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My Gladiator had cargo rails and the typical sliding anchor points. Super useful. It was very heavy and could be used to tie down anything, load limits were realistically nearly as good as solid tie down loops. So I decided to get a similar system for the Rivian, and after looking at so many options, went with generic aircraft L-track. It seems lighter than the track in some trucks, but people seem to love it. Anyone have this? Experiences? Tips? The bed has a series of existing threaded holes intended for mounting tie-downs or MOLLE panels. I'll use those, and if needed, some spacers to attach the rails. They are said to be solid. My routine usage will be random small shit with light straps (Ron Straps, bungees) and occasional motorcycle loading with ratchet straps. I got these for more heavy duty use and flexibility. And these for casual hanging stuff, low load needs. Edit to add: I got four tracks. One for each side up high, and two across the front. This is how the factory mount holes are set up. I have seen some motorcycle chocks that can go into the front rails, not sure if I would want them or not.

They have qualified immunity.

Back in 1978 on I-70 at night I hit a trailer truck tire/wheel that had just came off a truck, taking out the spoiler, sway bar and oil pan. He had already pulled over. The truckers insurance paid for it.

I’m sure it’s state and case specific. My road has some bad potholes. Yeah, you should slow down and try to avoid them, but we’ve filed requests with VDOT to have them come out and AT THE VERY LEAST patch the bigger ones. Nothing has happened. If they had water in them, it would be easy to just think they are a puddle. If there’s an accident or a vehicle get damaged by hitting one, I’d hope there would be a case against VDOT for malfeasance. Once notified of a road hazard, doing nothing should be actionable once so much time passes. Hell, a bad pothole close to me was patched by the guy who lives next to it…filled it with concrete on his own initiative. What the fuck are we paying taxes for?

So I should try that?

Food point. Nearest Lowes is around 90 miles from my house. Mike, IcePrick, recently had good luck with a mail in return.

Doesn't Lowe's do Craftsman now? I have a few to swap and just haven't gotten around to it.

I've heard of people stacking two spacers to solve the problem.

...and you hit it, you're at fault. So the claim is only partially covered and your rates may increase? I dial non-emergency. About twice a month there's something laying in a lane on the 4-lane big enough to damage most vehicles. ...probably kill a biker. I think a portion of it is from scrap haulers heading south. North and southbound lanes both get the road gators. 'Key Findings Between 2011-2014, road debris was a factor in a total of more than 200,000 police-reported crashes Resulted in a total of approximately 39,000 injuries and 500 deaths Compared to crashes that did not involve debris, debris-related crashes were approximately 4 times as likely to occur on Interstate highways Nearly 37 percent of all deaths in road debris crashes resulted from the driver swerving to avoid hitting an object About two-thirds of debris-related crashes are the result of items falling from a vehicle due to improper maintenance and unsecured loads. The most common types of vehicle debris are: Parts becoming detached from a vehicle (tires, wheels, etc.) and falling onto the roadway Unsecured cargo like furniture, appliances and other items falling onto the roadway Tow trailers becoming separated and hitting another vehicle or landing on the roadway More than one in three crashes involving debris occur between 10:00 a.m. and 3:59 p.m., a time when many people are on the road hauling or moving heavy items like furniture or construction equipment" https://aaafoundation.org/prevalence-motor-vehicle-crashes-involving-road-debris-united-states-2011-2014/

Well, I'd definitely try O2 spacers. It is just couple bucks.

I used an old Craftsman....been doing this for years....was easier when I could take the cracked ones in for their lifetime replacement.

Not from OEM, but Denso's, which I believe is what Nissan sells. No emissions test here. Just want to prevent that false code.

ECUs are touchy about O2 replacement sensors. Aftermarket is hit or miss. Did you get OEMs? As the rest of your post, spacers are practically free, so it is just labor, although it could be a bitch on some cars. Nothing to lose, just try it. We do have emission test in Illinois. Once every two years. OBD only. No visual or sniffer. One of the cats in my Volvo is weak, I would get check engine light. Installed spacers( inline six, two downstream cats), it cured CAT codes, although now sometimes lean condition code pops up, but only if you do 80 mph or better for more than 15 minutes or so. City driving it will disappear. So you know what not to do before testing. 😆 As a matter of fact I passed emission test today. 211 k miles. Xc70 3.2 atmo. Original cats and sensors. Getting another new to me XC70 with 45 k miles. Turbo inline 5.

Surprised I haven't heard of this thing before. Modern vehicles usually have one O2 sensor before the CAT, and one after. The first is for correcting fuel mixture, and the second is just for making sure the CAT is working properly. Is that correct? If so, then this little device let's you use a cheap replacement CAT that may or may not be up to factory specs? Because that is pretty much what I did (replaced all 4 O2 sensors as well), and the computer don't like it (well, it did for a week, or so). No way I'm spending $3K for CAT's on a $7K truck.

Well, not exactly. The higher flow is fooling the O2 sensor and making it think something is out of order (it sort of is). The spacer reduces the sensor's perceived flow and puts it back in normal range.

https://www.racdyn-usa.com/CTGY/EXHAUSTACCESSORIES.html This was a lot cheaper than the next alternative, the ECU flash/tune. But the flash would supposedly do wonders for performance, which I am not particularly interested in improving. I can clear the sensor light but it only lasts about a day.

It was installed by the shop that installed the mini-cat. I can only assume they knew what they were doing. As time goes on, I get less and less impressed by them. I was in their first cohort of customers and there has been a shift in employee attitudes. I had never had anyone else but me work on the car but just do not have the time anymore. But there are some pretty exotic cars there from time to time. Mine is extremely dowdy next to a lot of them.

Btw, curious in what position RXX installed that thing. Less exhaust gasses getting there, the better, I guess.

Yes, the idea is to keep the tip of O2 sensor out of exhaust steam. Usually it works, at least on older generation vehicles.

I want to know what brand of 14mm socket you have that will handle a 1/2" impact gun without splitting. ??????

So, let me get this straight. This little O2 bung device is supposed to fool your O2 sensor into believing the catalytic convertor is doing it's job properly? I put new aftermarket cats on my son's Frontier pickup, and after a few months starting getting the same "cat efficiency code, bank 1) that I got when the original went bad. Would be cool, if this little device fixed the check engine light, as in "let it show for more serious problems".

Yea, that makes sense. Special washer.

The threads on the plugs and heads would have to be precisely placed, unlikely to happen. According to a mechanic that was talking about it, the difference between the OEM NGK and the aftermarket NGK is that the washer is different so it crushes to a different height. In his example of 1 I saw that the OEM did land in the right area vs. aftermarket, but in the comments a few people said they bought OEM that didn't index right and aftermarket that did so it appears to be a bit of a crapshoot. The install instructions were "torque to XX, then up to XX if needed for better indexing". If the factory plug has a more compliant washer then it could allow for more turning with less torque increase, but that seems a bit far fetched also.