Broke mama's nipple.

[Zero Knievel]

Flushing the brake lines, one of the bleed nipples snapped off.  Best way to remove the old one?  A small bit of it still is exposed.

[SwampNut]

Screw extractor, the nipple already has a hole for it.

 

[blackhawkxx]

5 hours ago, Zero Knievel said:

Flushing the brake lines, one of the bleed nipples snapped off

Did it happen when tightening or loosening?

[jon haney]

If that nipple is corroded into the caliper housing, I would just buy a new caliper, or at least do a full rebuild where you can drill out the old bleed screw properly.

[SwampNut]

Shit, I forgot about rust.  I was wondering how the fuck this could happen.

 

[blackhawkxx]

Before replacing, you should go ahead and try to remove it.  PB Blaster, a little heat (not too much) sometimes it will come right out, other times TNT won't get it but it pays to try first.  

 

4 hours ago, SwampNut said:

Shit, I forgot about rust.  I was wondering how the fuck this could happen.

 

LOL!  I would love to watch you work on the underside of a 90s car in my area.  You don't unscrew parts, you cut them and if you plan to replace one part you will have to replace all the parts attached to them.

[Zero Knievel]

I’ll try treating before removing.  The caliper was replaced on one side years ago when a piston locked.

[SwampNut]

13 hours ago, blackhawkxx said:

I would love to watch you work on the underside of a 90s car in my area.

 

Dude, I thought we were friends.  Fuck you.

 

 

[XXBirdSlapper]

13 hours ago, Zero Knievel said:

I’ll try treating before removing.  The caliper was replaced on one side years ago when a piston locked.

The piston "locked"?? 

[Zero Knievel]

14 hours ago, XXBirdSlapper said:

The piston "locked"?? 

Opposite side needed replacement.

 

It’s going to the mechanic now.  The tool was pot metal BS (steel…my ass) and broke off.  I’m not fucking with it anymore.

[SierraKLR]

On 10/5/2023 at 3:02 PM, SwampNut said:

Shit, I forgot about rust.  I was wondering how the fuck this could happen.

 

Really???  We are talking Zero here…bahahahahahahaha….he was probably using a Chinese sourced and garage sale purchased impact gun on the bleeder.   

[XXitanium]

What model and year car? ...no pics of the (caliper)?

 

[XXBirdSlapper]

2 hours ago, Zero Knievel said:

Opposite side needed replacement.

 

It’s going to the mechanic now.  The tool was pot metal BS (steel…my ass) and broke off.  I’m not fucking with it anymore.

Not understanding anything you're posting. If this is a car, and a caliper froze up I'd suspect moisture in the brake fluid and or worn or damaged seals caused corrosion. Same with the bleeder. If it's a steel bleeder in an iron caliper broken off flush and you want to try removing it, my method is multiple applications of a torch, water quench, over and over. Last time just let it air cool and soak in penetrating oil and let it sit overnight. Time and repetition is your ally. Don't even try the ez out till you've done the above.

  I Just replaced one caliper on my car with a snapped bleeder because it was a low cost and faster option.

[Zero Knievel]

4 hours ago, SierraKLR said:

Really???  We are talking Zero here…bahahahahahahaha….he was probably using a Chinese sourced and garage sale purchased impact gun on the bleeder.   

I’ve flushed brakes several times.  Never had this happen before.

 

2 hours ago, XXBirdSlapper said:

Not understanding anything you're posting. If this is a car, and a caliper froze up I'd suspect moisture in the brake fluid and or worn or damaged seals caused corrosion. Same with the bleeder.

 

Other side froze.  It was replaced.  Likely a throwback to when my dad had thoracic surgery scheduled and they had to drive through flood waters to go to the hospital.  This was the only nipple to have an issue.  2005 car, so anything is possible.

 

2 hours ago, XXBirdSlapper said:

If it's a steel bleeder in an iron caliper broken off flush and you want to try removing it, my method is multiple applications of a torch, water quench, over and over. Last time just let it air cool and soak in penetrating oil and let it sit overnight. Time and repetition is your ally. Don't even try the ez out till you've done the above.

 

Now someone tells me.

 

2 hours ago, XXBirdSlapper said:

I Just replaced one caliper on my car with a snapped bleeder because it was a low cost and faster option.

 

That might be the case here.  Still, the removal tool shouldn’t have done what it did if it was steel as advertised.

[blackhawkxx]

11 hours ago, Zero Knievel said:

It’s going to the mechanic now.

Or since it is a 2005, just forget about it.  Don't bleed that wheel as there shouldn't be any air since you were just changing the fluid.  If the caliper acts up, then replace it.  There really is no reason at this time to spend money on it.   Or if you can't sleep at night worrying about it, have it done when getting inspected or other work being done instead of hassling with it now. 

[RXX]

1 hour ago, blackhawkxx said:

Or since it is a 2005, just forget about it.  Don't bleed that wheel as there shouldn't be any air since you were just changing the fluid.  If the caliper acts up, then replace it.  There really is no reason at this time to spend money on it.   Or if you can't sleep at night worrying about it, have it done when getting inspected or other work being done instead of hassling with it now. 

 

That, my friend, is common sense. Well done.

[XXBirdSlapper]

11 hours ago, Zero Knievel said:

 Still, the removal tool shouldn’t have done what it did if it was steel as advertised.

What was the "removal tool"? How did you use it?

[Zero Knievel]

7 hours ago, blackhawkxx said:

Or since it is a 2005, just forget about it.  Don't bleed that wheel as there shouldn't be any air since you were just changing the fluid.  If the caliper acts up, then replace it.  There really is no reason at this time to spend money on it.   Or if you can't sleep at night worrying about it, have it done when getting inspected or other work being done instead of hassling with it now. 

That’s a thought…although it bothers my sense of completing the job properly.  Inspections are not always done by auto mechanic shops.  In fact, I avoid those because some of them will claim you need work done then quote a price for doing it.  When the other caliper seized, they wanted over $500 for both sides (not necessary), and they were quoting parts I knew don’t exist or have no need for the replacement of the caliper.  This is a shop my mom went to for tires but I warn everyone to avoid them.

 

Actually, screw that.  Replacing a caliper is easy enough.  If the cost of a replacement is low enough, might just be easier to do that than try to have a mechanic extract the stub.

 

2 hours ago, XXBirdSlapper said:

What was the "removal tool"? How did you use it?

 

It was a screw extractor.  You could see it twisting as you tried to remove the nipple.  That’s poor quality metal.  I should have stripped out the stub before the tool showed any stress.  Very unhappy.

Edited October 8, 2023 by Zero Knievel

[XXBirdSlapper]

8 hours ago, Zero Knievel said:

was a screw extractor.  You could see it twisting as you tried to remove the nipple.  That’s poor quality metal.  I should have stripped out the stub before the tool showed any stress.  Very unhappy.

Brand and size? Even high speed tool steel taps twist when using them. You can see it and feel it in smaller sizes particularly. 

  How were you holding the screw extractor?

[XXBirdSlapper]

8 hours ago, Zero Knievel said:

When the other caliper seized, they wanted over $500 for both sides (not necessary), and they were quoting parts I knew don’t exist or have no need for the replacement of the caliper.  This is a shop my mom went to for tires but I warn everyone to avoid them.

From a business in that situation I would have done both sides as well. They could be liable in an accident and it proper practice to do both. And now here you are. Should have done it then.

[Zero Knievel]

1 hour ago, XXBirdSlapper said:

From a business in that situation I would have done both sides as well. They could be liable in an accident and it proper practice to do both. And now here you are. Should have done it then.

Why?  The caliper didn’t fail.  I broke the bleed nipple.  Doesn’t matter, I replaced the caliper and it’s solved.

[blackhawkxx]

32 minutes ago, Zero Knievel said:

I replaced the caliper and it’s solved.

Did you get all the air out?

[Zero Knievel]

2 hours ago, blackhawkxx said:

Did you get all the air out?

As far as I can tell.  I switched calipers and moved the brake line last…then flushed the line.

[superhawk996]

For the next guy replacing a caliper, or anything past the master.  Before opening the hydraulic system, put a bar or something holding the brake pedal down an inch or two.  That locks the fluid in the caliper letting you take your time with the work.  Beware that the brake lights will be on so if it's a really long job pull the brake light fuse or battery cable.  The same can be done on bikes and trailers.

 

When the work is done, leave the bleeder open and release the master, then you can enjoy a congratulatory beer while gravity pushes the fluid in and the air out.  Give the caliper/wheel cylinder a few bumps after the fluid is flowing just to dislodge any possible air bubbles trapped in it.

[superhawk996]

22 hours ago, Zero Knievel said:

It was a screw extractor.  You could see it twisting as you tried to remove the nipple.  That’s poor quality metal.  I should have stripped out the stub before the tool showed any stress.  Very unhappy.

Tell me you don't have a clue about using extractors without saying so.

 

Always drill the biggest hole possible and use the largest extractor you can.  If you used the extractor that would fit into the existing hole, of course it broke.  Once you break an extractor in a hole you're usually fucked.