superhawk996

Tighten 'till you hear a crack, then back it off a bit. The typical rule for studs is to fully seat them by hand, no torque required. I don't know what the studs bottom out on, but if the unthreaded portion bottoms on the threads in the head, tightening them will damage the threads. I flipped through the manual and found nothing about them. That's a little risky, especially in aluminum. It's fairly easy to accidentally cut new threads, especially with a good sharp starter tap.

I'm guessing the answer will be no. If you're standing at the gate speaking Mexican and holding American dollars it might be a different answer. In your text you said there's another pile of them in Huntingon Beach; if you have details I'll try my luck with them.

That's my understanding. They had to recall them and couldn't fix them.

And one style will fit on the other bike, but not the other way around without modding. I can't remember if it's early header onto late bike or vise versa. I'm pretty sure the Yosh, maybe all aftermarket headers, fit all years. And '97 is the fastest.

No DNA test needed. I wonder what she says about him. I wonder what kind of home buying choices he would have made. I wonder how she'd judge that vs. living in mom's basement.

There's two great reasons to let her do her thing.

I wish I could go back in time to test stuff before/during/after fasting. A chick I dated a few years after had worked at a supervised fasting facility and said that what I did was extreme and very dangerous. Apparently, not eating for several weeks can kill you, but I felt good.

Welcome to the world of Zero....Zero knowledge and Zero ability to recognize the lack of knowledge before trying to educate others.

If you could find someone with free time and a bit of motivation you could cut a deal with them selling parts for you. Or retire and make side money off selling parts. One of my friends has had a couple 'employees' that he'd pay to advertise and ship stuff.

First Harley I rode was a Fat Boy. I was highly impressed with the performance, but it was heavily modded.

The radiator doesn't need to be touched to do the thermostat, they're on opposite sides of the engine. Not removing the radiator for testing is more like doing a head gasket job and not checking the crank bearing clearances. If one actually wanted to be extra thorough, pressure testing the system would make much more sense than just testing the radiator.

It's unfortunate that Mike's brain is what it is. I shouldn't give him shit when he posts retarded stuff, but it sometimes feels like it's the only way to possibly get the message through.

They sell 18s at the vegan restaurant next door to the EV dealership. There's even a manbun mechanic that'll install it for you while you share your soy latte with your boyfriend. I've never tried any alternative gearing on the BB. If I were doing lots of highway cruising I'd probably do an 18. I have a 16, it should be fun, but I've never tried it out.

The thermostat open/closed will make almost no difference for the hose. What typically happens (not Blackbird specific) is coolant slowly makes its way between the hose and fitting leading to buildup and possibly rust/corrosion which slowly makes the leak worse. I've also had a few spring clamps that seemed to loose their tension. I would clean the nipple and hose and install a good clamp.

Pretty sure I've narrowed the problem down to the secondary master, and I think I know which component is causing it. I'll have a go of fixing it, then beg you for one if that fails. Mikesail brought me one he had laying around, but unfortunately it's in worse shape than mine. The upside is that since it's super fucked I can open it up to investigate before digging into mine.

It was the speaker phone call with Micheal and Jorge, I think it was a relative of Jorge that has diabetes and we were talking about different meds. It was Thirsty Thursday and they stayed late so most of my memory was erased.

Yes, this is the first thing everyone should always do when they encounter a radiator that's not leaking.

Option 2, just re-use them. I know you're not supposed to, but I swapped headers a few times without replacing them and didn't have any noticeable leaks. Another thought-it's possible that loosening the header nuts a little and running the engine might help free them up.

Do you have any linked brake parts? I haven't figured out which part I need yet, probably the proportioning valve or the delay valve, maybe the secondary master on the front caliper.

I coulda sworn that you recently said Metformin is terrible....?

The upside of large luggage is that when the cop sees you fly by on one wheel he'll be stuck thinking "no way I saw what I think I saw, that's a touring bike."

The temp shouldn't go that far above thermostat temp before it opens. A few degrees is fairly normal, but that's too much. My best guess is that the thermostat has had an issue for a long time and it's getting worse.

Insert the reset tool into the hole and push.

A joke no funnier than having to reboot the fucking washing machine.

Yup. Mom had diabetes, Carlos inherited it, I don't think I did, but I don't check. Dad had Alzheimer's, I inherited a fair bit of Dad's traits...picking up more backyard eggs tomorrow!!!