Ranger had everything (bottle type jack, rods, lug wrench) under the passenger seat. Without reading the manual I'm sure that many wouldn't even know it was there.

The cap to the connector with the wires in it determines how your wires are grouped together. If you will look in the base of the cap at the spade connectors, you will notice that some are tied together, then there is a break in the electrical connection. That is how you decide how your wires are grouped together. I replaced mine and it had 18 wires in it also, but I guess I threw it away or I would take a better picture for you.