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Showing content with the highest reputation since 03/25/2017 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Brake button cleaning i have no rotors, but this process did remove a slight pulse on my bike. Might be worth a try
  2. 2 points
    Warchild adjustment was to use a beveled nuts on a piece of threaded rod. Will need 2 of the rods with beveled nuts. Run one through rear axle and other through lower engine frame mount. Tighten up the beveled nuts with your fingers to make sure they are snug. Can use tape measure or yard stick but measure distance between the two rods close to bike and also at furthest point away. Be sure not to apply pressure on tape or can throw off measurement. Use Adjusters to take slack out of chain and make both measurements equal to properly align rear wheel and chain. When done remove rods and tighten your axle, then torque to 69ftlbs and back your adjusters out and think the torque is 14ft lbs on them Anyways, seems like a lot, but just takes a few minutes to do. I have been doing it this way for over a decade.
  3. 2 points
    Ok, 2500 miles in, FI light has not returned. No electrical or running issues. In retrospect I believe cleaning the contacts on the ecu and adding dielectric grease was the fix. I also added some foam under it to keep shaking to a minimum. In other news, I sold the 1250 bandit, so I am now all blackbird all the time. No regrets, this is a far superior machine in almost every respect
  4. 1 point
    Oh, I've got those things, no problem. The price may not fit into a rat build budget. You could make it into a naked for not much money. The tank will be hard to fix, the frame is enough of an issue to total the bike, and while I don't see anything grossly out of place, something doesn't look right about the forks, can't put my eye on it. Perhaps just the curvature of the camera lens.
  5. 1 point
  6. 1 point
    I have a 2002 undamaged frame with a clear title here if someone is looking to piece something together.
  7. 1 point
    I doubt it requires magic, but might as well use every advantage possible. Good idea!
  8. 1 point
    I'll keep an eye out for you.....
  9. 1 point
    Those are nice and look new.
  10. 1 point
    They are good bags. I had them on my VFR and fit everything needed for a 4 day weekend packing on the not so conservative side.
  11. 1 point
    Sorry, need the inners only, for my V35's... Great bags guys at a very fair price. I have a lot of trips on mine..and a bump for the seller!!!
  12. 1 point
    In the mid-90's I had a V-Max I made the mistake of polishing a bunch of crap on- pretty much everything aluminum. It looked badass when it was fresh, but was a huge mistake. Unless better products have been developed in the last 20 years or so (entirely possible), clear coat doesn't adhere well to a full polish. It'll go to shit pretty quick. Unless the bike never sees rain, condensation or moisture of any kind, upkeep is constant. NeverDull, polishes, and waxes help but need to be reapplied almost constantly for a regularly ridden bike. Even just sitting in a non-climate controlled garage shit will start to dull up after 2-3 weeks. I ran into the guy I sold the bike to about a year later and he hadn't done the upkeep- it looked like complete shit. Bare aluminum is a straight up pain in the ass on any bike that actually gets ridden.
  13. 1 point
    Still looking for a stock bb seat in good shape, would also be willing to trade my corbin for it but would need some $$ added. Thanks
  14. 1 point
    Great to see some of the names in that link. I miss some.
  15. 1 point
  16. 1 point
    I wish to start out by thanking all contributors to this forum for the knowledge I have gleaned in a short amount of time. Ok, getting to grips with new 2000 blackbird. This first time I rode for at least 30 miles the FI light came on. It was a code 25. Bike ran normally, but on subsequent rides FI light would come on sooner, after 10 miles, then 5. Bike continued to operate with no other hiccups other than the FI light. (Code 25 is for knock sensor.) According to all accounts there is no fix for code 25 except a new ECU! Nevertheless, I did the loom fix, some of the green wires were a little crusty looking. All soldered up ok though. Also, I added additional grounds at the headlight end of the loom to the high beam, low beam and horn circuits, and put the low beam and horn on relays to take stress off the loom, which apparently is fairly fragile. Bike continued to run well but FI light returned after a couple of 30 mile runs. Once on, the light would reappear on the same day after a restart as soon as 3000 rpm was hit. Again no running issues were noted. Checked continuity of knock sensor wire. Check OK. Running out of options I decided to run bike with knock sensor wire disconnected. FI light came on as soon as 3000 rpm was reached. Returned home and reconnected knock sensor wire, and went for a ride. No FI light on that ride, or any ride since. 4 tanks worth including 30, 50, 100 mile rides. ..............Now that I have opened my big mouth, I expect murphy's law will kick in and show who the real idiot is.
  17. 1 point
    I don't know about the Ti color, but the 2001 red is a candy, and needs the correct base coat to come out right. I think the same thing is true for the 2003 black. It has some type of silver in it. I would double or tripple up on the clear coat. The red coat is easily scratched.
  18. 1 point
    Like it so far! I just need a better windscreen...MRA Race or something:
  19. 1 point
    Dave, I'm about to ship my bike off to FMS in King George for new brake lines, change all fluids and anything else it needs. Would you have any time this weekend to drop by and have a look at it with me before I put it in the hands of the dealer? I really have to get it back on the road but its getting to the point of being a 'project bike' which breaks my heart. However, I think there's still time to implement a little loving care, some well placed strokes, and Honda magic, to suddenly bring it back to life! Thanks, David B five 4 ooh too ate sevn for nein ate sticks
  20. 1 point
    fuck, pressed back and lost the reply. Short answer: 1. plates inside swingarm stop swingarm rails being crushed when you torque the axle nut. Friction between these plates and the rails is what stops the axle and wheel moving. 2. if you can turn the axle when torqued to the correct value, you have inadvisedly greased every adjuster plate, washer and rail face from not to nut or more likely, your torque wrench is borked or your have stripped the nut (do you still have the vibration resistant washer in the nut btw, or a split pin for castle nuts?) 3. The wheel bearings require preload, and this is mostly what the high torque is for. Under maximum lateral load (when you barrel into a corner) the inside bearing should not go sleck or unloaded meaning that only the outer bearing is taking the load. There is some hard to understand force physics here, but if you apply a (pre)load on a bearing in one direction and then put a load on it in the other direction, as it 'unloads' it is taking part of the force applied to it. This is what happens to the inside bearing on your wheel. If you overtorque the axle, you can put flat spots on the balls (called brinelling) that destroys the case hardening and fooks em really quickly. Radial preload comes from the factory, and is the reason the two races of the bearing don't slop about around the balls/rollers if you turn em by hand. 4. The adjuster plates are thing, square edged pieces of poor quality material that are only there to allow unloaded relative adjustment of the two blocks within the swingarm rails. If all load were taken on these, the 8mm bolt would NOT fail first - the adjuster plates would straighten out and then the little snap ring would fail. For those of you thinking that playing with these fixes the problem, you are either very very close to the correct load on the axle, but not quite, or you are realising a placebo effect. Please note that when you put this stuff together, the torques are given for dry threads, and the axles should not be greased (too much) i put a trace on it to inhibit corrosion, but the axle should not be allowed to spin in the bearings inside race - the bearing is there to take this load, not the axle/brg interface. Axle is soft, bearing is hardened - take a guess as to what happens?
  21. 1 point
    Oh don't be... If the shoe (er sandal) fits?! signed rsb (resident squid boy)
  22. 1 point
    I took my Hot Air Balloon pilot flight exam from a FAA examiner that used to work for the North Dakota Hiway patrol. He used to patrol in an airplane, and track speeders from above. During our flight, I asked him if he had any good traffic stories to tell. He told me that they used to track speeds by measuring the time it took to go from one paint marker on the road to another. (A distance of one mile). He was tracking a guy in aCorvette that was in the middle of a top speed run, when suddenly, the Corvette blew a motor. Even with the engine destroyed, the guy still coasted through the second marker quickly enough to give him an average speed of over 100 mph. I'll bet it really sucks to trash the motor of your car, and while you are sitting beside the road trying to figure out what to do next, have the hiway patrol pull up and write you a ticket for speeding.
  23. 1 point
    I am a city cop, so it's doubtful, if not impossible for a bike to hit 175 in my jurisdiction. However, a WSP Trooper would definitely arrest the operator for Reckless Driving and impound the motorcycle. So, beware of WSP, Triple A, (AAA) with a badge. Reckless Driving in Washington is a mandatory appearence before a judge, with the possibility of a large fine, $1000.00 and time in jail. To answer your question, if I pulled a squid over for 175 on a city street, I'd most likely be forced to take some enforcement action, or he/she would most likely be dead very soon. I have NEVER written a sportbike rider, though I have pulled squids over for wheelies. (Guy told me, "having problems with my clutch officer.") I have written a couple tickets for no motorcycle endorsement, no helmet, and exired tabs on a moped.
  24. -1 points
    XXitanium- sorry for the confusion, that was my fault for not being able to upload pics on original post.