Zero Knievel

Thanks for clearing that up.

The R/R has been replaced already and is not a Honda part. It should be solid. The wires running to the stator are direct wired as the plug was a source of trouble. Replacement means clipping, soldering, and heat shrink. Not a hard task, but not just plug and play.

This is a freaking rabbit hole. No manufacturer of plugs puts warnings on their product. Anti-seize products say they are for spark plugs (no warning to not use with certain plugs). So, you have to check with the plug manufacturer AND research the year, make and model of the motor to see IF you can/should use it…you can’t trust the packaging (or inserts) to warn you. Fortunately, I’ve never had an issue, so I won’t lose sleep over this, but I will research before going forward with future plug changes.

I decline to answer because I want Carlos to squirm in the uncertainty.

Well, for what it's worth, I got my NGK iridium plugs. Looked over all of it. Nothing indicating anything pro or con about anti-seize. If it was important, you think they would put it somewhere in or on the packaging. The do warn you not to overtighten, adjust gap or use in aircraft/gliders.

Phillip, the plugs you pulled, what make are they? I normally go with Bosch, but sometimes I go NGK. I know the RS specified NGK, but I likely had Bosch in the XX.

I have no issue using NGKs, but right now, my RS doesn't use platinum or iridium plugs, so it's a non-issue. I used anti-seize on the XX every time and ran platinum/iridium the whole time. Never had an issue. Again, if NOT using anti-seize is "official" and "important" it should/would be on the product. There is no valid reason for NGK to put this on their website but leave it off the actual product. Who visits a website to research a purchase AFTER they have the item. You only do that when you have questions the included instructions don't answer. I get my NGKs for the truck today. It will be interesting if there are any indications in this matter. That they were using this coating since 2001 but never marked it on the packaging, one has to wonder how "critical" an issue this is to debate over.

If it’s a choice between using antiseize so you DON’T have a stuck plug that could break off in the effort to remove it or going without and taking that risk…you need assurance that the plug you are using DOES NOT need it and WILL NOT seize. You’re being pedantic about something I’ve never seen on the packaging (and there is no insert in the box). Only warning was to not adjust the gap as it comes pre gapped. If it was a critical factor, it should be on the packaging. Hence, at worst it may affect performance, but it won’t break the motor.

Your claim of NOT using anti-seize. Never seen that on the packaging or item description for any platinum or iridium plug. I've only seen it in the Amazon descriptions on the order I just placed.

I wouldn't blame that on anti-seize. First, I put it on the entire threads. It's much cleaner at the base. That looks like a rich running motor, which I believe is normal for the XX on the low end. You likely have the old plugs I saved from the last change (in case there was an emergency need to replace a plug). How does this compare to those...if you still have them?

Gad...you're going to make me search for an old NGK platinum/iridium plug package in the garage...aren't you?

Perhaps, but it was NEVER on the packaging that I can recall...or it was in such small print you'd never see it. Indeed, I just bought a replacement set for the truck and this was the FIRST TIME I EVER saw anything about not needing anti-seize on the plug. It will be interesting if they come with any such statement on the packaging. Don't worry about the "shit." If the motor hasn't been fucked up by now, it won't be an issue. As far as insertion, I used the socket and extension to get the plug into the hole. Slowly turn it left until you hear the threads skip then slowly turn right to hand tighten it into the motor. I don't think I ever used a torque wrench as mildly-snug with a socket wrench always did the job. If you have enough extensions or long enough ones, you could get the torque wrench on and check if you really want to.

It would have been anti-seize. I’d never insert plugs without it.

And I thought he was a RED NECK.

As far as coolant gauge goes, once I replaced the thermostat, the gauge went to the beginning of the hot range before the fan kicked in. I was told at the Texas meet that the XX runs hot before the fan kicks in and that it was normal. My issue before that was a bad thermostat allowing enough boil over that air was in the system...only making it boil over easier.