jon haney

My 2017 Nissan Frontier has neither a locked gas door or cap. Not sure about anything down in the fill neck. My wife's 2015 Altima has a latched door, with a release lever inside. It's amazing the differences in the actual operation of controls between the two vehicles. Almost like they were different makes.

For lubing locks, use Tri-Flow or powdered teflon. I have a 20 year old pad lock on my shed (out in the weather) that is still as smooth as the day I bought it. I may have put some WD-40 in it in the early years, but only Tri-flow in the last 10. Probably only lubed it 5 times total. I guess it really doesn't see as much use as a gas cap lock, but still.........

Even if you're doing track days, I recommend a Q3 front with a Roadsmart rear. Plenty of grip for 99% of your riding, plus wet weather capability and decent mileage. If you're looking for maximum mileage, I'm not the guy to ask. 😁

Yeah, I could be taking enough weight off the rear for that to happen, given the downhill. I wonder why it didn't happen on the first Bird? They were set-up almost identical. My first Bird was de-linked before I got the second, and perhaps I was just more confident. The first Bird probably would have started doing it, if I had left it linked.

Would love to know the engineering behind the LBS system. How do they compensate for different weight riders/passengers/gear? What about different tires/traction conditions? What about shimming the rear shock, which changes weight bias? I'm amazed the system works as well as it does.

If that's true, it would be a major difference in braking force. What's interesting to me is that the front fork master (secondary master) gets pushed harder the harder you squeeze the front lever. I would assume this puts more pressure to the rear caliper. Of course, this seems backwards, since the more you apply the front brakes, the less weight on the rear, and the easier it would try to lock the rear. If they did switch from 2 pistons to one on the FI bikes, it would still take a major change to the proportioning valve. ABS seems less complicated now, and infinitely better. To clarify my experience, I only chirped the rear tire when I was at the track, approaching the downhill hairpin turn, which is at the end of the back straight. About 105-110 mph.

True, but the lever travel was way too much for my tastes. I even tried a 14mm M/C off a Superhawk, and still wanted more firmness. Ha, I think I just "chummed the waters" for some ubiquitous .Org humor.

I left my two cents over in the other thread. However, I would like to say that I believe the rear bias on the linked BB brakes is different between carbed and FI versions. One of my 99's was an early model (VIN ending in 0300's), and the back wheel would chirp when hard on the front brake lever. The other (VIN in the 0900's) never had that problem. I figure Honda had some left-over proportional valves from the 98 models, and just used them on the early 99's. Any one needing a new one would just get the improved version.

That's normal wear. The big "green washer" is what Honda calls a noise dampener. I works, too versus a non-damped after-market sprocket. If you're hearing an abnormal or just louder noise when just pushing the bike, perhaps your chain is a little too tight, or your rear wheel is out of alignment? Or worse yet, the sprocket bolt is loose.

If you're not afraid to pop the pistons out of the calipers and re-install, you can do it super cheap. Biggest expense is a different master cylinder (Ebay). One from a CBR600F4 looks identical to the Bird's, but is 5/8" diameter instead of 1/2". The size of the master is usually molded into the casting under the reservoir, so you could use almost anything with that diameter piston. You could even go with a radial M/C. Currently, my Bird is de-linked, and using all stock hoses and a Hayabusa M/C. All you need is some very short 10mm bolts (and likely some new copper washers) to plug the extra caliper holes. It's likely that you'll only be able to find longer bolts, and then have to cut them down. I'm lucky enough to have a metric thread file to "de-burr" the ends after hack-sawing the extra length. I recommend getting some s.s. braided lines for the front to firm-up the feel. There is a thread on here by Red J in the "Important and useful threads" section, detailing the caliper mods. You can also PM me, if you have any questions. Better yet, find a member close to you that has done it, and see if they will help you.

I believe there is a proportioning valve under the seat that should be considered. I'll say it again. You'll save your self a lot of headache by just de-linking. Then it will be a real motorcycle braking system. 😉

Probably just stretched a little. Oil might help with the "feel", along with deleting any kinks.

Check the ground first, of course. There is also a dis-connect on top of the engine for the speed sensor that can get very dirty. The speed sensor actually picks up the rotation of second gear. 28 teeth IIRC. I had to know this info to program the data-logger on my drag Bird.

JT sprockets?? You are a cheap bastard. 😀 Actually, I'm sure they are fine for street duty. I tried a couple on the drag Bird (16T), and found them to be weak. Broke 6 teeth off of the first one. Not sure how many races that was. Then 3 teeth off of the second after just one race. Sunstar or Vortex for me. A couple thousandths of linear play on the shaft is normal. The splines should be tight enough for practically no rotational play.

Yep. Might be a very interesting map, if disconnecting the O2 sensor. Lot's of negatives, I'm guessing.