superhawk996

It's unfortunate that Mike's brain is what it is. I shouldn't give him shit when he posts retarded stuff, but it sometimes feels like it's the only way to possibly get the message through.

They sell 18s at the vegan restaurant next door to the EV dealership. There's even a manbun mechanic that'll install it for you while you share your soy latte with your boyfriend. I've never tried any alternative gearing on the BB. If I were doing lots of highway cruising I'd probably do an 18. I have a 16, it should be fun, but I've never tried it out.

The thermostat open/closed will make almost no difference for the hose. What typically happens (not Blackbird specific) is coolant slowly makes its way between the hose and fitting leading to buildup and possibly rust/corrosion which slowly makes the leak worse. I've also had a few spring clamps that seemed to loose their tension. I would clean the nipple and hose and install a good clamp.

Pretty sure I've narrowed the problem down to the secondary master, and I think I know which component is causing it. I'll have a go of fixing it, then beg you for one if that fails. Mikesail brought me one he had laying around, but unfortunately it's in worse shape than mine. The upside is that since it's super fucked I can open it up to investigate before digging into mine.

It was the speaker phone call with Micheal and Jorge, I think it was a relative of Jorge that has diabetes and we were talking about different meds. It was Thirsty Thursday and they stayed late so most of my memory was erased.

Yes, this is the first thing everyone should always do when they encounter a radiator that's not leaking.

Option 2, just re-use them. I know you're not supposed to, but I swapped headers a few times without replacing them and didn't have any noticeable leaks. Another thought-it's possible that loosening the header nuts a little and running the engine might help free them up.

Do you have any linked brake parts? I haven't figured out which part I need yet, probably the proportioning valve or the delay valve, maybe the secondary master on the front caliper.

I coulda sworn that you recently said Metformin is terrible....?

The upside of large luggage is that when the cop sees you fly by on one wheel he'll be stuck thinking "no way I saw what I think I saw, that's a touring bike."

The temp shouldn't go that far above thermostat temp before it opens. A few degrees is fairly normal, but that's too much. My best guess is that the thermostat has had an issue for a long time and it's getting worse.

Insert the reset tool into the hole and push.

A joke no funnier than having to reboot the fucking washing machine.

Yup. Mom had diabetes, Carlos inherited it, I don't think I did, but I don't check. Dad had Alzheimer's, I inherited a fair bit of Dad's traits...picking up more backyard eggs tomorrow!!!

I'm only a little older than you, but even at your age I'm pretty sure I couldn't achieve any of your goals other than I have my weight/fat content relatively in check....tho it's been creeping up lately.

I now have the right bike, and my brother's the HNIC; talk shit about the chicken and you'll get what's commin to ya!

Like the 360 point inspection the dealership mechanic gives a car during routine service. It's usually just a money grab, but sometimes they save people from a catastrophic problem. I was guessing your problem was just the start capacitor, but they sometimes fail because of a motor problem and most "technicians" don't do a load test on the motor. If it fails again in a short time you'll know why. I would much rather have analog stuff. Much easier to diagnose and they can often be customized and/or repaired with off the shelf parts. I was able to tweak the operation of my previous washing machine using a file, with the current electronic one I'm stuck with the retarded programming. And it has to be re-booted somewhat frequently which is a long annoying process. My dishwasher recently quit. The fault code pointed to the main motor, wiring, or a board failure. I started with pulling the motor and found that the seal had failed letting water into it so that was a pretty good indication that it was the motor, but I feared that the control board could have been damaged. It's now doing its first wash with the new motor/pump assembly, luckily there was no other damage. The way the assholes designed it, the pump's water seal is pressed against the motor so any bit of seal seepage is trapped against the unsealed motor, and the water seal is above the motor so gravity helps make it worse. I plan to re-visit the old motor/pump assembly to see if I can create an air gap, and ideally install a slinger between the seal and motor. When I separated the dead unit there was just minor moisture, if it had an escape route the thing would have lasted way longer.

From the post: "When I pressed the brake, the car suddenly accelerated. I thought I had pressed the wrong pedal, so I switched to the other pedal," "Switched to the other pedal", and stated that he switched pedals a few times; makes me think he simply panicked and crashed because of it. I've had a handful of "the brake pedal locked up" or "the brakes went to the floor and did nothing" cases, and in every single one the brakes were still working. They'd lost assist or the front or rear circuit. Some people's brains are hard wired to knowing how hard they have to press or how far down the pedal should engage the brakes and they don't press any harder or further down to find out that they can still stop. The most memorable is the one who called me while headed toward death at 80+MPH.

Guessing they're both electric. Gotta love technology. In theory they're great, they eliminate a lot of junk, but that junk wouldn't have this kind of problem without electronics fucking it up. I'd start a lemon law buy-back demand by the 3rd attempt. The law requires that you try "a reasonable number of repair attempts", with imminant safety issues like steering and brakes, even one failed attempt could be considered "reasonable". But, I don't know how it works with "can't duplicate" problems, my guess is that you'll have to compile convincing evidence of a problem. Lemon law lawyers get paid by the manufacturer if you win, call around and see if someone will take it on contingency. They can at least advise you about the "can't duplicate" issue.

If the car has a tach, knowing what the RPM is doing when the problem occurs will help. It could be a brake problem, or it could be induced by the engine or transmission. And knowing what car this is might help people help you.

Easy. That's M9.7x1.176 and 1/3 British metric pitch. It would be easier to understand the problem and solution with all the parts laid out.

I don't understand "making transmission work easier." That device is for working on an empty frame, or at least one without a front or rear end in place.

Maybe it automatically sets to adaptive, let it try to rear end someone and see what happens.

Yahooo!

It's a miracle you found it, they're pretty small. I assume the whole bike went, not just the valve, but I had to. What went wrong? Strapping by Zero? A friend of a friend lost a quad off a trailer, he was high, probably drunk as well. He didn't notice it was missing for quite a while so they had to retrace their steps to find it, not easy since they were both high/drunk. They split off to comb the desert. IIRC my friend found it, but then his friend was lost. They might have spent more time searching than riding that day.