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Building a stopemfromfloppin


SwampNut

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German word for brazier, I know.  The way that my top case attaches to the OEM plate leaves a lot of plastic hanging unsupported, so it bounces a lot.  I saw it when I swapped bikes and rode behind my own, and I noticed this on Joe's XX too.  Now I can't unsee it, and it bothers me a lot.  Perhaps unwarranted, or perhaps a real potential problem, particularly since I'll put 30 pounds of groceries in it and I think it's rated for like 15 pounds.  So....

 

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Yes, 1/4 is probably overkill, which is always the right amount of kill.

 

When it arrives, my inclination is to cut it on the table saw.  Lots of people say it's great for that.  I have a variety of blades, none of which are "perfect" for it, but I think close enough.  I think the 80 tooth (8 tpi, 10" blade) fine-cut is my best choice.

 

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1 hour ago, SwampNut said:

German word for brazier, I know.  The way that my top case attaches to the OEM plate leaves a lot of plastic hanging unsupported, so it bounces a lot.  I saw it when I swapped bikes and rode behind my own, and I noticed this on Joe's XX too.  Now I can't unsee it, and it bothers me a lot.  Perhaps unwarranted, or perhaps a real potential problem, particularly since I'll put 30 pounds of groceries in it and I think it's rated for like 15 pounds.  So....

 

7514.png

 

D79AB0D0-CB7B-41F7-8C2A-5E9D9D5B3DAF_1_102_o.jpeg

 

 

Yes, 1/4 is probably overkill, which is always the right amount of kill.

 

When it arrives, my inclination is to cut it on the table saw.  Lots of people say it's great for that.  I have a variety of blades, none of which are "perfect" for it, but I think close enough.  I think the 80 tooth (8 tpi, 10" blade) fine-cut is my best choice.

 

 

Plasma works on aluminum, it leaves an edge that looks like it was sandblasted with heavy grit.  

 

I'll be interested in hearing what your table saw does with it, I think metal saws run at much lower RPM and have blades designed for the task.  But we work with the tools we have (unless a new project is just an excuse for a new tool, it's not even a secret of mine anymore).

 

 

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17 minutes ago, IcePrick said:

Plasma works on aluminum, it leaves an edge that looks like it was sandblasted with heavy grit.  

 

My last attempt at using my small plasma on 1/4 aluminum was not good, because it loses heat so fast.  The edges of this will be somewhat visible so I'd like them to be clean, and also minimize hours of cleaning up edges.  I'm even thinking about edging it on my carbide-equipped jointer, but that's more sketchy, maybe.

 

Aluminum table saw blades have slightly different tooth shapes, and do run slower.  Yet, the only "don't do this" I could find about using a wood saw was from...the maker of aluminum saws...

 

So far I can't find anything saying I will die.

 

Edit to add:  It will be clamped on my Incra miter sled, and fingers far from the cut and the piece.

 

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1 minute ago, XXitanium said:

part of a heavy wing rack and they're normal assembly?

 

Sorry, no idea what that means.  I'm putting a plate between the OEM mount, and the Givi quick-release mount plate.  The Givi part is only about 1/3 attached to the bike plate, by the time you account for space for the backrest and the passenger's back armor.  It has to be way back.

 

Green is the plastic Givi plate, black is the bike and its steel plate.  Red is what I am making and adding to stop the plastic flex.

 

36CB8DD2-C568-4AE0-94E4-7DA643C7A2F8_1_102_a.jpeg

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3 hours ago, SwampNut said:

 

My last attempt at using my small plasma on 1/4 aluminum was not good, because it loses heat so fast.  The edges of this will be somewhat visible so I'd like them to be clean, and also minimize hours of cleaning up edges.  I'm even thinking about edging it on my carbide-equipped jointer, but that's more sketchy, maybe.

 

Aluminum table saw blades have slightly different tooth shapes, and do run slower.  Yet, the only "don't do this" I could find about using a wood saw was from...the maker of aluminum saws...

 

So far I can't find anything saying I will die.

 

Edit to add:  It will be clamped on my Incra miter sled, and fingers far from the cut and the piece.

 

I have cut a lot of aluminum on my old craftsmen table saw (I think it's older than me), including air-craft T-bar.  Use a carbide-tipped blade, feed very slow, and you'll be fine.  Dang sure wear safety glasses.  Those chips go everywhere.

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2 minutes ago, jon haney said:

Dang sure wear safety glasses.

 

You misspelled arc flash suit and Nomex.  But yeah, I'll have the full face grinder shield on.

 

I've run very small and thin aluminum before, this is just my first one of substance.

 

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Cutting aluminum on wood tools is easier and safer than cutting exotic hardwoods.  Aluminum doesn't have a grain, and doesn't warp as you cut it.  Totally drama free.

 

 

 

3M Cubitron disks on my RO sander worked well to clean up edges, but it certainly put a hurt on the disk faster than wood.  I don't know if it's wear or clogging, but I suspect that cutting aluminum oxide (self forming on the sheet) with aluminum oxide crystals on the disk is going to cause wear.  I wonder how a carbide disk would do.

 

9D9A96EE-C17D-43F5-A44D-42926325D2A3_1_105_c.jpeg

 

 

The Woodslicer blade on the bandsaw also cut so easily, and predictably, to make the curves and small cutouts for the tail light wiring.

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Oh...safety.

 

FULL FACE SHIELD!!!!

 

Hearing protection?  Nah.  It's oddly not loud.

 

Oh, and I used an 80 tooth 10" ultra fine cut blade, probably from Freud.  Probably a plywood blade, not sure (the markings come off when they get sharpened and I neglected to mark it permanently).

 

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A couple of very interesting things:

 

The vac gets all the aluminum sanding dust.  There was non at all on the floor under it.

 

The amount of bending that happens at the cut line is surprising.  At least, I think it's why there's a "shadow" in the sanding results all around the cut.  Not just the stamped edge, but the carbide-cut edges too.  It's even more visible in person.

 

2795C7B8-EF65-478B-B3E0-CAFE7294EA75_1_102_o.jpeg

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Thanks, I did mean to ask about critique on the timing.  My ADD kicks in with many videos, so I try to go fast myself when I make one.  Then I realize most people aren't like me and try to slow down and include more info.  Then I never know where I ended up, LOL.

 

2D4C2F00-2A94-4FD1-9B6B-FA3370195575_1_102_o.jpeg

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4 hours ago, SwampNut said:

Cutting aluminum on wood tools is easier and safer than cutting exotic hardwoods.  Aluminum doesn't have a grain, and doesn't warp as you cut it.  Totally drama free.

 

 

 

3M Cubitron disks on my RO sander worked well to clean up edges, but it certainly put a hurt on the disk faster than wood.  I don't know if it's wear or clogging, but I suspect that cutting aluminum oxide (self forming on the sheet) with aluminum oxide crystals on the disk is going to cause wear.  I wonder how a carbide disk would do.

 

9D9A96EE-C17D-43F5-A44D-42926325D2A3_1_105_c.jpeg

 

 

The Woodslicer blade on the bandsaw also cut so easily, and predictably, to make the curves and small cutouts for the tail light wiring.

I should not watch your videos.  I just get jealous of the tools you have.  I can probably afford them, but don't make enough stuff to justify the expense.

You could make that same plate with my tools, but it would be like having Windows 95 on your current computer,,,,,,,maybe.

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2 hours ago, SwampNut said:

I think I have a name for my YT channel, "10 Fingers (for now) Productions."

A good friend of mine and I joked about having a YT channel, and naming it "I'll tell you what!" (Say it with a southern drawl).  It would be like Roadkill meets the Red-Green show.

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4 hours ago, SwampNut said:

I think I have a name for my YT channel, "10 Fingers (for now) Productions."

Love it.

 

I think the reason the first cut got buggered is because you were pushing on both sides.  I think the cut gap closed right at the end 'pinching' the blade.  I'm guessing that it pulled the part on the right into the blade a bit, or flexed the blade into it.

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9 hours ago, superhawk996 said:

Love it.

 

I think the reason the first cut got buggered is because you were pushing on both sides.  I think the cut gap closed right at the end 'pinching' the blade.  I'm guessing that it pulled the part on the right into the blade a bit, or flexed the blade into it.

Yes, right at the end of the cut you can see the front edges come together.  

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4 hours ago, blackhawkxx said:

Yes, right at the end of the cut you can see the front edges come together.  

 

Rookie move, for fucking sure.  I am surprised at how fast those Cubitron disks eat metal in a plane RO sander, and cleaned it up.

 

I think my plate looks better than the OEM plate.  Smoother to the touch for sure.

 

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Also, these cheap little hook things are so useful for my bike usage, daily driver, groceries, errands, whatever.  

 

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