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1997 hydrolocked? Not. Update on latest post


Dotetcher

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Getting the bird out of the shed. Put the battery in and hit the ignition.  Always started right up in the past. Very partial turnover then nothing. Hit the starter and it sounds like its engaging but motor does not turn over. I don't want to fuck anything up. Never dealt with this before. What do I do. 1997 carbed bird. TIA

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You could remove the crank-end plug, and see if it will rotate backwards half a turn, or so.  If it does and then stops again, pull the plugs like Mike said, and re-evaluate.

 

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I'm sure Joe has 15 or 20 motors in stock, he'll cut you a deal 🤣

Brother, when my FPR went out I had fuel up to the bottom of the throttle body blades and it didn't hurt my motor.  Roll it outside, pull the plastics, plugs, tarp it up, and crank up Old Faithful and see how high the fuel shoots in the air 😁  Don't do what I did and do that in the shop where it hit the ceiling.

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If the plugs didn't actually fire, you may be okay. I do like Mike said pull the plugs out. Got to hit the starter again. If there's any liquid in there it should get pushed out. Leave the kill switch off

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7 hours ago, Furbird said:

I'm sure Joe has 15 or 20 motors in stock, he'll cut you a deal 🤣

Brother, when my FPR went out I had fuel up to the bottom of the throttle body blades and it didn't hurt my motor.  Roll it outside, pull the plastics, plugs, tarp it up, and crank up Old Faithful and see how high the fuel shoots in the air 😁  Don't do what I did and do that in the shop where it hit the ceiling.


Does a carb bird have an FPR? I don’t recall my carb bikes having one, just my FI birds. I immediately thought FPR when he mentioned hydro locked. Been there with a VFR and had a bird with a case full of super unleaded.

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1 hour ago, TOXXIC said:

Does a carb bird have an FPR?

No, that's an EFI only thing.

 

The carbed bikes could become flooded due to a failed fuel shut-off valve.  Hasn't happened to mine...and I might have just summoned Beatlejuice.

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Actually, I just realized that mine can't because I've by-passed the vacuum line.  Fuck you beetlejuice!

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4 hours ago, superhawk996 said:

The carbed bikes could become flooded due to a failed fuel shut-off valve. 

But only if a needle valve stuck open.  Thinking of all the bikes that didn't have a vacuum shut off and many people didn't close the manual valve.

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3 hours ago, blackhawkxx said:

But only if a needle valve stuck open.  Thinking of all the bikes that didn't have a vacuum shut off and many people didn't close the manual valve.

If/when the diaphragm goes bad gas can go through the vacuum hose straight into the intake port.

 

A bad float valve 'should' send the excess gas out of the overflow onto the ground.

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4 hours ago, superhawk996 said:

If/when the diaphragm goes bad gas can go through the vacuum hose straight into the intake port.

 

A bad float valve 'should' send the excess gas out of the overflow onto the ground.

Right, forgot about that.  

Quote

Actually, I just realized that mine can't because I've by-passed the vacuum line. 

So did you remove the the diaphragm?

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10 minutes ago, blackhawkxx said:

So did you remove the the diaphragm?

No, the valve is in tact and normal.  I added a piece of vacuum hose, the new and original hoses connect to eachother with a barb fitting just below the fairing on the left side.  Since the bike sits a lot I wanted an easy way to drain the carbs.  Before parking it I disconnect the hose which shuts off the fuel flow so I can run the carbs dry.  When I want to start it again I suck on the hose connected to the diaphragm to prime the carbs instead of cranking a long time.  Then I reconnect the hoses and fire it up.

 

If the diaphragm were to fail while parked it would empty the tank onto the ground instead of into the engine.  I originally planed to use a tiny ball valve, and as often happens I couldn't find it when I wanted it so I just did the barb fitting as a temporary fix...about a year ago.

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27 minutes ago, superhawk996 said:

No, the valve is in tact and normal.  I added a piece of vacuum hose, the new and original hoses connect to eachother with a barb fitting just below the fairing on the left side.  Since the bike sits a lot I wanted an easy way to drain the carbs.  Before parking it I disconnect the hose which shuts off the fuel flow so I can run the carbs dry.  When I want to start it again I suck on the hose connected to the diaphragm to prime the carbs instead of cranking a long time.  Then I reconnect the hoses and fire it up.

 

If the diaphragm were to fail while parked it would empty the tank onto the ground instead of into the engine.  I originally planed to use a tiny ball valve, and as often happens I couldn't find it when I wanted it so I just did the barb fitting as a temporary fix...about a year ago.

This is the bike I have seen parked in front of your living room  fireplace?   🔥

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On 4/17/2024 at 2:47 PM, Dotetcher said:

Right or left? While sitting on bike. Facing forward. :)

I think right side. 

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7 hours ago, blackhawkxx said:

This is the bike I have seen parked in front of your living room  fireplace?   🔥

How else am I to stoke the fire?!?!

 

But no, this is a proper Blackbird, the original fastest bike in the world, not that white thing with fuel infection.  Which was beautiful.  This one's living outside for now, but I'm glad you mentioned that because I've been considering moving it indoors.

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So while I'm figuring out how to update the topic title I'll give an update. First thing I did was check oil level. That was fine so second guessing my original guess on why engine not turning over. Next thing was to put up on center stand, put bike in 5th and try to rotate wheel backwards (Thanks Joe). Moved a little bit so I thought I would try hitting the starter again. Bike turned over! Sweet! Not hydrolocked. Flat spot in starter? Who knows. I am dealing with a fuel delivery issue though because bike will not start. Catches on full choke but will not stay running. Only firing a bit while starter engaged and choke on. End of vacuum hose was dry and split so trimmed it and reconnected. Still same. Is there a way to test the valve/diaphragm to see if it works? What do I need to apply enough vacuum to see if the diaphragm is still good. My lips? :)

 

As usual thank you all for your help.

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  • Dotetcher changed the title to 1997 hydrolocked? Not. Update on latest post
2 minutes ago, Dotetcher said:

Also does anyone know how much vacuum is needed to activate diaphragm. I have a mighty vac and can rig something up to test the valve.

Nevermind. Just tested. Works well. On to the next thing. Replacing vacuum line with new and trying again.

 

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