superhawk996 Posted January 16 Author Share Posted January 16 6 minutes ago, SwampNut said: With stinky vehicles in the past I've found that just a few inches of exhaust extension can make a huge difference. I was going to add that and forgot. I've done it and it works. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SwampNut Posted January 16 Share Posted January 16 In one extreme case I got flexible exhaust tubing and had around a 1-foot "snorkel" up the side. You just need to find the actual flowing air, not the back pressure area. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superhawk996 Posted January 16 Author Share Posted January 16 A photo of the swollen grommet. I tried to insert it last night when I posted about it, but it wouldn't transfer to my computer and I didn't possess the fucks to post from my phone. The swollen one was the same size as the one in the valve cover. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superhawk996 Posted January 16 Author Share Posted January 16 3 hours ago, IcePrick said: If you had good results, yeah, I'd love to replicate them. I used 3/8" OD around the perimeter and 5/16" along the tops of the barn doors. The doors take a bit of velocity or the weight of your hand pushing to latch. They're pretty light for their size so they don't pack much energy. The hatch used to take a bit of a slam to fully latch, 'till I lubed the latches. The plastic coating on my latches is gone, that makes closing a bit harder. It'll also keep them from latching as tightly as they should. The lube I used: https://3inone.com/product/3-in-one-lock-dry-lube/ Writing this made me realize that I hadn't lubed the door latches, they're better now. The left door still takes a little more to close than I think it would from new, but the right seems perfect. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superhawk996 Posted January 17 Author Share Posted January 17 The grommet has begun shrinking. The ID was down about .035" after about a day out of the soak. Probably has about 1/4" to go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackhawkxx Posted January 17 Share Posted January 17 19 hours ago, superhawk996 said: With stinky vehicles in the past I've found that just a few inches of exhaust extension can make a huge difference. 2 or 3 inches can also make a big difference in exhaust sound in the vehicle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SwampNut Posted January 17 Share Posted January 17 And in the bedroom. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superhawk996 Posted January 17 Author Share Posted January 17 The two examples above describe how a few extra inches of pipe can have inverse reactions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superhawk996 Posted January 17 Author Share Posted January 17 This morning the grommet had shrunk by about .040" on the ID, still way too big, but it was pliable enough that I was able to force it into place. Since it was so hardened removing it was extremely difficult. The other one was even more stubborn and the breather/elbow that plugs into it was on the verge of breaking so I quit trying. I've been brushing oil onto it here & there to see if that'll soften it enough to allow removal for a soak. These parts are still available and they're fairly cheap, but I've had a few others that weren't so it's a good experiment that might be useful in the future. I put the carb/airbox boots on the R5 yesterday. Both ends fit snugly and they were pliable enough to install without much hassle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superhawk996 Posted January 24 Author Share Posted January 24 Another rubber test, and it was a fail. It's a VTEC solenoid gasket off a 2009 Honda with almost 300k, I assume it's original. It was hard and brittle, now it's soft and brittle, and enlarged. I had no use for it, already replaced it, just testing. Both of those pieces were the same size, the shorter fatter piece was soaked. I don't know if the different reactions between this and the R5's carb boots are because of the material or because of the environment each lived in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackhawkxx Posted January 24 Share Posted January 24 Maybe if it starts out brittle it stays brittle? I'm guessing the material difference is the difference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XXitanium Posted January 24 Share Posted January 24 Yeah, was it rubber, or low durometer PVC or some such? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fizzy Posted January 24 Share Posted January 24 On 1/16/2024 at 2:42 AM, XXitanium said: Nobody can answer my question. Do you have an extra one of those later on that you could soften up and see how long it stays? Pliable? Apparently it's a big mystery. 1+ year ago I did a wintergreen job on a set of BB carb boots. 1 part wintergreen oil to 4 parts 99.9% isopropyl alcohol. Boots were rock hard, lets call that 0% as new. 2-3 week soak until they reached a point where they weren't getting any softer. I'd say 50-60% as new. Also, they were a very very loose fit on the carbs. Rinsed and let air dry for 2-3 weeks, where they eventually shrank back to size. Covered with red rubber grease and put into zip lock bag. Just checked and they are somewhat hard again. I'd say 15-25% as new.....just about good enough to reuse in a pinch. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackhawkxx Posted January 25 Share Posted January 25 3 hours ago, fizzy said: Covered with red rubber grease Is that silicone grease? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fizzy Posted January 25 Share Posted January 25 10 hours ago, blackhawkxx said: Is that silicone grease? CASTROL RED RUBBER GREASE 50 gram, BRAKE CYLINDERS, SEALS, O RINGS | eBay 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superhawk996 Posted January 27 Author Share Posted January 27 On 1/24/2024 at 3:08 AM, blackhawkxx said: Maybe if it starts out brittle it stays brittle? I'm guessing the material difference is the difference. Just to be clear; the gasket didn't start out brittle, it became brittle in use. When new it acts like a common O-ring. I think it got a little less brittle from the soak, but hard to say since it became much more flexible. Maybe it technically became less brittle because it can bend much farther before breaking, but it doesn't seem to take much more effort to break it. The material type and its environment in service are both likely to make a difference in how well they 'rejuvenate'. The carb boots get mild heat, gas vapor when parked, gas spray/mist while running, and no oil unless there's a spill or an oiled air filter. The grommet and gasket I did get lots more heat and constant oil exposure in use. I assume the gasket is nitrile like most O-rings, maybe the grommet also. No clue what the boots are made of. There's also a difference in manufacturing processes and chemistry between the 52 year old boots and the much newer car parts I did. Plus there are lots of different plasticizers so even if you know the part is nitrile rubber, it could be different from another nitrile part. I'm slightly tempted to build something to soak the tires, decent chance they're original. Unfortunately, it would be a big waste of money and time since they couldn't be trusted no matter what they did. Every time I'm tempted to crank up the speed all I can think about is what'll happen if a tire shreds. But I do know that the back tire is good enough to get the front one off the ground. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superhawk996 Posted January 27 Author Share Posted January 27 On 1/24/2024 at 2:27 PM, fizzy said: 1+ year ago I did a wintergreen job on a set of BB carb boots. 1 part wintergreen oil to 4 parts 99.9% isopropyl alcohol. Boots were rock hard, lets call that 0% as new. 2-3 week soak until they reached a point where they weren't getting any softer. I'd say 50-60% as new. Also, they were a very very loose fit on the carbs. Rinsed and let air dry for 2-3 weeks, where they eventually shrank back to size. Covered with red rubber grease and put into zip lock bag. Just checked and they are somewhat hard again. I'd say 15-25% as new.....just about good enough to reuse in a pinch. Carb to cylinder boots, or carb to airbox? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackhawkxx Posted January 27 Share Posted January 27 5 hours ago, superhawk996 said: Just to be clear; the gasket didn't start out brittle, it became brittle in use. By starting out, I meant the start of this experiment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fizzy Posted January 27 Share Posted January 27 8 hours ago, superhawk996 said: Carb to cylinder boots, or carb to airbox? carb to cylinder. PS: The carb to airbox boots were perfect and needed no attention. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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