Removing shower diverter handle to change valve

[SwampNut]

I haven't googled it, figured there would be some experience here.  I got the setscrew out with some effort, but the handle won't come op, with pretty significant pulling.  The plumbing is actually moving, so there's some risk here.  Ideas on removing it?  I don't see a great way to get a lube/penetrant in there.  It's 18 years old, house lived with very hard water for the first six years of its life.  The hot setting is barely passing water, and it's fucking winter.

 

[XXitanium]

I ended up tearing out the whole unit accidentally. Years ago in the basement bathroom I reached on it and twisted it. There were no shut-offs behind the wall. I had to shut off the main water at the house shut off the hot water heater. I sent my family up to the in-laws for the night and I started cutting drywall and replacing the whole unit.

 

This video looks like it should just drop off of there.

 

https://youtu.be/y24kzjBOQvE?si=r2PZgtLjLJbA-j3Y

 

[superhawk996]

Take the shower head off so it can flow a lot of water and open the hot, that might be enough to clear out obstructions.  While it's possible that the valve has an issue, any obstructions before and after it can make the water less hot.  I've only dissected one to see how it worked and was somewhat surprised to see that it doesn't close/open the hot or cold side, it just shifts either side's restriction a bit.  If yours is like that and there's another restriction, the shifting becomes much less effective.

 

For the handle, try tapping inward and around it with a small hammer, maybe that'll break it loose.  The set screw hole should give a place to introduce penetrating oil.  Option 2, crank up the water heater.

[superhawk996]

And since you're playing plumber, might be a good time to flush the water heater if you haven't in a while.  I feel like I was hearing it make pop-crackle noises which I think indicates sediment, but the thought didn't cross over to my conscious brain 'till now so I'm not sure.

[SwampNut]

It makes sounds, but has been flushed regularly.  And once just two months ago.  This valve has been slowly flowing less and less hot water for months, maybe years, and it was just most noticeable now that the water is barely above solid state.  I'm not picturing how that could have come from an obstruction, and think it's a bad valve.

 

[DaveK]

Tap Tap Tap....wiggle wiggle wiggle.... Tap Tap Tap... wiggle wiggle wiggle.... OFF.

 

It's just all your caked up body gunk holding it on. 

 

I just kept tapping it with a hammer.  I think I also bent that little red straw thingy attached to the WD40 can or the stuff that loosens shit up and sprayed behind there too. 

[DaveK]

29 minutes ago, SwampNut said:

It makes sounds, but has been flushed regularly.  And once just two months ago.  This valve has been slowly flowing less and less hot water for months, maybe years, and it was just most noticeable now that the water is barely above solid state.  I'm not picturing how that could have come from an obstruction, and think it's a bad valve.

 

 

Ugh, the dreaded popping noise.  Means the bottom is layered with rust and sediment. 

[superhawk996]

1 hour ago, SwampNut said:

This valve has been slowly flowing less and less hot water for months, maybe years, and it was just most noticeable now that the water is barely above solid state.  I'm not picturing how that could have come from an obstruction, and think it's a bad valve.

Depends on the type of valve.  One of mine could leak between the hot and cold, they're separated by o-rings, but I don't think it would be enough to be problematic.  The one I had to modify to work with the restriction of the tankless heater can't degrade in that way, but the output temperature varies by flow rate whether the flow is changed before, in, or after the valve.

 

If you know which valve it takes, a photo of it might help know if it could be the cause.