superhawk996

There might be a small benefit if it charges better than stock at idle, but the rest of the time it's a detriment.

I don't understand the dilemma. If it's just one of not knowing what's there before drilling I'd drill a small-ish hole for a screw, if it's hollow drill bigger to use a toggle or other similar thing. If I hit steel/wood then I'd just run a screw into it.

Go max height single story. After inspection do what you gotta do.

I just saw this and right away I knew (99%) that it was the switch. Pulling/reinstalling the connector fixes it by forcing the contacts around, basically cleaning them a bit. It'll work 'till it don't. The good part is that when it fails again it won't bother you at all 'till you get hit, pulled over, or have to go for inspection again. It's a cheap part, a normal person would just replace it, I look forward to the next conversation about its failure.

I'd love to see the front suspension/steering setup. It kinda looks like it pivots from the side car.

IIRC the weight has a cutout that holds the inner part from spinning. Try holding it inward while turning the screw to see if the screw will come out the rest of the way.

An easy solution for the floating vehicles is to ignore them 'till they convert. Once they become sunken vehicles the maintenance is eliminated. Worst case scen

They and many others use triple square on a bunch of stuff, I doubt it has anything to do with safety. German assholes have been using them for decades. It's possible that it's superior to the 'normal' fasteners, but from my experiences I say it's not.

This design might reduce/eliminate the focal point problem of LED headlights. https://smile.amazon.com/Headlight-Upgraded-Headlamp-Conversion-Warranty/dp/B07W7B3BKW/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8&th=1

And is the right color/temperature, and is focussed appropriately, and has good circuitry, and has good cooling, ... It's not rocket surgery and I think they've gotten much better in general, but there are still many shitty LEDs out there. Apples to apples quality wise, I can't think of a reason to choose HID over LED.

That's because you're a nut job.

Let me count the ways....Explorer- didn't install one of the center caps right and it flew off on the freeway. Cherokee- wrecked several studs/nuts. F-350- tried to put 85psi in 50psi max off-road tires that I'd told them I run 35 in. I was tempted to let the machine run and see if they'd explode, but if they didn't then I'd be worried about the possibility that they were damaged and that they'd blow later. I have bad luck for getting anything done for me. I still use them and recommend them to people, nobody else has had issues that I know of and they treat you well. Apparently they have a 'love it or leave it' type thing with new tires and you can exchange them for free for a certain amount of time/miles. My friend wanted 35" tires for her Jeep after we installed the lift. Her dad took it in and was talked into 31s, retarded, and he took a lot of flack. He went back and got the 35s, then decided they were too big so he got 33's. I kept meaning to ask them what they do with barely used tires and never did.

I have bad luck having anything done for me so of course America's has fucked me, but they treat people well and all my friends/customers have had great service from them.

Luckily he'd gotten rid of the Chevy so we didn't have to carry the watercraft back home.

Stop lying, you're just searching for an excuse to plug in your gasser.

Some, probably most, car's systems are semi-smart and will pump higher voltage to a low battery 'till it comes up to whatever the car likes then hold at the usual 14-ish. It's enough to counteract the low voltage time to some degree, but it's not the same as a charger holding that for hours. Some turn the alternator off when it sees no demand, maybe only Honda. Some monitor battery temp to adjust charging, some can detect AC current 'leaking' from the alternator, etc. Mine are all pretty simple systems that just bring the battery up to the 14-ish volts the regulator is set at. The forklift has a super advanced mechanical regulator, I can adjust it on the fly from mild maintenance voltage to super charger by pressing down on the smoke pedal. Part of the magic of the rejuvenator we've used is high voltage. I've seen 20+ startup voltage on a battery that's really fucked, one that shows to be a nearly open circuit, and then it starts dropping as the battery starts sucking up more amperage than the charger can give to hold the voltage up. After the bulk of the charge when the battery is demanding less current I've seen it hold 16+ for many hours before ending the charge. Getting a good battery up to 16+v with a normal charger or alternator takes a lot of amperage and boils the battery, the rejuvenator does it with very little amperage and no battery heating...magic. The battery's resting voltage becomes higher than normal and stays up for a long time if left sitting. If put to use the resting voltage stays higher than normal for a little while then settles back to 'normal'.

Or maybe it was the tree doing its business. I got curious and looked into it, the liquid they expel is usually clear to yellow-ish, unless they've been hitting feeders with food coloring, and the only black would be undigested remnants of bugs, wings and heads seem to pass through. They shit/piss in spurts rather than little droplets, tho at distance it might break up into droplets. It seems somewhat unlikely that the little black specs are from the hummingbirds.

Ashley was sitting under one of the feeders and got pooped on, it was like a water droplet. If they're messy eaters it's possible it was a drop of sugar water coming off it's beak. After hearing of the black spots on the bike from being under a feeder I got curious and inspected the areas around mine and there's nothing visible.

The delivery of the electrons is different and I've seen big changes happen. I accidentally ran the batteries down in the ambulance, I hit it with a boost charge to get it running and went about my business. For the next couple days I noticed that it was cranking a bit slow and the ammeter showed much higher than normal charging the whole time I was driving. I thought the batteries got fucked up, but decided to give it an overnight charge, problems gone. I've done that a few times with a few vehicles, all on the older side, but with electronic regulators. It's odd that an alternator could be working hard pushing electrons into a battery, the battery is consuming them, but won't make use of them. My explanation is: an alternator holds the voltage around 14, chargers go higher. The higher voltage basically revives the battery's capacity and resets it's natural voltage.

I didn't realize they're so temperature sensitive. It's a good thing they're never installed on a metal plate in a hot environment, like an engine compartment.

Wearing a race suit and helmet to drive your car to the corner liquor store won't hurt, and it won't be on for long. Our dads probably grew up in an era where self discharge through the concrete probably wasn't a thing any more, but the internet hadn't been invented so they had no way to know. Putting something under the battery is mostly wasted effort and I want to call the practice retarded, but I have stained/damaged the concrete with batteries that had acid residue on them so for that it's a good thing to do. I currently have batteries sitting on concrete, but they've been washed so it's ok.

Almost any battery put on almost any charger will take a charge, it means almost nothing. I have a few "smart chargers" and they will always put some amount of charge into a battery even if the same charger had already done a full charge. The higher the output the less time it'll take to indicate that the battery is full. Even the $3K Midtronics charger will often put a charge into a battery that's seemingly fully charged, but if it's been charged with a charger it's smart enough to know it's not needed. It seems really aggressive with the amount of current and voltage it'll pump into a battery, but I try to trust it because for $3k it 'should' know what it's doing.

Where did you get that disinformation? I test most batteries before buying just to make sure I didn't get a lemon and they've almost always shown that they're fully charged with amperage capacities well over their ratings, even some that had sat on the shelf for a few months. There have been a couple exemptions, one that had a nearly open circuit and a couple that had been sitting on the shelf a really long time. I've never heard of anyone recommending to charge before use and I've installed hundreds of them without doing so. Motorcycle batteries that are purchased dry then filled are the only ones I've ever heard of that should be charged before use.

Buddy's truck sprung a big leak from a rusty freeze plug on the way to Havasu, we had two skis on a lift in the bed and my boat in tow. Got it towed to the closest parts store. The plug that went was behind one of the mounts, yay. Using the Ford's jack and scraps of wood found around the lot I was able to raise the engine, extract the rest of the plug, and put in a rubber plug. We launched later than planned, but still got a bitchen camp spot on an island.

Same as Chevy, I have a 1500 in the driveway that had the same failure. I rigged it initially so he could get it going, then installed a new bushing.