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superhawk996

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superhawk996 last won the day on May 4

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About superhawk996

  • Birthday 04/16/1970

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  • Other Bikes
    '97 Bird. '76 Motto Guzzi Convert.

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    Male
  • Location
    L.A. Ca.
  • Interests
    Boats, cars, bikes, guns, chicks, going fast.....

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  1. Easy. That's M9.7x1.176 and 1/3 British metric pitch. It would be easier to understand the problem and solution with all the parts laid out.
  2. I don't understand "making transmission work easier." That device is for working on an empty frame, or at least one without a front or rear end in place.
  3. Maybe it automatically sets to adaptive, let it try to rear end someone and see what happens.
  4. It's a miracle you found it, they're pretty small. I assume the whole bike went, not just the valve, but I had to. What went wrong? Strapping by Zero? A friend of a friend lost a quad off a trailer, he was high, probably drunk as well. He didn't notice it was missing for quite a while so they had to retrace their steps to find it, not easy since they were both high/drunk. They split off to comb the desert. IIRC my friend found it, but then his friend was lost. They might have spent more time searching than riding that day.
  5. If unavoidable: 6A. Make your own fuel. and/or 6B. Drive electric I've chosen both. If I had a diesel generator I could charge the EV using my dirty homebrew fuel, that would really make the tree huggers happy.
  6. What's his doing? I haven't heard of them failing and wonder what happens. My bike developed a problem that appears to be in the fork mounted master, pretty sure I ruled out the proportioning valve, but it's been a while and I don't remember exactly what/how I checked.
  7. My best guess is that since the automatic needs to know the speed they just automatically do it with the manual trans also. Assuming it's the same computer just with different programming, it probably needs to have something there...if that makes sense. Like they can't just leave that parameter missing or that input empty even tho it 'shouldn't' need it for any function.
  8. They set themselves for kill (suicide) pretty frequently, oil type and condition seems to be a big factor.
  9. After a fair bit of research, I used Valvoline Max Life ATF in my gen 2 Prius. It went another 50k-ish before being totaled, trans seemed fine. Since the trans is a simple gearbox I think any oil would work fine. But it doesn't need to be changed very often so if you bought the Toyota spec fluid it wouldn't break the bank. I've used 'generic' ATFs like Max Life in many cars, but there are some where I'll follow the manufacturer's specs. It's been forever since I read up on the different groups. I use Walmart brand synthetic in almost everything and haven't been disappointed. The first oil change on the Gen2 Prius I used conventional oil because I had it on hand, probably Walmart brand, and it was consuming quite a bit. After switching to synthetic it stopped. If I had a Ford with cam phasers I'd probably go with Valvoline platinum, or ultra platinum, whatever it's being called today.
  10. Old news. Most synthetics have been crude based for decades, and they're still better than conventional oils. The source of the base oil means little compared to how it's processed and what's added. 'True' synthetics can have an advantage, but I'll rarely pay the difference. The only oil related engine failure I've known of that wasn't being abused happened with Amsoil. It actually was being abused, and I expressed my concern, but Amsoil said that the oil was good for 25k mile intervals so he didn't know he was abusing the engine. After the failure he found that his engine was one of the ones that were excluded from their warrantee. For the money, you're better off using a cheaper oil and changing it more often. Engines will live a long happy life on any off the shelf oil that meets the specs. If you're willing to buy high dollar oil and change it frequently you might have a happier engine, but being that properly maintained engines don't have oil related failures I find it rather pointless. Also, the viscosity and oil change intervals suggested by your vehicle's manufacturer were chosen to make the government happy, not to prolong the life of the engine. Using the recommended viscosity is usually safe, but the intervals are typically too long. The omission of a break-in oil change is also hurting engines. An example of US government influenced oil recommendations: A customer's old Mercedes called for 5-30 and 7,500 mile intervals. In Germany the same car called for 10-30 to 20-50 depending on temperature and driving habits and a 3K to 5k interval. Anyone who's been a car guy for a long time will remember that the manuals used to call for a break-in service and varying viscosities, now there's no break-in and a one size fits all viscosity recommendation. I remember being blown away when 5-30 oil hit the scene. When 0-20 became a thing I thought there was no way it would go lower, now we're down to 0-8! I wonder if the next step will be negative numbers.
  11. That was the more thorough explanation that I debated posting. And yes, the screw only feeds the 'idle hole' in the throat. A completely clogged idle jet would fuck with the idle, but it's possible for a dirty one to have a bigger effect in the transition than the idle position since there's more flow being demanded from the jet.
  12. Yup, slow jet/idle jet. My guess is that the idle mixture was probably a bit rich, that could compensate for a dirty jet at the idle position and then go lean just off idle.
  13. You had clogged idle jets and a smooth idle? I've never encountered that on any engine.
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