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VRs for Yamaha r1 are mosfet types, good units can be found for couple bucks on eBay,

See, just another example of why we had to gain independence from your oppressive rule. I think the 12th or maybe its the 39th amendment to our constitution grants us freedom to run electrical power in any manner which may quite likely kill us in the future.

Ti ---- titanium.

Good looking seat!

It is true - the 17 is the best

I wanted one 30 years ago.

Do it Dave. 20180520_170938.mp4

So you know that one little job that always seems to lead to another little job... I've had some disks and pads, rear brake light switch, camera's and posh reservoir covers lying around for a while, lockdown seemed like a great time to sort the work out. Here's what's happened so far. I proceeded to remove the rear caliper and get the new pads on, the disk is ok so I'm leaving that. For some reason the pistons on the caliper don't want to move, hmmm, maybe get a seal kit, hold on to that thought. Now I move to the front, have disks and pads at the ready, what's that shiny stuff on the calliper Ah yes, that would be brake fluid, leaking on one of the banjo's, hmmm, calipers off, again, more seized pistons. Right, easy fix or expensive fix, expensive it is then. All hail Hel and their beautiful braided lines kit for linked braking, oooh, shiny New stainless steel pistons and full seal kits for the calipers too, ouch my wallet. Parts ordered, not yet fitted. While I'm at the front I notice surface rust and fork oil on the stanchions, fork seals, bushings, and new oil then. This list is getting longer. Panels off, a couple have seized bolts and they have to be drilled out, new set of shiny stainless fairing bolts then, oh and some stainless driver bits to avoid rust transfer from standard steel tools, thank you Wera. Tank off, air filter and spark plugs, NGK Iridium, a bit tight getting them in but ok, all done. Oil and filter change to come later. Hmmm, radiator looks a bit iffy, the inserts are crumbling, new radiator and an R&G guard on the list. Seeing as everything’s going to be off, might as well do the wheel bearings too. Today, the reupholstered seat has arrived, put that to one side ready for when it's all completed. Abba skylift due Thursday. So the list so far... 1. Front Brake disks and pads 2. Rear brake pads 3. Service - Air filter, plugs, oil and filter change 4. Wheel bearings front and rear 5. Fork seals and bushings, fork oil, repaint uprights 6. Braided brake lines 7. Posh reservoir covers 8. LED dash lights 9. Switched secondary fuse box for accessory circuits 10. Thicker stator wire 11. Standard chain guard to replace current damaged hugger 12. Radiator and Guard 13. Subframe, calliper mounts, and upper cowl stay in for shot blast and powder coating. If the original subframe survives the blasting I'll have an injection subframe for sale that's like new. 14. Deep clean while everything is off 15. Chain and sprockets 16. Reupholstered seat to be fitted Still, at least when this is all done I'll be able to get it tested and registered here in the Isle of Man at last, still on UK plates at the minute.

Need service manuel for 98 honda CBR 1100XX Blackbird

I'ts very strong and well made, the lift itself is completely stable and so far I can't see any way to make it fall over, there are three lower legs on castors that spread the load with a 4th castor on the upright, 2 of the castors are braked. There is a little movement of the bike possible if you push on the bike when the brakes are applied to the stand, I'm not sure that's something that could be designed out without much more expensive materials and bigger box sections. The hydraulic ram is rated for 3 tons, the lift itself has a stated SWL of 400KG so well within limits, once you've lifted the bike into position there's a locking pin that is used to hold the bike at height and the ram is released. I can push the bike around the garage safely on the lift, the only downside I have seen is that I can't lift the bike if it's already up on the centre stand as the central leg of the lift needs to be where the centre stand is. No issue with it being on the side stand. In my case this skylift has paid for itself just by allowing me to do this build myself, had I not bought the lift then I would have spent way more than that on getting the work done at a garage. If I'd had the space I could have bought a table instead that would likely have been cheaper, but then I'd still have needed to do a whole load of additional work to allow me to secure the bike in a safe manner to remove the front wheel and forks. I've had the bike in the level position on the skylift and have plenty of room to completely strip the front end. If I needed more room around the front, I could put the bike in the wheelie position so the whole front is in the air. There is also the option of the stoppie position if you need additional access to the rear. My biggest concern was whether there would be enough access to the left hand side of the bike while it was on the stand, I needn't have worried. There is plenty of room to get to everything on the left whilst the bike is on the stand. With all the additional bits I bought I spent £580 on the skylift, it's money well spent, I can also remove the swingarm if needed as I bought the footpeg kit to allow it. I'm seriously cosidering buying the technician kit that contains all of the additional fixings for other bikes so that if I change in the future I have the gear ready, it's £148, but once again, money well spent to futureproof I feel. Finally, their customer service is excellent, I'm really happy with everything, especially the 3 year warranty they give (the ram is not included as they buy those in so it only gets 12 months), to me that shows a real commitment to the quality of their own products. I actually met a few of the guys many years ago at the bike show, it was the launch of the skylift and at the time they didn't have a fitting kit for my bike, even then though, they were really helpful even though they knew I wouldn't be buying at that point.

Dunno man, balls rarely get better with age.

All Balls sells lots of junk and supposedly some name brand quality stuff. My assumption is that they get the cheapest they can find for each application and puts their brand on them. If they can't find chineesium for an application they might be forced to buy a quality bearing. Their bullshit marketing hype makes me not trust them. They use lots of pretty words to imply high end stuff and are smart enough to not say they're no-name Chinese bearings.

Thanks for the instructional. I used a similar process on my 65. VW RGB bearings. I'm at 60 k miles, and not ready yet. I bought a full set after the Tsunami. Just in case manufacturing was damaged. Now I will have to find them.

A few more pics from the work so far... Front and rear wheel bearings done, this is the rear sprocket carrier bearing and new seal Newly powder coated rear subframe with cleaned plastics Powder coated sidestand and upper cowl stay Electrosport stator Calipers awaiting new seals and pistons

Lowering the front or raising the rear will change the rake, but very unlikely to the extent of creating a tank slapper IMO

I used the money to buy real beer.

I remember the curtains opening with Ian Anderson wearing a pink tutu. His wife in a French maid out fit, and feather duster, spent a long time dusting his balls. Venue was the sport, I mean snortatorium. Late 1970's , lots of great bands touring.

So you're going to build one of those into a jukebox and ship it to me, right? You know you want to 🤣

He's not lying: Probably a combination of low voltage and chinesesium. Some of the better chargers will cut out below a certain voltage. It's why a utility brown-out is far worse than a black-out. The same thing can happen with any electronics, or even worse anything with a motor: A/C units, or your refrigerator.

Deep water has never stopped me before.

Yeah, so that's how a loose mirror stem led me to here...

As I recall, Honda improved the part.