Zero Knievel Posted July 11, 2023 Author Share Posted July 11, 2023 18 minutes ago, SwampNut said: I think you read it right. I really doubt the LS is doing anything at all any more, with the neglect and age. Put one tire in the air, and the trans in neutral. Can you spin the tire freely? Yes: LS is not working or not installed. Barely: LS barely working. No: Good LS. Define "freely." I don't think I can freely spin the rear wheels when both are off the ground, but I think that's more to do with all the drive components moving along with the wheel as compared to just having to spin the wheel on a hub. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SwampNut Posted July 11, 2023 Share Posted July 11, 2023 10 minutes ago, Zero Knievel said: Define "freely." I don't think I can freely spin the rear wheels when both are off the ground, but I think that's more to do with all the drive components moving along with the wheel as compared to just having to spin the wheel on a hub. If both are off the ground and you can't move them, you should get to the gym. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superhawk996 Posted July 11, 2023 Share Posted July 11, 2023 34 minutes ago, Zero Knievel said: Define "freely." I don't think I can freely spin the rear wheels when both are off the ground, but I think that's more to do with all the drive components moving along with the wheel as compared to just having to spin the wheel on a hub. They won't freely spin like spinning the front wheel of a bike in the air, but they'll rotate without exerting much force. Just do the one tire raised test like Carlos said. If you can't move it, you have a working LS. I think the minimum breakaway test torque is 40 foot pounds which would take considerable effort. If it has a weak LS it'll turn. If it's an open diff or the LS is totally smoked it'll turn quite freely. Another test option: raise both wheels, trans in park (in gear if it's a manual) and rotate one. If the other freely spins backwards its an open diff or super dead LS. If it feels locked or takes any effort to rotate it has LS. I don't remember if the diff tag would have just an L or LS. Some have a separate tag stamped LIMITED SLIP, often stating what oil to use. If you run the axle code on the door sticker that should tell you if it was equipped with LS. Your manual should state what kind of oil to use and will tell you about the LS additive. Note that many oils state that they have the LS additive already in them, but it's not enough for a working Ford LS so it'll still need the additive. If you don't use the additive it won't blow up the diff, but it'll make noise when powering through turns and probably causes more wear on the clutches. I mostly notice it when loaded or towing and accelerate out of a right turn. It's possible that not using the additive will help a worn out one work better. Also note that using the additive without a LS will do no damage, and some people claim that it makes the diff quieter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zero Knievel Posted July 11, 2023 Author Share Posted July 11, 2023 Okay watch this clip and tell me how you read it. One wheel on ground while in neutral with parking brake off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SwampNut Posted July 11, 2023 Share Posted July 11, 2023 You look to be exerting little to no effort, but it's hard to see. That looks like no LS or very dead. You really should have to work hard to move it, if at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superhawk996 Posted July 11, 2023 Share Posted July 11, 2023 2 hours ago, Zero Knievel said: Okay watch this clip and tell me how you read it. One wheel on ground while in neutral with parking brake off. Weak/worn limited slip....assuming the brakes aren't dragging. You can verify that it's not brakes by raising both and spinning again. Assuming it's LS, both wheels will spin in the same direction and with much less effort. If the effort remains the same, it's brakes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackhawkxx Posted July 11, 2023 Share Posted July 11, 2023 Like Super said earlier, put both tires in the air, spin forward. Do both tires spin forward or does one spin backwards? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Furbird Posted July 11, 2023 Share Posted July 11, 2023 11 hours ago, Zero Knievel said: Nice. I take a large. You do realize the issue in question would likely fail long past the expiration of the warranty, right? First run of the Titan broke before the first oil change. They forgot to put loctite on the carrier bolts. We had one they had to bring into the shop in 4WD. The 2WD's were brought in with a chain. NEVER BUY A FIRST YEAR MODEL VEHICLE! I'm not blasting Nissan, I just worked there and saw all this stuff. Every dealer has the same issues with every car they make, you just don't hear about it as much. Those guys still call me and say stuff like "you thought the CVT was bad, you ought to see this bullshit..." Just buy the limited slip friction modifiers regardless if you have one or not. If you do, good. If you don't, not going to hurt anything. Or just run Royal Purple. Or Redline. Or whatever already has it in there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SwampNut Posted July 11, 2023 Share Posted July 11, 2023 There are some benefits to a first year model vehicle. Never use that as your defining guideline. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XXitanium Posted July 11, 2023 Share Posted July 11, 2023 I drove through a couple of lots looking for a Corvette, and this is what I stopped in front of. I know I'm confused somehow... ...somehow... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zero Knievel Posted July 11, 2023 Author Share Posted July 11, 2023 2 hours ago, blackhawkxx said: Like Super said earlier, put both tires in the air, spin forward. Do both tires spin forward or does one spin backwards? Both spin the same direction…whether I spin forward or backward. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SwampNut Posted July 11, 2023 Share Posted July 11, 2023 Based on these two things together, I think we can surmise that you have a very aged and barely working LS. Oscar? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superhawk996 Posted July 12, 2023 Share Posted July 12, 2023 4 hours ago, SwampNut said: Based on these two things together, I think we can surmise that you have a very aged and barely working LS. Oscar? Pretty much. It's not dead, but quite weak. If one cared about maximizing what was left of its function, he might forgo the additive and see if it starts making noise demanding it. But I doubt Mike has any need for that so just add the stuff and know that it's set for life. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superhawk996 Posted July 12, 2023 Share Posted July 12, 2023 BTW, the noise won't start right away, it takes a bit of time for the new oil to 'wash away' the additive enhanced oil. The same holds true if you add it later, it'll take a while to work its way into the clutches and eliminate the noise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zero Knievel Posted July 12, 2023 Author Share Posted July 12, 2023 Would I just drain and fill…let it sit open for X minutes to let gravity drain as much as possible…rinse the gears with a proper cleaning agent to remove as much old grease before closing up and refilling? I know “motor flush” products are prone to make things worse when it absolutely needed and are not recommended. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superhawk996 Posted July 12, 2023 Share Posted July 12, 2023 No rinse or cleaning additives. Most have a small 'pocket' in the bottom that won't drain, I usually scoop out the oil and muck from that with a gloved hand. I usually clean the cover completely. Tip, remove all the bolts except one of the upper and one lower. The cover is usually stuck on and will need to be pried, keeping it retained keeps you from getting an oil bath when it pops free. I don't think that one takes a gasket so you'll need sealant to re-assemble. I use RightStuff Black, but pretty much any automotive sealant will work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SwampNut Posted July 12, 2023 Share Posted July 12, 2023 Yeah, my thought exactly, I've done neglected diffs and there's junk at the bottom. Glove or stick to pull it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackhawkxx Posted July 12, 2023 Share Posted July 12, 2023 4 hours ago, superhawk996 said: I use RightStuff Black, but pretty much any automotive sealant will work. I don't see RightStuff a lot on the shelves in my area but PERMATEX® ULTRA BLACK® RTV SILICONE GASKET MAKER is which I use all the time just in case he can't find your stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SwampNut Posted July 12, 2023 Share Posted July 12, 2023 So I can say that is definitely not the right stuff. But I also bought Ultra Black because that's what they had, and it's great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zero Knievel Posted July 12, 2023 Author Share Posted July 12, 2023 They do make gaskets for my differential. A question on lube. Haynes says it takes API GL-5 SAE 90 Hypoid I don’t see a lot of SAE 90 on auto shop pages…most all cover a range. What do you suggest? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Furbird Posted July 12, 2023 Share Posted July 12, 2023 (edited) Definitely don't "wash" it out because then the bearings are without lubricant. There is no pump, only the gears themselves slinging oil, so removing that film removes the protection. 80w90 is what everybody uses now. I'm in the south and tow a lot so I use 75w140 in all my stuff. Full synthetic. Edited July 12, 2023 by Furbird Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackhawkxx Posted July 13, 2023 Share Posted July 13, 2023 My Explorer also uses 75w140 in the rear but 75w-90 in the front. Zero either look in the manual that came with the truck or call or stop in any Ford dealer and ask for parts dept. and ask them. They will tell you the correct answer and the amount you will need. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superhawk996 Posted July 13, 2023 Share Posted July 13, 2023 4 hours ago, Zero Knievel said: They do make gaskets for my differential. A question on lube. Haynes says it takes API GL-5 SAE 90 Hypoid I don’t see a lot of SAE 90 on auto shop pages…most all cover a range. What do you suggest? I believe 80-90 GL-5 would be the current Dino oil replacement. I would probably go with mobile1 75-90. If most of your driving is highway and loaded/towing then I might lean toward 75-140. Any of them will be better than whatever sludge is in there now. I can't imagine how pretty and aromatic that stuff is. You're gonna love the aroma when you crack the lid on that tomb. Post a pic, I'm guessing black with a silvery pearlescent hue. AND-- Break the fill plug loose before you take the cover off. It would suck to find out that it's stuck after you've emptied the oil. I've never found one that was stuck, but you should always make sure you can fill something before you empty it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superhawk996 Posted July 13, 2023 Share Posted July 13, 2023 8 hours ago, blackhawkxx said: I don't see RightStuff a lot on the shelves in my area but PERMATEX® ULTRA BLACK® RTV SILICONE GASKET MAKER is which I use all the time just in case he can't find your stuff. Using that on the diff will cause the water pump seal to blow out. Right Stuff ONLY!!!! 😇 I've become a super fan boy of RS. It has some drawbacks compared to silicone, but overall I prefer it. It's kinda like using 3m 4200 or 5200 after a life of using marine silicone sealants, it's hard to go back to silicone. RS advertises 0 wait time. Install the part, fill the fluid, and drive off. I've tested that a few times going out of my way to fill it and drive it as fast as I could, no leaks. I had one occasion of a 'hot repair' on a semi-truck axle flange. I didn't have time to wait for it to stop dribbling oil so I just slammed the axle on and sent it down the road, the fucker actually sealed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zero Knievel Posted July 22, 2023 Author Share Posted July 22, 2023 Done. Not anywhere near as bad as you all suspected. No gunk or clumps. Dirty, yes. It was worse when I did my S-10 years ago, and it didn’t have even 100K on it. Hardest bit was cleaning off the old gasket. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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