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redxxrdr last won the day on October 11 2020

redxxrdr had the most liked content!


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About redxxrdr

  • Birthday 04/09/1959

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    87 vf700c, 2001 SV650

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    Sumner, GA
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    bikes,kids,planes,all toys.

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  1. My rake is that it is not. 3 phase of windings. Connected to ground at one end. The other end of each connected to a series circuit, that opens the current path. Power equals current × voltage. Remove current, or voltage, and you have no power to consume. Shunt regulators are simple devices, scaled to the loads required. We screw up by reducing the loads with lower wattage lamps, or higher wattage heated gear. Regulator technology has changed in the 20+ years since the XX was designed.
  2. You said that it sounded like it was running dry. My 01, 50 plus K miles developed a clogged filter. I replaces it, and had no more running or starting problems.
  3. There are many devices out there that do the same thing. I have used 1/4 inch rope looped like the tool around the tire. A screwdriver is the used as a windliss. I have used cooking spray for lubricant. It won't hurt the rubber, a will dry to non slip in a day or so.
  4. Mike, I would definitely try a fill if the jack is a old pre China model. Oscar is right that you should be careful with it. And don't get under anything that you have lifted with it. A good practice for any jack.
  5. I was joking about my changing size as well. An older response from Rick at Cogent was that a OEM was a poor choice. It required a nitrogen fill fitting, and one of the internals was built in a way that it could not be rebuilt. Now that was a 6 year old thread, I'm going to ask if things have changed. Rick set my fork rebuild for my size back when. They gave a noticeable ride difference. But the bike still hobby horses on certain roads. My problem is that my skills aren't good enough to know a good ride from a great ride. 10 to 15 years ago, I thought that I needed full adjustable everything. Now I rarely do pillion, or track days. I hope to find a economical shock, set by a good tuner for my size. Why have all the extra adjustments, if I am not capable to use them. I do know that a undersized OEM at 60k miles could be better. I plan to call a few places next week and ask. Our XX is pretty old now. But second generation owners are starting to ask the same questions that we asked originally. I hope that there are improved products now. And yes, the good tuners can set the shock to the correct response for your size and riding style. You just can't fine tune like the big boys. I know that I could never set SAG correctly at 240 lbs and the stock spring.
  6. Thanks Bill. I've actually gotten to 180 without gear. 😀 I remember Rick saying that the OEM shock was not the best to rebuild do some internals that can't be replaced. DMr shows a shock without remote in the $700.00 range. I have a couple other vendors that were recommended to check out. My research found that I had asked a lot of the same questions before. At that time, I was focusing on shocks with remotes. Life and riding has changed, so the less costly option looks better now. I even found a thread with Big Dave asking the same questions. I should have had Chris pull Dave's shock after his off. We had called dibs. I appreciate the feedback.
  7. Did you bounce the suspension a few times before tightening the pinch bolts. I have read that you can get binding if you don't.
  8. Is that what we called a Sprint here in the States? 250 CC single cylinder. The cylinder stuck forward, and often hit anything just behind the front wheel. If so, then I spent a few years of my youth abusing and repairing one. I never figured out the compression release, and went over the handle bars many times trying to start it. Youth and stupidity caused me many a bruise. But it was a fun ride back in the day.
  9. Yes I also see that Traxion, and Cognet have products. Plus shocks from wilbees, olins,penske, hyperpro (sp). And others are available. I have reached out privately to some members who race to get their thoughts. My knowledge is not good enough to know what is a good product / vendor or not. I remember that using rebuilt 954 and the like shocks were marginal. Small shock, easier to overwhelm. My POS SV came with a busa shock. A bigger shock that is too small because of the differences. In linkage. This is one reason why I keep looking at suspension shop. Pay for knowledge. DMr and Cogent are on the top of my list. I found a price list from DMr. I have had good results from Cogent. The challenge is finding products for a 20 year old bike, that I choose to afford.
  10. Does anyone remember??? There was a suspension tuner using a modified 954 shock as a starting point. They were building a custom shock body since 954 were impossible to find. It wasn't Cogent, and internet search found one of Eric's threads. Not supported anymore. Does anyone remember the company name??
  11. 😄😄 I thought that I was the only one with that problem. I found one of the kids bikes in the garage last week. Missing it for at least 10 years
  12. Your weight might be below the sweet spot that most bikes are suspended for. Great for you. I understand finances. I have needed a shock, for almost 20 years. $1000.00 hurts. Keep posting your progress. It helps to remind me that the bird ages gracefully, but it does age.
  13. Do you have a old fashioned trouble light? I spent an embarring amount of time chasing a fried relay contact with a meter. Voltage through, no current. I use a trouble light (bulb in series with a jumper) on my old VW. Cheap, and will show high impedance connections that meters will lie about.
  14. The nice thing about a HID conversion is that there is no cutting. The OEM low beam bulb will go back in the socket by removing the windshield and coming in through the top. I carry a replacement HID bulb on long trips. Plus the HID tend to flicker and hard start before a hard failure.
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