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  1. Sandman, if the fuel pump relay (I assume your "fuel cut off relay") is clicking on with ignition on, then your ECU is sending the correct signal. First off, make sure you have identified the correct relay. There is another one called the engine stop relay. Anyway, the fuel pump relay will click on with ignition, then click off after about 5 secs. If that happens, then just trace the brown wire from the relay to the fuel pump. The green one on the pump is a ground. Make sure its grounded.
  2. This would work without risk to other bike. Remember, there are 2 FI models, analog dash and digi dash, each with different ECU. Plugging in a known good ECU into bike with question mark over the electrical system.......not recommended. Best to disconnect battery before messing with ECU.
  3. Ok, but maybe the other way around would be safer? I don't let my precious ECU out at night to play with other bikes. don't know what kind of shape it may come back in. 😀
  4. If the relay is clicking, then it is probably good, but, switch the relays around. There is more than 1. FYI: turn on ignition, the pump relay should click (on), then 5 or so seconds later, should click again (off). The pump will not stay on more than about 5 secs unless the engine is running.
  5. Fuel pump or fuel pump relay? I am talking about the relay, sorry if I wasn't clear. Specifically, my post above refers to the relay trigger wires.
  6. What exactly does this mean? This is tricky to measure as the ECU provides signal to both wires, and neither one is necessarily a bike "ground", according to the wiring diagram.
  7. Haven't heard that exact thing, no. But it is certainly possible. One thing I have heard more than once is that the ECU for some reason (basically, it failed) no longer gives the signal to the fuel pump relay. Anyway, check the 2 big connectors to the ECU, pins all clean and correct? No broken wires, ECU strapped down? Note: in a pinch, the pump can be wired to come on with ignition, bypassing the ECU. Remember you would be bypassing all the safety features too.
  8. So I broke my iphone 7 camera lens, probably by having it and a set of keys in the same pocket. I ordered a lens repair kit to repair it from the outside. Kit includes exacto type knife, micro tweezers, 2 new lenses, 4 double stick "gaskets" + cleaner. Cost £6.99 from world renowned "oGoDeal". I'm not exactly cheap, but the other options were even less! Any wisdom from this tech savvy forum for me before I proceed? Cheers all.
  9. There is no grill in the ram air intake, disc carrier is gold coloured and looks like it says PGM FI on rear section + Grassy72 mentioned fuel pump. I am going with fuel injection. Agree with others above that it will start fairly easily, however, due to 3 years storage, I would turn engine over with starter until oil light goes out before allowing it to fire
  10. No, it would say "shifto patterno" 🍡
  11. Ok yes, clean every connector, but the loom fix is an extra step. There is a junction block that corrodes buried in the big loom under tape, located roughly parallel to the battery. R/R and Loom Fix questions.... - The Garage - CBR1100XX.org Forum ---------bottom of page 1 Is the ECU strapped down in place? If not. it can bounce around and cause error codes. Important::::::::::: disconnect the battery before doing any of this ::::::::::::
  12. Does it make your teeth all soft and pliable?
  13. As far as I can gather, the code 25 (knock sensor) is never due to a bad knock sensor, or a bad MAP sensor or LED light. It is usually either due to a corroded connector plug buried in the loom, fixed by permanently soldering the appropriate wires together (AKA "the loom fix"), or by a faulty ECU. This affects primarily FI analog dash models. The loom fix is not that difficult if you have some soldering skills.
  14. If I was still in your neck of the woods I would be happy to help in person. Maybe I can still help from afar. If you are asking if the relay shown can be mounted under the bike or by the horn.....NO. Mount all electrical devices such as relays/fuses/etc inside the bodywork and accessible. Can you show pic of temp probe and how it connects to the relay, maybe it can be extended? Also, how is it adjustable?
  15. I see top left of certificate, states, "Imported". I guess everything is imported there, except for this:
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