superhawk996

It's very unlikely that 'your friend's mistake' did a much damage to the battery. If it was a high power charger then it could, and could even let the smoke out of the battery in a boring or exciting way, but I assume a Tender JR is low power like 1-2 amps which would do very little damage if any.

Are using a 'long life' or 'conventional' Prestone? I don't know if they make anything but long life any more, but they used to have both. The early formulation of Prestone long life was said to have issues, they've changed it. Dexcool is said to eat solder, and other stuff. In the last few years I've shyed away from 'generic' coolant use. While it might be fine in lots of stuff, there are engines that will be severely damaged by them despite what they say on the packaging. While many state that you can mix different coolants without a problem, there are some that don't play well together and become a gelatinous goo.

You're shopping on a guess that it's the rad, useless. And I would not install a copper/brass/soldered rad willy nilly; not only are you introducing more metals to the system creating potential problems, you'll also have to be a little more careful with your coolant selection to protect it. Some coolants are said to attack and/or not protect the solder. We know that the stock rad. and singe fan works.

Yea, I was really tempted 'till I saw that someone installed the chain on the wrong side. With such an obvious mistake made I can't imagine any other service work was done right.

Time won't matter, don't rush. When the new master is installed turn/tilt the bars so that the outlet end of the master is a hair lower than the handle end, add fluid, take slow short pumps and you'll watch the air come up as the fluid level drops. Fast pumps might shoot fluid up and out. When the bubbles stop you should be done. If you want to be absolutely sure there's no bubbles hiding in the banjo area, use a screwdriver or something to leverage a brake pad pushing the pistons in, pushing fluid and any air up into the master. Do not push the pistons in before bleeding the master, if you choose to push them in it should be done after you think the master is bled. I would do this even if the fluid was old and needed to be flushed, then I'd do the flush after the master was air free. Trying to bleed an empty master at the caliper bleed bolt is a useless battle.

I'm starting to think my farkly one is worth putting on the market.

Deleted. Was it so cheap that it might have already sold?

🙂

Completely incompatible, but they'll fit my '97. Shipping is on you for the convenience of having someone else make use your junk. I can't answer your question, but partsman is likely to be correct.

Check for the audible click as mentioned. If it's not, sometimes just flipping the lever quickly a few times will free them up. Next is to remove the switch and fiddle with it directly. I've encountered a few sticky ones and I don't recall ever needing to replace one. If it's clicking, next step is to test continuity and the connection. I don't have my manual with me and I don't know where the connector is so I can't help there.

Check with the supplier/manufacturer.

There's probably an end made specifically for cable, it'll be thicker and harder material allowing for a stronger crimp that holds. If not, add a cable ferrule onto the end of the cable so it can't pull through the terminal.

A $700 maintainer vs. a new $1500 battery at 150k-200k miles, tough call. Had I known I was going to keep the car up front and had known about the effects of battery conditioning I would have set it up for that the first time I was in the battery case. I probably wouldn't spend the $700 on something I can do with under $50 worth of stuff, but I would have started conditioning it. Actually, had I known up front I was going to keep it and that I could buy a new battery for $1500 I would have done that the moment I bought the car, and I would have set it up for conditioning.

The factory set up being series, the modules are arranged left/right with short buss bars connecting every other pair of modules + and -. For the conditioning I turned the modules all in the same direction and ran continuous 'buss bars' I made. First with the SS then copper when I discovered how shitty the SS conducts. With the SS I divided up the charging with several leads to spread the load along the 'SS buss bars' and the voltage variation between modules was pretty big. With copper I was able to put all the charge into one end and never saw more than .02, usually .01v., variation.

If you're referring to the stainless wire, that was something I dug out of my metals collection. The battery uses pretty hefty copper buss bars and heavy gauge wiring. Watching live data while driving I see 60+ amps in and out during hard acceleration/braking. Seems like a ludicrous amount of juice for little 6.5AH batteries, but I guess being fairly short bursts and never too close to max/min charge levels lets them live. The battery revival attempt was somewhat of a bust. The module I installed in place of the bad one was also bad, just not as obviously bad so I didn't notice. I'll replace it and see what happens, if it's still a bust I'll probably buy a new pack.

I'll start the bidding at $100. I can't think of a way that a fuel pump issue would lead to a bent valve, can you explain that?

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While $33ea seems a hair steep, I can't imagine them being $8ea. If they are I'll take a set just in case.

44...makes sense. The piece I'm using is about 12ga wire diameter and around 2' long. The spark when putting it on told me it was probably under 20amps, but 'logic' said it's gotta be a lot more. Nope, 15. 15 measly amps with a piece of metal directly shorted out. The target discharge is 43.3 amps so I'm using two plus some headlight bulbs. I'm modeling my charging/discharging on what the Prolong battery rejuvenator system does which many say works wonders. Theirs runs in series and I'm in parallel so I just gotta do a little math. In my theory cycling them paralleled should be better, series makes it easier for the user to balance their battery since it can be done without removal.

I was initially only going to charge the pack up once, then I decided to go ahead and cycle it. I ditched the crappy stainless rods as 'buss bars' and installed two 10ga. solid copper wires on each side, now the maximum voltage deviation under load is .02v. After several attempts of finding good ways to discharge I found a use for the stainless rods, I'm using one as the load. I was sure it would be too much but no. I'll probably measure the current later, but it's surprisingly less than I expected for a 'short circuit' with a metal rod. The second charge took more juice to get through the bulk of the charge but it was able to reach a higher voltage with less amperage, I think that's a win. It also held the voltage better through the over night rest.

Overall the car's been fuckin great. My friend bought it used in about 2012 with 89k miles. I went with him to check it out and while I didn't know fuck all about hybrids everything seemed fine. I didn't have much faith in the thing but he wanted it so he did it...and I got his 5 Spd. high pressure turbo convertible Volvo at dealer trade price. I have done all the maintenance other than some oil changes because he lives kinda far and isn't worth his drive for simple shit. Stuff I remember replacing when he had it: the headlights and engine water pump (normal belt driven pump and it was super easy) about 4-6 years ago, also changed the coolant and trans. fluid at the same time. The pump seal was weeping for quite a while before changing it. At one point it developed a problem in the throttle control that was kinda random. We took a gamble and I replaced the pedal assy. since it was cheap and a 50% chance of curing it, but I think it turned out to be the throttle body, he dropped it at the dealer to fix. He also had to replace the 12v battery once, guessing 6-7 years ago. I tested it a few months ago and it was still good. I probably did some other stuff on it, but nothing memorable. After getting it with just over 200k I replaced what appeared to be the factory spark plugs and front brake pads, and later the inverter coolant pump. Suspension and steering feel great and I assume it's all factory which is amazing. The cruise control works sporadically, pretty sure it's the clock spring. The hybrid battery has been the biggest issue, hard to bitch with the age & miles. Some owners bitch about being hit with a $3k bill from the dealer because the battery 'only' lasts 180-220k miles. They don't realize that if they'd bought a normal car they might already be on their second transmission along with a lot of other stuff. I guess it's the idea that a battery is a simple thing and shouldn't cost that much but a transmission costing that is ok.

If everything's working properly the bike obviously doesn't need an extra fan, but some people like doing it.

It's behind the back seat forward of the spare tire. In factory condition it takes about an hour to get it out. After the second module swap I omitted a couple couple braces which eliminates removing some interior panels, now it's out and onto the healing bench in about 10 minutes. It weighs around 80-90lbs and is a bit awkward to move/carry. From factory, to remove the modules from the case is also a bit time consuming, now it's about 10-15 minutes to open it and get them out.

2005 with about 220k. The first module failed on the previous owner about 2 years and 20k ago.

Worse than that, it's more like 30%-75%. But if the car allowed 1-100% the battery wouldn't last for shit so it's a good trade-off. It would be nice if the car would cycle them once in a while.