jon haney

I stand by my original diagnosis. Keep in mind that lack of coolant flow to that mechanism can also cause the same symptoms.

Keep in mind that "fast idle" is the default position for that mechanism. If you could remove the wax, it would idle fast all the time. I agree with Carlos that it's not a great design.

Sounds like the fast idle mechanism isn't releasing once the coolant starts to get warm. There is a plunger, filled with wax, I believe that disengages the fast idle. The wax expands with heat and moves the plunger. I believe it's on the left side of the throttle bodies.

Sigh, as soon as I saw 3 pages of posts, I knew this thread was going to be another Jerry Springer episode, staring Tomek and Oscar, and/or Carlos. Sigh. 😔

Rear brake sucks for sure. The pads are probably original, as well. I recommend changing or light sanding, and check them for any oil or other fluid that would reduce friction.

Thanks, guys. Appreciate the recognition, but I really can't take credit for the (minor) improvements in engine performance. I just paid attention to what others here have posted. 97bbxx, if you do bigger pistons, pay close attention to the "squish area" (piston to head clearance). IIRC, You want about .030". Really bumped the torque on mine. Had to cut .060" off the top of the cylinders to get it there, but that was with Wiseco pistons. Have no idea where the compression ratio ended up, but it ran great on 87 octane for over ten years. This is not piston-to-valve clearance. You'll want more space for that. At least .040", I think.

For cams, you will likely have to send your stock ones to a company that specializes in weld-up and re-grind. Probably at least a $600 endeavor. However, you will also need some good head porting to get much out of a new cam grind. I think someone here once built a kick-ass N/A Bird motor, and said the best flow numbers he could get was no better than a bone stock gen 1 Busa head.

Not sure about shelf life, but most of mine is 5 years old or more and still appears to work.

Haven't priced it in awhile. May have changed.

I'm still going through my Dad's stash. He worked on mowers for over 30 years. Looks like Briggs & stratton has 3 names: Fuel Fit, Fresh-Start, and just plain Fuel Treatment. Lowe's is showing it under the Fresh-Start name, which is blue in color like what I have been using. I believe the red stuff is basically the same thing. Didn't say it was cheap, but you do have to compare the mix ratio with others. Four ounces treats like 20 gallons.

Went 1.5 years on a chipper/shredder. Started on the first pull. To be fair, that was non-ethanol gas.

Don't think much of Sta-Bil, but been using Briggs & Stratton "Fresh-Start" for over 10 years with zero issues. It costs half of what Sta-Bil does, and takes half as much per gallon. Guaranteed to keep gas fresh for 2 years.

I vote you get a new o-ring, specifically Viton material. That will handle almost anything petroleum. Buna-N or Nitrile should too. Don't know what the Chinese used. Any place that repairs hydraulics should have something, or know where to send you. RTV Silicone could work for sealing, but might be difficult to get apart later.

I doubt it, but a 929 or 954 engine might.

Use Honda Bond, or something similar from any of the bike manufacturers.