paul99xx

Welcome and good luck on your quest, can't recall the differences but plenty of experts in the states who'll be awake in a couple of hours will be able to answer your questions and more.

Memory failing me, I thought Sydney City was a wrecker so thought you were looking for pre loved. For genuine I just go to local honda dealer and for everything else the local Suzuki/Ducati/KTM/GasGas dealer. I like to support local when I can, I'd hate to see them disappear and be forced to buy everything online.

Welcome to the aysum Oscar, best motobike forum there is. Lots of experts for tech help and in the pub you can talk about anything. You'll have to post some pics of you bike for us. Anyway, what are you after? I've never bought pre loved parts for mine, only one or 2 new bits in the last 20 years. Sorry to hear Sydney City closed down, I used to buy stuff from them years ago.

Mines probably not as eratic. Just running hot.

I've got an 06 in oz that's been running hot too for a while, my turned out to be blocked radiator fins, built up over years.

I was tempted to de-link too but gradually grew to love the stock brakes.

What did they break?

These are pretty good at finding engine noises, otherwise put the handle of a screwdriver in your ear and press the tip to the suspect area of the engine. My first bb had a noisey clutch, nothing to worry about. https://www.tradetools.com/product-range/auto-and-mechanics-tools/automotive-specialty/toledo-stethoscope?gclid=CjwKCAiA17P9BRB2EiwAMvwNyEN7xCnbEogH6ldJA-LYZ1jW7sAV1RZZg4EdidzXfB_xcmsZS4bqtxoCXgsQAvD_BwE

I've got them on all my bikes, doubles the usual life of the chains for me so pays for itself pretty easy and hassle free. I use the scott oil, i tried a few different trani fluids but couldn't seem to get the right consistency and went back to scott.

+1 I was trying to say that above, much better explanation. Definitely go tubes, brake fluid eats paint. And you can see the colour of the fluid easier. For the clutch have to put a board under left side of centre stand to get resevour level with bars full lock to the right.

More than enough, dot 3 or 4 good. Stay away from dot 5.

If I really stomp on mine I can lock the back wheel.

So really old fluid, they recomment changing every 2 years, it absorbes moisture. First I'd flush the system. I like to syringe everything out of the masters and replace, replace cap on resevoir then open nipple with a tube on it, gently squeeze lever and tighten nipple while lever compressed. Or just open nipple and let it bleed itself, check back every 10 minutes and top up resevoir. Can't recall servicing the pins, it's been a while and memory failing But if you get someone to press on brake pedal while you hold the caliper you should feel a tiny amount of movement. Anyway while bleeding and squeezing pedal you should get an idea if any of the pistons are seized.

Rear caliper only has a piston on one side so caliper has to slide on pins when activated, so it could be this action that's jamming or piston inside caliper or master. Agree with above, the front is only a small percentage transfer.