tomek Posted March 26 Share Posted March 26 German Engineering. I have not owned and will not own any automotive products made by Germans. Never. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XXitanium Posted March 27 Share Posted March 27 On 3/17/2024 at 10:16 AM, superhawk996 said: ..., my guess is that you did something that damaged/dislodged the cage, This i the bike with the bent front wheel? Can insurance be asked to cover things not caught during the first inspection/repair? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Krypt Keeper Posted March 27 Share Posted March 27 got 4 bikes downstairs, all show no sign of these issues will check again tomorrow to see if anything changes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zero Knievel Posted March 28 Author Share Posted March 28 Well, I was fortunate today. I bought my DR field mower from Bluff City Cycles. Looking for motorcycle shops in my area, this came up. Got my parts in, so I brought the bearings and the drive assembly in to see what he thought. He didn't have that many more tools than I had, but he was much more familiar with driving these out and installing new ones. Total cost...just under $33. I can start putting it back together this weekend. 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OMG Posted March 29 Share Posted March 29 On 3/26/2024 at 7:30 AM, tomek said: German Engineering We (two sons + me) have six beemers. Oldest is '84 which will fire up and run fine anytime. One has 160 thousand and just got a new clutch. All but one have over 100K, that one has 85K and is my long distance ride. I have had no major problems with any of them, nor with the blackbird. The Africa Twin I'm not so sure of. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XXitanium Posted March 29 Share Posted March 29 On 3/26/2024 at 7:28 PM, The Krypt Keeper said: got 4 bikes downstairs, all show no sign of these issues will check again tomorrow to see if anything changes. ...wellllll? How many are Hondas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Krypt Keeper Posted March 30 Share Posted March 30 20 hours ago, XXitanium said: ...wellllll? How many are Hondas? All good on the home front. 2 Hondas XX, RC51 There is a 5th bike but it is not mine, belongs to a buddy. Older suzuki cruiser that belonged to his brother who has passed. His meth head nephew trashed it and it will most likely never be ridden again, I'll keep it stored for my buddy till the end of time. Has a lot of problems, but doesn't have the problems mentioned in this thread. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XXitanium Posted March 30 Share Posted March 30 9 minutes ago, The Krypt Keeper said: it will most likely never be ridden again, ...that's too bad... What does it need? ...cycle repair thread anyway... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Krypt Keeper Posted March 30 Share Posted March 30 10 hours ago, XXitanium said: ...that's too bad... What does it need? ...cycle repair thread anyway... Meth head nephew crashed it a few times mainly low speed offroad adventures. The electronics are a mess and been cooked, wires melted, ignitor box dead. When my friend dropped it off, he asked me to look at it and the battery terminals were melted off as it was hooked up incorrectly. Chased down a bunch with a multimeter, and while it could be fixed with sourcing parts fried or broken, lots of time redoing wiring harness and such believe my friend would never see it as his brothers bike, just as a mess of what his nephew did to it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XXitanium Posted March 30 Share Posted March 30 Bikes can be sentimental like that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zero Knievel Posted March 30 Author Share Posted March 30 (edited) Well, it’s back together. The manual I have says the pivot bolt is torqued to 100 nm. No way…I suspect that’s what caused the damage. I went to 35 nm and stopped…using thread locker on the bolt. Attached is a PDF of the repair job. https://app.box.com/s/75lxnruz1hy0lm63v5mgvux0cspznz9e Edited April 1 by Zero Knievel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SwampNut Posted March 30 Share Posted March 30 Can't wait to see the post about it falling off. Did you at least add Loctite? What size is the bolt? What reason do you have to believe you are a mechanical and materials science engineer? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zero Knievel Posted March 30 Author Share Posted March 30 (edited) 1 hour ago, SwampNut said: Can't wait to see the post about it falling off. Did you at least add Loctite? What size is the bolt? What reason do you have to believe you are a mechanical and materials science engineer? Yes…clearly you didn’t read the PDF. The inside spacer was crushed…this led me to believe I over tightened the bolt. I’m consulting with other BMW owners, but the bolt should not need 100 nm of torque. The only source of information I have is the Haynes manual…which, at times, is a bit lacking in accuracy. Indeed, it says NOTHING about working on the rear drive aside from changing the fluid. It’s very possible I was using the torque value for the wrong bolt. BMW is a tad notorious for not putting out DIY resources for repairs. Other than routine maintenance, they want you to take it to a shop. You can no longer buy service manuals, and aftermarket manuals are not comprehensive. Bearing failure is inevitable, so why the manual addresses the front wheel but not the rear is troubling. Well, I do have a bootleg repair DVD, but I’m not sure how current it is (whether it covers my model year…although many models for several years used the same parts in this case). *** Checked the DVD. The bolt does call for 100 nm. Not a biggie. It’s easy to tighten it more with the bike reassembled. Edited March 30 by Zero Knievel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackhawkxx Posted March 31 Share Posted March 31 14 hours ago, Zero Knievel said: Checked the DVD. The bolt does call for 100 nm. Not a biggie. It’s easy to tighten it more with the bike reassembled. It is a biggie now that you have thread locker on the bolt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XXitanium Posted March 31 Share Posted March 31 16 hours ago, Zero Knievel said: Well, it’s back together. The manual I have says the pivot bolt is torqued to 100 nm. No way…I suspect that’s what caused the damage. I went to 35 nm and stopped…using thread locker on the bolt. Attached is a PDF of the repair job. https://app.box.com/s/z0gwefs7p6jeu5x2ucol92zjssgw5elq What color thread locker? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zero Knievel Posted March 31 Author Share Posted March 31 1 hour ago, blackhawkxx said: It is a biggie now that you have thread locker on the bolt. Blue. I’ve never had a situation that really called for red. If it’s something you WILL have to take apart from time to time, blue is more than good enough. Besides, the instructions call for thread locker. I suppose you’re saying that I’d have to take the bolt out, clean, reapply then retighten. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superhawk996 Posted March 31 Share Posted March 31 18 hours ago, SwampNut said: What reason do you have to believe you are a mechanical and materials science engineer? Ahhh, you must be new here. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superhawk996 Posted March 31 Share Posted March 31 19 hours ago, Zero Knievel said: Well, it’s back together. The manual I have says the pivot bolt is torqued to 100 nm. No way…I suspect that’s what caused the damage. I went to 35 nm and stopped…using thread locker on the bolt. Attached is a PDF of the repair job. https://app.box.com/s/z0gwefs7p6jeu5x2ucol92zjssgw5elq I checked out your PDF...good luck. Curious; what brand of moly grease is that? I've never seen one that wasn't black/very dark grey. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackhawkxx Posted March 31 Share Posted March 31 5 hours ago, Zero Knievel said: I suppose you’re saying that I’d have to take the bolt out, clean, reapply then retighten. Yes. BTW-some bearings need a specific torque to function as designed. Too little is as bad as is too much. I don't know if that applies here as we haven't seen the it all but something to think about. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SwampNut Posted March 31 Share Posted March 31 I attached the steering damper on my head with red loctite at 287nm. If the bolt size and grade were answered, it would be easy to look up the normal torque range for that fastener as a backup check/sanity check. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomek Posted March 31 Share Posted March 31 (edited) 23 hours ago, Zero Knievel said: Yes…clearly you didn’t read the PDF. The inside spacer was crushed…this led me to believe I over tightened the bolt. Not necessarily. Not saying you are wrong but sometimes spacers supposed to crash to establish proper clearance or lash, etc. Hence stupid tightening force. Remember, you are dealing with German Engineering don't try to apply logic. Edited March 31 by tomek Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zero Knievel Posted April 1 Author Share Posted April 1 Okay...removed the bolt and redid it to 100 Nm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zero Knievel Posted April 1 Author Share Posted April 1 On 3/31/2024 at 10:14 AM, superhawk996 said: Curious; what brand of moly grease is that? I've never seen one that wasn't black/very dark grey. Castrol Molub-Alloy Paste TA It's the superseding version of the required grease. Calling it molybdenum was my memory guessing at what it was. It's "assembly grease." Quote MOLUB-ALLOY™ PASTE TA (previously named Optimol™ Paste TA) for screw connections up to + 1100°C/+ 2012°F. It is used as assembly paste and prevents seizing, welding or scaling. MOLUB-ALLOY™ PASTE TA ensures a good separating and sealing effect in high temperature and wet environments as well as under the influence of aggressive media. The composition is as follows... Distillates (petroleum), solvent-dewaxed heavy paraffinic Graphite zinc sulphide kaolin Distillates (petroleum), hydrotreated heavy paraffinic aluminium Zinc powder - zinc dust (stabilized) Silica, amorphous, fumed, crystalline-free Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackhawkxx Posted April 1 Share Posted April 1 4 hours ago, Zero Knievel said: Okay...removed the bolt and redid it to 100 Nm. That was easy. 🙂 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.