superhawk996

Yup. They're both the same part # superseding two different part numbers, maybe one of those was a supersede of the other. There's a bunch of filters that work in place of the motorcycle branded ones. One of the Bird versions, don't remember if it's the carb or EFI, has a little more room and allows for more options. I used a Purolator PureOne on one of my Birds but don't remember which. I think I've also used a Motorcraft, but that might have been a different bike. PureOne (AKA Motorcraft) are great filters. Motorcraft are cheap at Walmart, but they only carry the common sellers. Last I checked the Walmart Supertech filters were from Champion Labs and they were pretty good, especially for the price, but they have visibly changed and I haven't researched them to see if the quality is still there. Here's a list of options. These Oil Filters have M20x1.5 threads, 14 psi by-pass valve, anti-drain back valve, 2.3" O.D. gasket 2.5" to 3.5" long. If you have the room, I recommend the longer filters. Purolator has changed their filters from a concave to a convex fitting surface, so they no longer seal on some motorcycles. Motorcycle Filters AC Delco PF2135 AMSOil SMF103 Carquest 85358 AC Delco PF2135 FRAM PH6017A Honda 15410-MCJ-000 K&N KN-204, about $13. Metric nut on end for easy removal. Mobil M1MC-134 NAPA Gold 1358 Purolator ML16817. Imported, not made by Purolator. STP SMO 17 WIX 51358 Recommended filters. All have superior filtering. About 2.5 inches long. Purolator One PL14612, about $6. Mobil M1-108, about $12.  Made by Champion. Bosch 3300, about $6.  Made by Champion. Wal-Mart SuperTech ST6607  Made by Champion. HKS 52009-AK005, About $35.  Not quite as good at filtering as those above, but very low drag on the oil. Used by all serious racing teams. In racing applications should be changed every 5-15 hours. About 3.25 inches long. Purolator One PL14610, about $6. Purolator Boss PBL14610. Royal Purple 10-2808. Mobil 1 M1-110, about $10.  Made by Champion. Mobil M1MC-134 Bosch 3323, about $6.  Made By Champion. WalMart SuperTech ST7317,  about $2. Made by Champion. Automobile Filters, about 2.5 inches long. AC Delco PF1237 Baldwin B1400 Firestone TF2876 Hastings LF113 NAPA Gold 1365 Purolator L14612 STP S-02876 WalMart SuperTech ST6607 WIX 51365 Automobile Filters, about 3.25 inches long. AC Delco PF-2057 Auto Pro 2356 Autopride CF240AP Baldwin B1402 Carquest 85356 Carquest Red B4620 Casite CF240 Castrol 7317 Champion Labs Ph2867 Defense Filters Dl7317 Deutsch D-370 Federated Filters LF240F Fram Double Guard DG7317 Fram PH7317 Automobile Filters, about 3.25 inches long. Fram Tough Guard TG7317 Fram Xtra Guard XG7317 Group 7 V4610 Group 7 V4620 Hastings LF240 Mighty M4612 Millard ML-3593 Motorcraft Long Life FL-821 Napa FIL1356 Napa Gold 1356 Parts Plus PH2867 Pennzoil PZ-109 Penske 7317 Powerflo SL14610 Powerflo SL14620 Pro Gauge PGO-4620 Pro Tec 164 Promotive PH4610 Pronto PO3593A Purolator L14610 Service Champ OF-4622 Shell SH48 Shell SH529 Stp S-02867. Valvoline VO50 Warner PH2867 Wix 51356

I'll take any piece of paper that turns into cash without being attached to my bank account, and release the merchandise after I'm holding the cash.

Cool. Got any guns for sale? Money is no object.

From recollection there's some in the collectors and more in the Y section, did you pull them all? I cut a spare header apart years ago for modding and never got back around to it.

Where did you get them? A glance around the interwebs shows $55 and up at different places.

$40 per 50 vs $7-ish per 100, YIKES. I might try them out when it gets hot again, and double glove with a normal one to try to make them last. I've used XL nitriles over mechanix gloves a few times in cold weather or when working with hot oil.

I received my first one over 20 years ago, craigslist car sale. 'Nobody' knew about the scam back then. My bank said it looked legit, the bank it was made by said it seemed legit, the bank it was funded by said it seemed legit. It wasn't 'till I pressed them on the issue that it was discovered that the check number I was holding had recently cleared for a different amount. Extra retard points for the woman I was talking to: she was loudly speaking in a demeaning tone for questioning the validity of the check, even after she said it had already cleared and for a different amount. Nobody at the bank cared that someone had enough info on this account to write checks that appeared legit, it was in a normal number/timeframe sequence with other checks being run through the account which is what initially made them say it seemed legit.

It doesn't look nearly as bad as the one I took off, but it doesn't inspire any confidence. Hard to say without seeing the inside of the collector and Y, but if I had to bet I'd put my money on a stocker making more average power over the curve, maybe everywhere. If you know of any independent dyno comparisons that would be really interesting to see. If that Y could be cleanly grafted onto a stock header it would probably wake it up a bit, the stocker looks like a bit of a choke point. Removing the screens in the stock header would probably also help some.

I just rechecked and you're right. It must have been some other service I was confusing with Zelle; good to know!

IIRC Zelle can be reversed, but not as easily as Paypal. It has to be reversed through the bank that funded the payment, not directly through Zelle.

I've had two buyers that tried hard to not use cash, both seemed very legit, both went to the bank and got cash. I was 99.9% sure their checks would be good, but wasn't going to chance it.

I've always done cash. There's no way to know if a check is good unless you're in the bank when they draft it. Paypal can easily be reversed. Zelle might be safer, but not entirely. On the one occassion where the buyer didn't want to travel with so much cash (east coast fly-in) we went to the bank together where he pulled cash. If you both have the same bank you could walk in and have it transferred, I would double check with them to be sure, but I think that can't reversed later.

With: https ://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Saboted_light_armor_penetrator

What broke to let the valve drop?

It's California. I mailed off a duplicate title request early/mid September and the check still hasn't cleared. I called DMV Wednesday, they were supposed to call back, nothing. I called again today and the person said that they're currently working on stuff that arrived 9/15 so it should be close, but wouldn't give any estimate on much longer it'll be. I asked how long after the check clears should I expect to see the title, about 3 weeks. 3 weeks?!? It should be 3 days, but it's California government employees. When I call AZ MVD I get a human pretty quickly and so far they've all been cheerful and helpful. As soon as they realize that I need level 2 support they make it happen. The CA people never answer but they have a call back system which is better than holding for over an hour like it used to be, so far it's 2 out of 3 to actually get the call. And one of them didn't even know the fee for a duplicate title but thought she did so she gave me the wrong price. Luckily I double checked before sending the form otherwise the 3 month wait would have been completely wasted. I've been wanting to come out for a visit and waiting since the title 'should be here any minute' for several months. The person that owns it kept saying she was going to do the request and I finally gave up and did it myself after waiting a couple months. The car has a few years of back fees so AZ registration to the rescue. It's a free Civic so I want it, but paying the CA fees would eat up a lot of it's value.

Right up there with "easy fix"/"cheap fix" to describe some problem the vehicle has. Getting a replacement title here takes a few weeks, assuming everything goes well. Nobody can print them but the DMV headquarters in Sacramento.

To add to that, if an out of state buyer wants it he's even more likely to pass on it. In some states transferring ownership within the state on a bill of sale isn't a big deal, most have their own form, "transfer with duplicate title" or something like that, which will have to be filled out. Going into a different state can be a huge problem. AZ and CA both require the actual title for anything coming from out of state. I know you well enough to trust that it's not stolen and I would't buy it unless it was cheap enough that I could throw the trailer away.

I think it'll be well worth the effort to get a replacement title. It's bad enough trying to sell a summer toy in winter, adding the no title makes it worse.

Wow, I guess it's been way too long since I shopped for hand tools, that is a smokin great price if they're US made. I looked at a few ebay ads and I was able to spot the differences between US and Chinese pretty easily, and the prices reflect it too. The sellers of Chinesium don't state it, the US versions are clearly stated as such.

Also, if you're comparison shopping beware that there are American and Chinese made versions, not counterfeit, but 'legit' Craftsman made in both countries. I don't know if they're priced accordingly in stores or if they all run together and it's luck of the draw as to what you get. The ebay photo isn't good enough for me to say which one they are, but I heavily lean towards Chinese because of the apparent differences in the stamping depth of the sizes. Shitty stampings is one of the most obvious features of the China version, in some cases parts of the numbers are completely missing. This doesn't guarantee that the tool is inferior, but it's a good indication of not giving a fuck during manufacturing/QC.

I haven't shopped them in a long time so I'm not sure. That price seems to be good, but not too good to be true.

That was my thought too.

Does the crossplane just make it easier to feel the limit of traction, or does it actually let you use more power without slipping? I feel like the uneven power pulses should make it more prone to slip a tiny bit earlier and make it easier to tell when you're getting close to the limit and control it...my uneducated and untested guesses. I've only ridden the crossplane once, it was someone else's that I'd just met so I didn't fuck around much, I love the sound. Coming off the Bird the R1 felt like a minibike with 200hp.

Can you feel a difference in traction controllability between the flat plane and crossplane?

Typical home 3D printed stuff is somewhat fragile and might have to be pretty thick to be trustable for this depending on what stuff will be carried.