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Trailering and tying down bikes


Zero Knievel

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5 minutes ago, RXX said:


By the way, I put 1700 miles on the bike between last Wednesday and Monday. Road some great roads that I would have missed if I had a trailer. 

 

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Fucking awesome 👍😎

 

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Well, I hope the issue is finally solved.  Got the new rear strap system today.  I experimented before with the wheel chock, but double checked for this test.  Note that now the chock is set at the second to front hole.  It previously was set at the very last hole in the back.  This helps the bike remain stable when I’m not holding it…although for good measure I should always load/unload while parked on a level surface.
 

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Now my front ties are anchored to soft straps at the bottom of the triple tee.

 

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It comes in its own carry case.  Bought it from Wheels & Wings in Lake City, Florida.


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I have to position the strap as such to avoid unnecessary contact with the muffler and swingarm.

 

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There is a gap between the strap and the swingarm, but I think I will still look for something to use as a buffer so they don’t rub during transport.  It occurred to me that a washing mitt (for cars) cut open at the end could slide over the assembly as a sleeve.  I’ll take a closer look tomorrow when I’m in town.

 

IMG_7347.jpeg.216e41c9fa9defe54cbf202260c089fd.jpeg
 

Took the finished product out for a short drive.  So far, so good.  If you know the roads around my house, they aren’t that well maintained, so lots of bumps that make the bike shift side to side.  Everything held firm.

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45 minutes ago, XXitanium said:

You do NOT want any metal hooks contacting your bike.

 

 

Why not? It is perfectly fine to hook strap directly, like in the picture, to lower triple tree, or couple other point as well. Depends on the bike.

 

43 minutes ago, XXitanium said:

 

 

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I don't like it. There are couple potential points of failure. See if you can hook the strap directly to lower triple triple tree like in two pics below. 

16955883403808543342361228487573.jpg

1695588410546579283889819050072.jpg

Edited by tomek
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 And here. The way it is wrapped around lower triple, there is relatively sharp edge there, potential point of failure. And my lower marking, WTAF? There has to be easier, cleaner way to do it. 

 

Other than that you have finally done it right. 👍 Congratulations.

 

 

Screenshot_20230924-162312-046.png

Edited by tomek
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1 hour ago, tomek said:

Why not? It is perfectly fine to hook strap directly, like in the picture, to lower triple tree, or couple other point as well. Depends on the bike.

 

I don't like it. There are couple potential points of failure. See if you can hook the strap directly to lower triple triple tree like in two pics below. 

 

From what I can tell, there is nothing to hook on to with the BMW.  I thought there was, but it was how the metal was shaped and not a hole I could look through.

 

1 hour ago, tomek said:

Is there anyway to hook it up closer to the tire as marked? It would give you more clearance vs final drive.

 

No.  Those are the anchor points provided.  Even if I could find an anchor that would attach using longer bolts that hold the wheel assemblies to the axle, I’d have to make sure it wouldn’t compromise the trailer by putting the tie down stress on the wheel hub.

 

1 hour ago, tomek said:

And here. The way it is wrapped around lower triple, there is relatively sharp edge there, potential point of failure. And my lower marking, WTAF? There has to be easier, cleaner way to do it.


Just did it the way it was illustrated.

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3 hours ago, Zero Knievel said:

There is a gap between the strap and the swingarm, but I think I will still look for something to use as a buffer so they don’t rub during transport.  It occurred to me that a washing mitt (for cars) cut open at the end could slide over the assembly as a sleeve.  I’ll take a closer look tomorrow when I’m in town.

 

IMG_7347.jpeg.216e41c9fa9defe54cbf202260c089fd.jpeg

 

3 hours ago, Zero Knievel said:

IMG_7346.jpeg.f4b3090b4994cfc4928c0218d945af55.jpeg

A 'buffer' will prevent metal on metal contact, but the buffer is likely to end up rubbing on the drive.  Move the bottom of the strap outward.  You can replace one of the hub bolts with an eye bolt, or wrap around the vertical part of the axle.

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14 hours ago, Zero Knievel said:

I doubt an eye bolt would be fit to substitute for a wheel mount bolt.

If it were my trailer I wouldn't hesitate to do it...but maybe not with some crap ass Chinesium Harbor Freight eye bolt.

 

What's actually bolted on there?  With every trailer I've seen the only thing that gets bolted there is the brakes, but I assume that doesn't have brakes.  I've never seen a trailer with a bolted on hub assembly, the wheel bearings are always directly on the axle.  If you're not sure post a better photo of it.

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2 hours ago, superhawk996 said:

Shit, those are probably just holding the fenders on, I hadn't noticed that the ends of the fenders are in open air.  Eye bolt it.

Dude, that would be too easy. There has to be more sophisticated and less reliable way. 

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10 hours ago, superhawk996 said:

If it were my trailer I wouldn't hesitate to do it...but maybe not with some crap ass Chinesium Harbor Freight eye bolt.

 

What's actually bolted on there?  With every trailer I've seen the only thing that gets bolted there is the brakes, but I assume that doesn't have brakes.  I've never seen a trailer with a bolted on hub assembly, the wheel bearings are always directly on the axle.  If you're not sure post a better photo of it.


The bolts only attach the fenders…so I suppose your idea would work, but I’d need a locking nut on both sides and I question if the short distance it would provide would make enough of a difference.


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36 minutes ago, RXX said:

What algorithm do you employ to determine ride to destination versus trailering?


I was going to make a snarky quip about complicated math, but then remembered what you do for a living. ;) 

 

With my current health, I find that all day rides (over 500 miles) take enough out of me that riding at the destination is a chore…especially if I have to have the means to ride back home.  If I ride someplace and there’s fun stuff to do other than ride, I can make the trip about riding there and back.  Going to Utah was an exhausting trial and not a vacation…odd as only a decade or so ago I used to ride cross country.  Once a month jaunts with the locals wear me out if I have to go all the way to Johnson City, TN just to meet up.

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18 minutes ago, Zero Knievel said:


The bolts only attach the fenders…so I suppose your idea would work, but I’d need a locking nut on both sides and I question if the short distance it would provide would make enough of a difference.


 

I will, of course, make huge difference. Don't believe us? Run piece of something, cable, string, rope, etc.  from the top of the tire to one of bolts. It would give you huge clearance. Or just look at the picture. 

 

 You need something like this. You probably would need longer bolt to compensate for the anchor. Or maybe not. 

 Next. Your answer why it would be horrible idea. 

 

 

shopping.jpeg

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4 hours ago, Zero Knievel said:

I’d need a locking nut on both sides and I question if the short distance it would provide would make enough of a difference.

Jeezus kryst.  No matter how easy the solution is, you will find a way to complicate it while doubting that it'll work.

Edited by superhawk996
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5 hours ago, tomek said:

You need something like this. You probably would need longer bolt to compensate for the anchor. Or maybe not. 

 Next. Your answer why it would be horrible idea. 

 

 

shopping.jpeg

 

Thanks.  That would only necessitate getting a slightly longer bolt.

 

2 hours ago, superhawk996 said:

Jeezus kryst.  No matter how easy the solution is, you will find a way to complicate it while doubting that it'll work.

 

If you know how an eye-bolt is shaped, to not compromise the bolt as a securing point for the fender, I'd want a locking nut on the inside (towards wheel) and one at the "top" so I can properly tighten it down.  The existing bolt inserts from the wheel side.  An eye-bolt would have to insert from the trailer side.

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