superhawk996

I've never owned that brand, my mushroom kit experience is from 20+ years ago. They were bagged and lubed, but you were supposed to use glue with them. Many rope type repair kits seem to have also gone away from using glue where they used to always 'require' glue. I haven't researched tire repair kits in a while, but last I looked there was no clear winner. I've had success and failure with both types and that seems to be the norm with no clear indication as to why one might beat the other in different scenarios.

Interesting. The last time I had a mushroom plug kit it came with rubber cement and that was the only 'lubricant' to be used with them.

Brought to you by the same guy who's track motor fucked off while using 5-30 oil because he knows that thinner oil is the smart choice when running an engine hard for extended periods.

Silicone is a good way to minimize the possibility that the plug will adhere to the tire. Possibly a non-issue on a low pressure low speed tire, but I wouldn't use it on a real vehicle. A hawk tuah would be better.

Fishing equipment....shove some catfish bait in it, then you'll realize that it was clean enough and didn't actually need anything done.

I've read a few horror stories of people asking for mulch/chippings and coming home to a mountain of crap dumped in their yard. I'm guessing that's much less likely to happen with something like this because the dumper would probably be removed from the service.

Maybe shaving the lip off the cover would give it enough penetration to seal.

Stop playing in the house before you bust a pipe! I have no idea if a cover with a longer plug is available, that would be an easy fix. Maybe take it to ACE, they usually have someone that's more useful than the HD people, tho they sometimes do have useful people. Or maybe a plain expanding plug to seal the pipe and a little glue to hold the beauty cover on.

When possible, go to Acura. The cars are more expensive so the parts must be better quality.

I re-did the water test now that it's hotter, it was 98f out. The current draw dropped by 1.2a. I had a thermometer in the outlet and it appeared to drop a few degrees, but the number was fluctuating so I'm not sure how much. Before spraying it was fluctuating from 45-47. I came in right after spraying and it was showing 46-48 briefly, then quickly dropped to 43 and stayed there. I waited a while and re-sprayed and got a similar result, so it appears to lower the outlet temp. around 3 degrees.

Your need to brag about the only thing you're good at is annoying, but understandable. Shit talking others for not being as good at it is beyond annoying and is one of the reasons you're on the board's most hated list. Next time you feel the need to brag, remember that the slowest pro rider is probably way faster than you.

Hmmm, it does have an easy access port about the size of a garden hose end, I might even be able to thread it on and not waste water.

I'm now charging the car, hosing it down did nothing at all for the consumption, bastard.

I just did a quick water test on the minisplit, the condenser is on the roof in full sun. This is a 12ton non-inverter unit made for Mexico so I assume it's not super efficient. NOAA says it's 76F with 66%. My phone says 80F, my thermometer says 82, but it's in the patio and gets extra heat. I gave it a quick spray down and the inverter says that the water dropped it by .8A on each leg. I think that's a total of .8a load, right? Seeing both separately makes me think it's 1.6a, but I think not. I didn't think to check actual vs. apparent wattage, it displays both, but I assume that cooling it would make little to no change in the PF relationship. PF correction is another thing that could help your efficiency, but I know just enough about it to not try fucking with it.

Or a quicker test; measure the power consumption and a vent outlet temp without, then with, both 'should' drop. Your test would be much more accurate on what to expect in savings.