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Posted

Saw a thread about this but it was more about whether or not it fits.

 

My only concern is pulling away from a stop, I’ve gone +1 on my 919 and it just doesn’t feel quite  right. 

Posted

That sounds quite terrible.  If you want to neuter the bike, maybe try pulling a plug wire or something.

 

  • Haha 1
Posted

18 front (1 up) corrects the speedometer but predictably, the odometer will then be off.

 

I rode with an 18 for years, has no problem two up with luggage in the moun to ain switchbacks of TN and NC.

 

A little slower off the line reflected by 1/8 mile times, but 1/4 mile times the same as you can pull 4th gear through the traps as opposed to running out of gear or short shifting.

 

Personally, I enjoyed both the slightly broader usable speed range of the lower gears and felt I needed to shift less frequently. I also liked the cruising rpm a little more relaxed. Fuel usage improved by 1-2 mpg overall.

 

Your mileage  in all these aspects will vary, of course, depending on how aggressive you wish to be with the load handle.

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Posted

As I recall, this was popular among folks who wanted to enhance fuel mileage and temper cruising rpms. The (analogue) speedos tended to be more accurate (stock they read a bit high) but the odo will be off (recording fewer miles). There was a slight decline in 1st gear acceleration, but most hardly even noticed. It was an easy mod that usually only required rear chain adjustment. the stock sprocket (17T) has a rubber-like bushing; most of the aftermarket (18T) replacements did not.

Posted

You're all homos if you're not running a 15 and saving front tire wear.

 

  • Haha 2
Posted
2 hours ago, ironmike said:

As I recall, this was popular among folks who wanted to enhance fuel mileage and temper cruising rpms. The (analogue) speedos tended to be more accurate (stock they read a bit high) but the odo will be off (recording fewer miles). There was a slight decline in 1st gear acceleration, but most hardly even noticed. It was an easy mod that usually only required rear chain adjustment. the stock sprocket (17T) has a rubber-like bushing; most of the aftermarket (18T) replacements did not.

I did find one that’s rubber damped. Should suite the bike well for what I use it for but we’ll see. 

Posted
2 hours ago, SwampNut said:

You're all homos if you're not running a 15 and saving front tire wear.

 

I agree with you while running a 16. Never understood why make the XX feel slower?  Cal????

Posted
28 minutes ago, CBR-RR-XX-CESS said:

I agree with you while running a 16. Never understood why make the XX feel slower?  Cal????

I’ve never consider my Blackbird fast after owning a ZX14R and Duke 1290. Now I just appreciate it for what is and enjoy the nostalgia factor. 

Posted

I had 12/49 on Furbird with the wheelie bar setup.  It went through the traps in 6th on the limiter on the nitrous.  Never did that bullshit again 🤣

BTW, that was the 1/8th mile 😈

I will never, ever, ever reveal how much nitrous I REALLY had on that motor.  It should NEVER have stayed together.  I will also never reveal which of my multiple engines I had it on.  One day, someone will get the magic motor.  Or will they...

 

neverknow.gif

  • Haha 1
Posted

They sell 18s at the vegan restaurant next door to the EV dealership.  There's even a manbun mechanic that'll install it for you while you share your soy latte with your boyfriend.

 

I've never tried any alternative gearing on the BB.  If I were doing lots of highway cruising I'd probably do an 18.  I have a 16, it should be fun, but I've never tried it out.

  • Haha 3
Posted
15 hours ago, blackhawkxx said:

I don't see where they say it is dampened.

Just spray it with some Flex-Seal.

😉

  • Haha 2
Posted
5 hours ago, superhawk996 said:

I have a 16, it should be fun, but I've never tried it out.

16 front, 46 rear here but I don't do any highway droning. 

Posted

I had an 18T on BB1. When I got Zero’s bike I thought about swapping it over, but instead put a new OEM front and rear sprocket with a new chain on at about 90K miles.

I regret it every time I hit the highway for long distances. I want to keep shifting one more time at speed. I also have to shift more in the mountains. 
Thanks for the link; perfect timing to get a new one since the bike is on the stand for some work.

If you are past the “rocket launch” phase of riding the bird, I say go for it. 

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Posted (edited)
On 7/25/2024 at 12:55 PM, CBR-RR-XX-CESS said:

I agree with you while running a 16. Never understood why make the XX feel slower?  Cal????

I have been running the 18T on my #1 XX for yrs with a passenger and It did lose some acceleration. I tried a 16T with the ex-wife on the back. Took much shifting and  the front wheel rose quite easily and the ex-wife was not comfortable with the front wheel leaving the ground often. Covered thousands of miles with the 18T and loved how it behaves @ninety. Just getting into the meat of the owerband and relaxed I gave that 16T to you. The 99 needed some help. fwiw, the ex-wife is gone and I might buy another 16T. Make it feel like the 954 even though the 954 is slower. Can't stand the motor singing at ninety. You wouldn't know because you think your going ninety when yours lies so bad. If you folks are thinking about a 16T, don't use 6th gear and you will know what it's like trying to make time on long distance. Jeff, you need to get new bearings in the steering head before you sell it. I do agree, your front tires last along time.

Edited by CALCXX
Posted
17 hours ago, CALCXX said:

I have been running the 18T on my #1 XX for yrs with a passenger and It did lose some acceleration. I tried a 16T with the ex-wife on the back. Took much shifting and  the front wheel rose quite easily and the ex-wife was not comfortable with the front wheel leaving the ground often. Covered thousands of miles with the 18T and loved how it behaves @ninety. Just getting into the meat of the owerband and relaxed I gave that 16T to you. The 99 needed some help. fwiw, the ex-wife is gone and I might buy another 16T. Make it feel like the 954 even though the 954 is slower. Can't stand the motor singing at ninety. You wouldn't know because you think your going ninety when yours lies so bad. If you folks are thinking about a 16T, don't use 6th gear and you will know what it's like trying to make time on long distance. Jeff, you need to get new bearings in the steering head before you sell it. I do agree, your front tires last along time.


Cal, if you want it I will save the 16T OEM sprocket I am replacing and you can get it when you are here. 30K miles on it max.

Posted (edited)

Thanks I can no longer do Interstate travel on the XX overnight stays.

Edited by CALCXX
Posted
On 7/25/2024 at 10:21 AM, rockmeupto125 said:

 

 

A little slower off the line reflected by 1/8 mile times, but 1/4 mile times the same as you can pull 4th gear through the traps as opposed to running out of gear or short shifting.

 

Personally, I enjoyed both the slightly broader usable speed range of the lower gears and felt I needed to shift less frequently. I also liked the cruising rpm a little more relaxed. Fuel usage improved by 1-2 mpg overall.

 

 

Exactly

Posted

So I got the new sprocket and am about to install it. I noticed there are 2 threaded holes in it. There are none on the original. I guess they are mounting bolts for some kind of sensors. 
I will assume it is safe to install as is?IMG_3644.thumb.jpeg.579571b125e9c9df10c40bf1a5f03b6c.jpeg

Posted
16 minutes ago, RXX said:

So I got the new sprocket and am about to install it. I noticed there are 2 threaded holes in it. There are none on the original. I guess they are mounting bolts for some kind of sensors. 
I will assume it is safe to install as is?IMG_3644.thumb.jpeg.579571b125e9c9df10c40bf1a5f03b6c.jpeg

Missing sensors, perfect.  Now you'll have lights on the bike to match your car.

 

My guess is that they're for bikes that use a retainer plate instead of a shaft nut.  Some Harleys use threaded holes for retainer bolts to keep the shaft nut from coming loose, I don't know if other brands do that.  They look to be fairly different in design so make sure the off-set is the same, that's the only potential problem I'm seeing.

  • Upvote 1
Posted

The offset was my first thought also. I would slide the stock sprocket back on and measure from the sprocket to the case and do the same with the new sprocket.

The old sprocket has a raised center.

Posted

I remember aftermarket sprockets with similar threaded-holes designed/intended for the application of generic puller assemblies--no idea if that's the intention here.

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