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Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/05/2024 in all areas

  1. I got this bike on trade recently and thought it might be of interest to someone here for a wives bike or entry rider. 2004 CB600F (naked bike). Yellow in color - 8k original miles. All stock (well - after market front signals and a hand chopped mud flap out back) and damn near flawless with recent/new-ish rubber. Clean title etc. Asking $2999 at the shop but if someone from here wanted it I'd make a deal in the $2k ish range. Idk why - its just strikes me as too nice for a local squid to stunt it Edit: Pics to follow and located at my store in Idaho Falls ID
    4 points
  2. I never had the 390 out there, but expect it would be fantastic for a non-aggressive, long ride.
    1 point
  3. LOL, right? My jets are 150 and 17.5 with the idle screw 3.5 out. One guy fighting starting issues has 140 and 30 at 1 turn out, as delivered. WTF bike is that for? XRs only did ship mine with the pump adjusted to the absolute minimum level, but it ran. They say the bike is perky enough to not need the "common" setting of 1/8" clearance to the pump rod. They shipped it with like half an inch or whatever is maximum. About half the throttle stroke with no pump. Maybe I should go back and try it their way. This is a clear win for advanced FI or electric bikes. It would be nice to push a button on the bars and have a different acceleration curve. I've gotten pretty spoiled by that. Dunno, it's the high side versus low side I think about. Remember my post about CR500 airlines? Oh yeah, it's amazing that so far this bike is less friendly than the CR500. I agree with your overview of the changes with throttle. Towards the end of my ride time I was trying throttle hits with mild roosting, and the bike seems to prefer it over having actual traction. And you think you're lugging it, and the fucker just spins the tire no matter what. Below idle in second gear? Max torque, here you go, good luck.
    1 point
  4. LOL. I've talked to a few people who have "stock" Mikuni pumpers, whatever they ship from the factory I guess. It cost me $50 extra to get one from XRs only with the adapter ring preinstalled, and jetted for this bike. Clearly, this was well worth it, the other people are fighting with jets and leaks using some shitty Chinese adapter.
    1 point
  5. I asked him about the build and he sent me this: ,it is a 98 xx blackbird,my mechanic build it for me,the tail is its own but cutten and rebuild it,the oil cooler is lower and behind the water cooler,the headlight I don't remember from what it is,the fork from cbr1000 rr the steering wheel from Ducati i don't know the model ,the rims from rr and the rear fender from BMW GS.
    1 point
  6. Strange. I didn't have much trouble at all when I did my CL-350 tires, though it was way easier than my real bikes. I don't know about your R5 but new replacement parts like your brake lever were available for my CL and wasn't priced too high.
    1 point
  7. The beads were super easy to break, they damn near broke on their own. Probably because they're tube type wheels so they don't 'need' the bead retaining bump that most tubeless wheels have. Zipties were a fail. The recess in these wheels barely accommodates one bead, both together is an absolute no go so I cut the ties off and went traditional. Holy fuck that was a battle. Even when there was only about a foot of tire bead under the wheel I still had to use tools to keep prying to get it the rest of the way off, insane. I got the front tire off and pondered how much worse the rear would probably be, at that point I said fuck it and took them to a shop, but the guy was out. After waiting for over 1/2 hour I went back home and figured I'd just work on de-rusting the rear wheel. It would be easiest to work on it mounted to the forks, but it would't fit with the tire on so I decided to have a go at removing it, way worse than the front. I was finally able to get one spoonful of bead pried over the wheel, no way to get another in. I held it and used a die grinder to cut through the tire bead, then it was only a 'normal' battle of stretching it over the wheel. The rear rim was super rusty, some of the chrome is gone, but it cleaned up reasonably well. I didn't take photos of the wheel, but here's the rear brake lever. I had already done the ends when I thought to take the before photo. If I decide to make it better I'll dab some chrome paint on the bare spots to hide them better, but it's vastly improved. It took about 5 minutes, most of the work was done with a fine wire wheel on the bench grinder. I wish I'd tried wire wheels sooner, it does a great job and does't scratch up the chrome as long as it's fine wire. I used two different ones on the rear rim being driven by a cordless drill and die grinder. I had a small one that was able to fit between the spokes fairly well. I took a quick stab at mounting the front tire, fuck that, they're both going to a shop with a machine.
    1 point
  8. I have one of those. Would be a lot handier with an aluminum tank. They work better on car tires than bike tires. I never got the concept behind the zip ties. But I've had enough trouble getting beads to seat that I have multiple strategies.
    1 point
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