superhawk996

My understanding is that all, or at least the vast majority, of leather car seats have a polyurethane coating. I haven't researched it, but it was talked about on a few videos I watched about seat restoration and detailing products.

If it's empty you'll want to make sure it's leak free before investing in r12, and make sure you get enough because it'll take at least two, probably more. There should be a sticker showing how much it takes.

I've got a 30 pounder that I 'should' sell. But I can't replace it....but I don't need it. Conundrum. Maybe I should just blast it into the air to help reduce global warming.

Techron is proven with fuel injectors and combustion chambers, I assume it would also help clean carbs, but I haven't tested or read about it.

While I don't like the OEM media delete, I do like that you've added a lot of additional filter media. Way better filtration than a K&N, probably under 1 micron!

If the others become a dead end, I'll adopt it if the shipping isn't crazy.

Or not enough. Take another hit and report back tomorrow.

I don't quite understand what you're asking, but I'll try to answer anyway. The Yosh has no cylinder pairing like the stock headers do, it's 4 pipes into one all together. The stock ones pair the 4 cylinders down to 2 pipes, then those pair into one. It's a 4 into 2 into 1, instead of the Yosh's 4 into one. The stock is actually 4 into 2 into 1 into 2, but the last separation means nothing as far as the merging effects are concerned. It could stay 1 at the end or split into any number of pipes without directly changing what happened at the final merge. Pairing theoretically adds more midrange than a 4 into 1, and how the cylinders are paired also changes that curve, as observed in early vs late model pairing. I'm pretty sure the Yosh has larger diameter primaries which also theoretically reduces low end power. The total design of a header can break the rules/theories that are generally applied to headers. My recollection of my butt dyno test was that the Yosh lost a bit of power below 4k, about equal from 4-6K then the Yosh increasingly ran away. See also- tri Y headers for V-8s. They pair somewhat like the stock Bird headers do and sellers claim a torque gain. Most tri Y's are short tube which are rarely much better than an iron manifold no matter how the tubes are merged. I also have an aftermarket Bird header I took off of Cecome's bike, now my bike, that is fucking garbage. Its only redeeming qualities are that it's lighter than stock and a 100% effective anti-wheelie device. He brought me his bike to diagnose/fix his low power problem, as soon as I saw the header I was pretty sure it was the problem. I put on a stocker I had with his Two Bros cans and it came alive.

I was quite surprised with the power gain of this system over stock. I expected a slight shift in the power curve, loosing a bit down low and gaining a little up top, but didn't expect it to be very noticeable. If it lost any at the low end it was minimal, the gain was impressive, and I didn't tune for it. And it's way lighter. As much as I like performance, I prefer the look and sound of dual so I sold the Yosh with my first '97.

They might pull good money on Ebay. I've never checked sold prices, but people ask a fair bit for them.

I would use only the finest Chinesium tubing stated as being super strong. 2" square tubing should be enough, but they sell couplers for 3" so I might go the overkill route just to feel good about it.

I can think of two easy DIY bolt-on extensions that won't require modding the trailer. A straight square tube from the front of the frame extending under the coupler as far as needed, or a T attached to the V section of the tongue and extending forward past the coupler. The front part of either could be attached to the existing coupler by installing a ball on it, the rear could be U-bolted or through bolted with nuts.

A bed extender would solve the bike hauling, but not allow the trailer unless you did an extended hitch which is gonna suck for weight distribution. One option would be to extend the trailer's tongue, that would allow tailgate down while reducing tongue weight, and allow for using the distribution hitch if wanted. I bet it wouldn't take much to create a "bolt on" solution rather than doing a permanent tongue mod.

If the tailgate can be removed and the bike will fit diagonally, that would let you tow the trailer. Or maybe with the tailgate partially open.

A carrier would probably be easiest and possibly most aerodynamic if it's low enough, but probably limited to one unless you make something. To carry both I'd say bed, or maybe the zero in the bed and XR on a carrier.