mickcbr1100

Carlos is on about V&M racing that made the Anniversay Blackbird for the UK, unfortunately they have stopped doing outside work and are solely involved in racing under their new name Valmoto. If you want a rough idea as to what is available try TTS who do a big bore kit and other items http://www.tts-performance.com/catalog/ind...x.php?cPath=100

Are you replacing stock pads with the metal shims behind them?, if so you dont need to use the shims when fitting the EBCs, that gives a little bit more clearance.

Check this out- an autopsy on a 'bird can has all the details you want http://www.ixxra.com/exhaust/exhaust.htm forget I ever posted, its the collector you want isnt it :oops:

99 and 00 birds have an issue with the wiring loom where it loops under the starter relay left hand side. It collects water and corrodes the terminal block that just happens to be right at the lowest point of the loop inside the loom. Initially causes the FI light to come on for no reason as yours is but several bikes have just "died" after a time. People over here have had the loom changed when the bike has finally died or even if they just report the FI light keep coming on. BUT Honda arent calling it a fault/recall nor even acknowledging it openly just getting dealers to change it no questions asked, the loom is covered for 5 years under warranty. Believe USA Honda arent aware of this/havent been informed. The loom was rerouted from 01. This MIGHT be your problem.

TTS UK does as well, dont know how good the prices match up with over there though.http://www.tts-performance.com/bigborepage.php

Here you go, this explains the tyre sidewall codes --------------------------------------------------------------------------------

If you read the bikes owners manual it answers your basics questions, thats if one came with your bike- 1. Combined weight of rider/pillion/luggage and all accessories should not exceed 185kg/411 lbs 2. recommended tyre pressures are the same for solo and two up riding at 42 lbs Every tyre made is marked with its properties including its max pressure and speed rating, in our case its a Z rated tyre we need which is good for bikes capable of 180mph (the Z bits right I'm not sure of the exact max speed though) If the tyre is a recommended fitment to the Blackbird then it will be capable of taking up to the maximum load given in the owners manual. That said people experiment to find the ideal tyre pressure for the use of the bike e.g. drop a few PSI for track, put a few in for luggage but some tyres are extremely pressure sensitive and just a couple of pounds either way can alter it tremendously making it an evil handling bitch. You've got to pick your tyre then get suggestions from people with the same choice as to the ideal settings and start from there really as tyres are only part of the equation, whats good for them may not suit you, everyone rides different.

I replaced mine at about 5,000, was having a lot of selection problems, clutch not engaging then it would, bleeding did no good. Bought EBC plates and uprated springs before I checked the old one so I wouldnt have to strip it again if anything was wrong. All appeared OK, plates werent overworn, basket not notched, springs within limit, only thing I found wrong was a caked up pushrod. Fitted the new clutch and springs anyway cleaned the rod and had no problems since couldnt really say what the fault was. The clutch cover gasket costs £13- about $20 FFS over here, needless to say it got siliconed instead.

Sounds more like they've given you one for a different bike, I think powerbronze are shit anyway( my double bubble is a crap fit) but it shouldnt be that far out. I've got a pyramid plastics hugger that fits fine.

or as you're in the UK try- http://www.davidsilverspares.co.uk/ for OEM Honda discs they're usually cheaper than the dealers, other than that its a trawl though M&P/MPS, Busters or similar for aftermarket stuff. BTW have you checked the runout just to make sure?, its a lot of money to waste if it turns out its just the rear wheel slightly out of alignment.

The max disc runout is .3mm. You probably wont get the vibration using the front brakes as they activate a seperate line to just one of the back brake pistons making the lever too remote to feel the vibration/pulsing as there is less back braking force than using the pedal. I've got EBC HH all round and havent got a problem apart from the zinging noise you get from the sintering. Did you replace the pads and put the shim on the back if so there is a tolerance issue, the EBC are thicker and dont need the shim, could be dragging when they've warmed up and expanded and the friction caused a bit of warping. Is your rear wheel running true?

You will , you learn by making mistakes and you wont make that one again, think about it, when the next person posts the same problem you will be able to say with authority what the problem is and the remedy. :megaphone:

UK bikes had CATS from 2001 models onwards would have thought you'd be the same over there.

Yep get nothing now on the move but I cant honestly tell you what fixed it whether it was the clutch plates/springs that did appear OK anyway or the shitty clutch rod. Still get the usual neutral to first clunk unless I hold the clutch in for 3 seconds like you're apparently supposed to then it goes in silently.

I had some clutch trouble at around 5,000 miles, like you particularly when warmed up, I would get bad clunks changing gear, sometimes clutch wouldnt disengage and gave me problems going up and down the gears had the odd occassion when I just couldnt get to the next gear at all. Bled it a few times but didnt help so bought an EBC set of friction plates and uprated springs. When I got to the clutch couldnt find any problems, everything was true and in limits, no notches in basket etc the only thing I did find was the slave cylinder end of the clutch rod was really cruddy, the rod was straight and true but had a thick rust like deposit on the end. Cleaned it up, replaced the plates and springs with the EBC ones and have had no trouble since(another 4,000 miles). Only thing is I cant say for sure what the problem was if there was something I didnt notice with the clutch or if it was something to do with the rod. BTW the EBC springs are something like 10% stronger but I havent noticed a jot of difference in the clutch lever pressure needed.

You want Rich's (Hobicus) post at 9.49am above. with the link- "VFR Bar Install Pictures".

For what its worth the cans/subframe issue should have no bearing at all on all your other observations. Its usually only slightly out and just affects the way the cans sit not the rest of the bike as you are noticing. Seems weird, if I'd noticed all those things I would certainly get it checked out properly, have you had the forks out and they have been refitted incorrectly, wrong torque or whatever giving them a slight twist? but that wouldn't explain the problems chain and swingarm area unless it was running offset. Certainly worth a proper check perhaps a frame jig check just for peace of mind, you cant have full confidence in it if it looks like that.

http://www.bike-parts.fr/pieces2.php?num_m...UPER&grande=oui Try this, its a french site(english part) that sells all Honda parts from the microfiche the address is for the bird carb fiche page with all the descriptions below, may help to identify the part. If it wont let you in just go to the main page and register yourself, its free. BTW the prices it shows are in Euros.

Mith is correct in saying The Haynes manual does give the correct procedure for synchronising the FI starter valves stating "out of synch starter valves cause uneven idling when cold starting and warming the engine" which seems to cover the point raised by a few with FI when cold. It isnt too hard a job I use the Morgan carbtune manometer not found much of a variation but just do it for peace of mind.

These are stills from the 1999 Isle of Man TT. Duke Video, probably the most (in)famous tankslapper seen over here :shock: . Paul Orritt on Bray Hill when it just went into a slap, suffered serious arm injuries but lived to race another day. The actual video clip is awesome and a real good advert for steering dampers

TSR Japan do a conversion to fit the SP1(RC51) forks to the bird for ONLY 238,000yen, approx $2,000 :shock: FFS http://www.tsrjp.com/products/parts/catalo...xx&selectNum=19 Some nice kit but expensive, english is a bit quaint to say the least. Supposed to have a TSR UK but I cant find it on the web. .

It was me, there has been no recall over here but anyone who reports any similar problem gets a replacement wiring harness with no explanation as to why and Honda have also extended the warranty covering the wiring to 5 years. But you wont get any admission from Honda that there is any problem. Briefly it affects 99-00 birds, where the harness loops down the left side from the sub frame and under the starter relay. At the lowest point of the loop there is a connector block inside the harness.(about 1 1/2"x 1/2" that you can feel), being the lowest point any water that gets in collects there, rots the terminals and causes various minor malfunctions until finally you get a major one and the bike dies. The harness is too tight at this point to try and reroute it and from 01 it was changed.