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Which new carburetor for the XR?


SwampNut

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A couple things I read:  Make sure that the decomp lever has the correct freeplay.  I think any amount is probably fine, and from recollection yours has none with the new lever, but I could be wrong.  Some suggest removing the cable.  There's apparently an auto decomp that sets if you rotate the engine backwards at all.  It's supposedly to reduce death in a kick-back event.  If you pass TDC compression, do another two CCW rotations.

 

The decomp apparently only activates the right side exhaust valve.  If it's set while you're doing the adjustment the valve will be loose and clicky when running requiring a re-do, but no damage.

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2 minutes ago, superhawk996 said:

There's apparently an auto decomp that sets if you rotate the engine backwards at all.

 

Pretty sure that happened yesterday while we were on the call.  Remember I was getting no push on my finger, after having gone the wrong way, then CLICK it had compression.  The lever does have free play, in fact it was on my to-do list to reduce it.

 

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7 hours ago, SwampNut said:

Wrench steel is surprisingly springy.

Probably a good sign.  I've bent a few and I don't think they had much spring.

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I was getting easily 4+ inches of spring from a 10mm, maybe more.  The first hit with the hammer almost sent the hammer flying, I didn't expect that much rebound.  This is probably different with those rough-cast looking cheap wrenches, which I've had shatter just in use.  

 

The angled feelers arrived, and I didn't realize that for $8 you actually get a regular set too.  But they were covered in that nasty Chinese oil/grease/cosmoline shit that is really stick and smells horrifying.  And isopropyl doesn't melt it.  

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Got here early.  UPS guy knows what's going on, so he violated protocol and delivered to me before the rest of the hood, LOL.  Their docs say to run it as is, not re-jet, but I called to discuss it.  The person who answered the phone was helpful but not *absolutely* sure, so he said he'd have a senior tech call me when he's back from lunch.  Decent service.

 

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On 2/15/2024 at 8:24 AM, superhawk996 said:

We've been in the carb 15-ish times, find nothing wrong,

It doesn't take much to hold the needle open, common problem with the honda 350s in the 80s.

Just a few microns of something in the fuel will do it. There is a reason for the automotive type fuel filters on newer bikes.

The only two bikes I have with carbs get an auto filter.

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Probably pissed that the box did not contain either Jolly Balls or treats.

 

The throttle was insanely dirty, with sticky chunky shit.  It took a solid 20+ minutes and half a dozen paper towels and a lot of alcohol to clean it out.  Now I wonder what's the best lube for it.  Internet wisdom varies from dry, to a dry lube, and Yamaha recommends lithium soap grease.  I'm inclined to use one of my dry lube sprays, or maybe white lithium.

 

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Started on the second kick with the brand new carb.  Restarts hot or cold in one kick.  Success.  

 

“The way to know if you’ve adjusted the accelerator pump correctly is if you can do third gear wheelies on demand.”  LOL

 

I did a short ride around the hood and found the steering to be heavy as fuck and also jittery, so I raised the pressure but haven't ridden again.  I was at about 28 and 32 front-rear, and now at 34 36 to see how that does.

 

Neighbor came by later, at whisky-o-clock and wanted to hear it.  I was wearing Fivefingers, not boots, but hey, worst cas......

 

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But it did start.

 

There was no mount for the enriching knob, easy solution...

 

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Kickstarter and foot peg, didn't fall over.  The bike is perfectly stable on the kickstand, and you start it that way.  It's weirdly hard to knock over.  Neither the kickstarter or pegs are sandal-friendly.  

 

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2 hours ago, blackhawkxx said:

With all the pretty red on there you need to redo that side cover that says Honda.

 

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If someone makes a see-through cover, that would be ideal....after the clutch gets some pimping of course.

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The throttle is super snappy and linear now. I rode out of my neighborhood for the first time today, rolled on in third gear, and took the front tire right off the ground.  I then proceeded to go ahead and give it the first crash, why not?  Opened the throttle in second on a slow turn on dirt, and it stepped out way more than it should for being lugged.  Good shit.

 

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Not a great highway bike, LOL.  It's skittery even just on the streets, like it's on ice sometimes.  Little imperfections in the road move the tire around.  It's weird though; the tire moves as if you're about to die, but the bike doesn't.  Meaning that the actual feeling through the bars is like the tire is sliding, but the bike stays pointed where it should.  Going to take some adjustment, but I think eventually I'll just tune it out.  It was way less shitty at 90 than expected.  Oh also it feels slower than it is; so at what my gut says is 30, I'm doing 35, and gut 50 is closing on 60.  I can usually get to a speed really closely.  I don't have the speedo hooked up so I did some passes on a speed sign.

 

One kick starts, hot or cold, but not when flooded.  So when I dumped it, it flooded, and took quite some effort.  This is the downside of the pumper carb; I need to figure out how to best un-flood it.

 

If loud pipes save lives, I'm invincible.

 

I need a better bag for grocery-getting.  Or do I say fuck it and put one of my existing Givi mounts on there?  Seems so wrong.

 

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4 hours ago, blackhawkxx said:

I see a new thread coming, The dumbest thing ever.

In another installment of DTE he took the skin off his shin.

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I've learned how to do it right.  Not only to not injure yourself in stupid footwear, but right all around.  Think more body and foot positioning than the whole decompression thing.  It requires some faith that it won't fall over to the right side no matter how hard you kick.

 

Oh yeah, after the valve adjustment it no longer clicks when it's coming up on compression.  But it's better to just feel it, and much faster.  I'm no longer doing what all the videos say.  Also with a proper kick, if it fails to start, you'll be right before compression.  One little push, decomp lever and tiny push, kick.

 

It smelled rich at idle, so I tried a turn in on the idle screw.  This was followed by 30-some kicks, lots of backfire on decel, dying at idle, many more kicks.  I put it right the fuck back and all good, starts on the first kick again.

 

Shit, I just realized, I was wearing this at the time.

 

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On 2/28/2024 at 1:36 PM, SwampNut said:

I need to figure out how to best un-flood it.

 

Throttle open about halfway, pull decomp lever, kick through about 10 times.  You don't have to flail at it, but don't be too casual about it either.

 

Once I stopped crashing (read: started riding more conservatively as my bones became more brittle), I didn't have much need for the decomp.  I don't even have it on my XR4 anymore.  Starting was always super simple after the pumper carb, just find the compression "detent" at TDC, whack the throttle once (if cold), and kick it like you ain't scared of it.  I've had my shin bit a couple of times, mostly because of a combination between poor foot placement on the starter and aftermarket wide pegs.

 

Glad it's working out for you.  

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I don't think the 650 will go over TDC without the lever.  I've put a full effort into multiple times, and almost went over the bars instead.  Maybe I should gain some weight.

 

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