rockmeupto125

Nothing in your coolant or oil, I would suspect it is just local condensation contaminating the oil and sequestering in the PAIR galleys.

So closing a circuit, either by turning the ignition switch on or moving the fan switch to on, is the circumstance upon which the circuit either functions or fails to function. Conditions have to be meet for electricity to flow. Think of an arc welder. On a vehicle of that age, I would suspect an aging ground connection for that circuit.

I never read anyplace in the thread that you wanted a stock one. There's literally one on my desk.

Check his account.

Tim, I expect you know this, but you should have accounts with local stores, especially if they are chains. There's often good discounts at Napa, tractor supply, AutoZone, etc for business accounts.

Best I know, their standard line is EP, here at least, unless the battery is Bosch branded. Don't know if there's NAPA in the sovereign state of Washington.

I have been satisfied with the performance of the Duracell batteries I buy at Sams Club. They are an East Penn product, made about 150 miles from here. Do you see East Penn brands like Deka and MK on the west coast?

Yes, but there are so many possible causes that it is hard to chase down. Decreased neck mobility is a significant sign. If your symptoms are improving with medication and a bit of physio then that's a good thing

Do you have limitation of movement in your neck?

You can put a tube in a tubeless tire on a tubeless rim, but it is not optimal. My understanding is that at higher speeds the tire and tube tend to rub against each other and create a leak. In a pinch, certainly. As tight as many of the newer wheels and tires are, I wouldn't look forward to doing it. Chris, if you need wheels, I'm sure I have a set you can send to the plater, or powder coater. Heck, get them C series cerakoted.

Find out where they do that for $100. I'll get 4 sets done

Short term fresh rubber and bead sealer should be all you need. In the long term, I'm not sure. When you say the chrome is falling off, that creates an unstable bread seating surface. Best case there would be to getting the chrome off the seating surface, but that will even moreso expose the chrome edge to corrosion and ultimately failure. If you actually have pitting, mild to moderate, you can clean the pits and fill them with JB Weld or similar compound, grinding it flat when cured. It's as sealing surface, not structural, so no concern over using the compound. If t the e pits are deep, that is not realistic to repair. And once the chrome deteriorates onto the room surface, you could strip the when and replate it, but you may find corrosion extending under the plating. At that point, economics would suggest a good un-mucked with wheel to start afresh wit hope this helps. You get the gist. Rereading, Google has placed many errors into what I entered to my phone, sorry.

The pain that you get with the type of hip degradation that typically is treated with hip replacement surgery is often what people (including myself) describe as groin pain.

Yeah, I can't do that with Forscan. A tuner for the 6R140 is in the $2000 range. You can buy a canned tune and have it installed for less than $500. Nothing out there for DYI unless you're an absolute nutter.

Thank you for the reminder! I appreciate when folks post a denouement of their experience, so that other's may benefit. Not so sure anyone could benefit from this, unless they get a laugh out of it at my expense. If you recall "It flags the O2 heater [P0161 O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Bank2/Sensor2] on every "key on" without when starting the truck. Clear that code before turning the starter, and no codes at all until the next start up." Shortly after you asked, I did run Forscan with my laptop. The only codes thrown were the one above and pending P2254 O2 Sensor Negative Current Control Circuit/ Open Bank 2, Sensor 1. The bank 2 exhaust manifold was cracked and needed to be replaced. There was a slight leak in that side before we left for the trip. The bank 1 manifold was notably warped, and also replaced. Bank 1 and Bank 2 catalytic converters were also replaced. P0161 persists and I need to change out that O2 sensor. I swear I bought one a while ago but have not yet found it. The truck is quiet, somewhat smoother, relatively powerless, and absolutely in need of a shift point upgrade. The ride, smoothness, mileage, and towing capability are all greatly improved if I simply shift it myself, which is a PIA as the manual shift toggle is located on the column shift lever rather than steering wheel paddles.