SwampNut Posted January 11 Author Share Posted January 11 Yes! Actually did find a crack when I was going over the "final" check list, and also it's not shiny red aluminum. So the fronts and rears are being replaced. What's another $25 now... If the photos are accurate, the other retarded thing about them not knowing which is which...quantity. The L takes two of the two-screw clamps, so those packages show photos of two. But they fit the R. And my package for the R contained one clamp...for the L. How can I be the first person to tell them? Reminds me of... Quote Cautioning that federal spending had a way of getting out of control, Dirksen reportedly observed, “A billion here, a billion there, and pretty soon you're talking real money." At least red anodized hardware is dirt cheap compared to burnt blue Ti. Oh yeah, I removed a brake disk bolt to see about installing the speed sensor magnet thing, and found it was mildly chingered up. WTF! So I got some of those in red stainless also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jon haney Posted January 12 Share Posted January 12 On 1/11/2024 at 7:59 AM, SwampNut said: Yes! Actually did find a crack when I was going over the "final" check list, and also it's not shiny red aluminum. So the fronts and rears are being replaced. What's another $25 now... If the photos are accurate, the other retarded thing about them not knowing which is which...quantity. The L takes two of the two-screw clamps, so those packages show photos of two. But they fit the R. And my package for the R contained one clamp...for the L. How can I be the first person to tell them? Reminds me of... At least red anodized hardware is dirt cheap compared to burnt blue Ti. Oh yeah, I removed a brake disk bolt to see about installing the speed sensor magnet thing, and found it was mildly chingered up. WTF! So I got some of those in red stainless also. Sorry to say that the red anodizing will likely fade within a year, just like all the Chinese brake and clutch levers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SwampNut Posted January 13 Author Share Posted January 13 7 hours ago, jon haney said: Sorry to say that the red anodizing will likely fade within a year, just like all the Chinese brake and clutch levers. 100%, they do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoWhee Posted January 14 Share Posted January 14 Why don't you just use the "hide my email" feature? Once you get an answer or complete your business, deactivate the address. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SwampNut Posted January 14 Author Share Posted January 14 I'm not complaining that I can't make the emails stop, I can. I'm noting the sleazy tactics, that's all. I don't use that feature because I don't use iCloud mail, but Gmail also has solutions. It's not a problem whatsoever. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SwampNut Posted January 14 Author Share Posted January 14 Oh, and the incorrect parts for R model versus the L took a funny turn. The actual need is one of each type on the R. The L takes two of the two-hole version. None of them take two of the one-hole version. So nobody seems to have the correct kit for either. You buy both kits for the R and toss one two-hole, and buy 2x two-hole for the L. WTF! The rear one was cracked through, and as soon as I put any pressure on the front brake loop, it broke. Translucent plastic doesn't like sun. The swingarm loop at the front was usable, it's hidden. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superhawk996 Posted January 15 Share Posted January 15 I never even washed the fucking thing. I got it running, gave it a short rip, and that was the end of my fucks. Carlos went way into farkling before putting a leg over it, and had finished farkling before starting it. He must have been adopted. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SwampNut Posted January 15 Author Share Posted January 15 LOL. I always have a drive to do the quickest possible thing to make it run. So I decided this one would be a psych game against my own nature and took it the other way. Of course, moderation is the key to failure, so I took it all the way. Final build video this week. Dirt ride when winter ends on Thursday. Well, maybe sooner. I need to make a decision on tires, they feel so awful on the street, but could be me forgetting how to ride true 100% dirt tires. Everything since the CR has been an enduro or ADV tire. They are "new" but I need to go see date codes. Oh, the highest rated enduro tires are RETARDED cheap. I think it looks fucking great. I wish I could do something about the seat. Someone needs to make a non-slippery vinyl treatment. Like an anti-ceramic that increases grip and still darkens it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackhawkxx Posted January 15 Share Posted January 15 Looks great. Now I wonder if you will enjoy riding it? When I had a itch to buy a 72 CL-350 it was cool finding parts to make it look and function better but I hated riding it. So it sat until I sold it to a guy that already had like five of them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SwampNut Posted January 15 Author Share Posted January 15 46 minutes ago, blackhawkxx said: Looks great. Now I wonder if you will enjoy riding it? When I had a itch to buy a 72 CL-350 it was cool finding parts to make it look and function better but I hated riding it. So it sat until I sold it to a guy that already had like five of them. That's the big question. I think if I don't like it, what I've done will make it a super easy, profitable sale. And I've enjoyed wrenching on it, for sure. Things I can do in a closed heated garage. Maybe it's a project for every winter. I did resist some of the higher dollar upgrades like the real charging system, and replacing the worn items that cost a lot like the case covers. If I like it, then yeah. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jon haney Posted January 16 Share Posted January 16 On 1/15/2024 at 3:19 PM, SwampNut said: That's the big question. I think if I don't like it, what I've done will make it a super easy, profitable sale. And I've enjoyed wrenching on it, for sure. Things I can do in a closed heated garage. Maybe it's a project for every winter. I did resist some of the higher dollar upgrades like the real charging system, and replacing the worn items that cost a lot like the case covers. If I like it, then yeah. I see a Grom in your future. And wouldn't it look awesome behind your Smart car on a tiny trailer.😄 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SwampNut Posted January 16 Author Share Posted January 16 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jon haney Posted January 17 Share Posted January 17 LMAO! I love that video. Great humor, except for Wheel-E joke (groan). I guess he didn't know they make class 1 to class 3 adapters? Not that that would have helped him, at all. Not even a little bit. I would have loved to see him put a couple of caster wheels under the bike carrier for support.😆 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superhawk996 Posted January 18 Share Posted January 18 And, obviously, he could have tweaked things to put the bike closer to the car reducing the leverage. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SwampNut Posted January 26 Author Share Posted January 26 More that won't fit. Mind you, again, the XR650R was one model with one set of specs for the whole run, I've never seen a year-based parts difference. The XR600R from before, and the XR650L, have a lot in common with each other. The 650R has almost nothing in common with the others. I think sellers are confusing this. None of this fits. It's been amusing to read about how many people have managed to break or strip oil drain bolts for two very basic reasons, boiling down to just not understanding how torque specs work/vary. a. Using the newton-meter value in some service guides but with a ft-lb wrench. I don't recall the conversion and nearly only work in NM, but something like 25 is 40. b. They assume they can use a generic bolt size chart on an oil bolt. No, the service manual shows a lower value for the oil bolt. Why? First it simply doesn't need to be as tight because it has a sealing ring that also works as a mild lock. Second, torque specs are for DRY fasteners. An oiled fastener will be effectively much tighter while feeling less tight. I believe my oil bolt was around 16nm while a dry normal bolt would be 27 I think (just from memory not exact). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superhawk996 Posted January 28 Share Posted January 28 A bright shiny red oil drain bolt....Fuckin Puerto Ricans. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XXitanium Posted January 28 Share Posted January 28 So I tried to buy a t-shirt... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SwampNut Posted January 28 Author Share Posted January 28 Jesus H Christ dude, you gave a cell number to some random online vendor? The frame oil bolt is 8mm, and the engine oil bolt is 12mm. The specified bolts according to the listings is 12 and 10 respectively. So at least one bolt fit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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