paul99xx

What did they break?

These are pretty good at finding engine noises, otherwise put the handle of a screwdriver in your ear and press the tip to the suspect area of the engine. My first bb had a noisey clutch, nothing to worry about. https://www.tradetools.com/product-range/auto-and-mechanics-tools/automotive-specialty/toledo-stethoscope?gclid=CjwKCAiA17P9BRB2EiwAMvwNyEN7xCnbEogH6ldJA-LYZ1jW7sAV1RZZg4EdidzXfB_xcmsZS4bqtxoCXgsQAvD_BwE

I've got them on all my bikes, doubles the usual life of the chains for me so pays for itself pretty easy and hassle free. I use the scott oil, i tried a few different trani fluids but couldn't seem to get the right consistency and went back to scott.

+1 I was trying to say that above, much better explanation. Definitely go tubes, brake fluid eats paint. And you can see the colour of the fluid easier. For the clutch have to put a board under left side of centre stand to get resevour level with bars full lock to the right.

More than enough, dot 3 or 4 good. Stay away from dot 5.

If I really stomp on mine I can lock the back wheel.

So really old fluid, they recomment changing every 2 years, it absorbes moisture. First I'd flush the system. I like to syringe everything out of the masters and replace, replace cap on resevoir then open nipple with a tube on it, gently squeeze lever and tighten nipple while lever compressed. Or just open nipple and let it bleed itself, check back every 10 minutes and top up resevoir. Can't recall servicing the pins, it's been a while and memory failing But if you get someone to press on brake pedal while you hold the caliper you should feel a tiny amount of movement. Anyway while bleed

Rear caliper only has a piston on one side so caliper has to slide on pins when activated, so it could be this action that's jamming or piston inside caliper or master. Agree with above, the front is only a small percentage transfer.

Should be enough to hold you on a hill, how long since the fluid was changed? Sounds like something might be sticking, caliper or a piston. I'd start with flushing the system. Even with glazed pads there should be enough to hold it on a hill.

You shouldn't need to remove the forks to check if they're straight, just loosen the clamps and see if they turn in the clamps. Good luck with your project.

Oops it's glue, plenty on youtube if you search hail damage repair.

I'd buy it for the right price regardless of whether they can be fixed. But pretty sure theres some tech available to uses a suction cup to pop them out. No doubt amazon will have them.

I tried auto tranny fluid, after readying that's what the scottoiler stuff is but wasn't happy with it, so I went back to the red scottoiler oil.

Scottoiler easily the best way to go, non stick so doesn't turn into grinding paste, cleans the chain as you go, lubes regardless of whether you can be bothered or not Just top up every now and then. I had the same thing with a chain, cleaned it with kero, lubed, was fine after that.

You have to watch out for friction modifiers, they may make your clutch slip. Apparently in some cases you can get away with it. If you want a long read - https://www.ducati.ms/forums/80-hall-wisdom/74198-case-using-mobil-1-15w-50-automobile-oil-motorcycle.html