superhawk996

Yup. And he's shown a few tests with it, but does a lot more testing with other oils from boutique stuff to generics like Supertech and the Amazon stuff. Break-in is when zinc is really important, after that the importance depends on how much spring pressure you have and the RPM you run. Zinc tends to increase friction but it reduces wear, particularly in high pressure areas. Almost all of my flat tappet engines have been run on 15-40 for the last 20-ish years.

I've never experienced or known of a cam failure on anything. The M1 15-50 used to be a fairly high zinc oil and clutch safe. It might still be clutch safe, but it's now an SP oil so not high zinc, but it 'should' be fine. I'm guessing it hasn't been high zinc for a very long time, I think it should be better now that the zinc doesn't have to fight with the other additive. If you wanna do some learning and you enjoy videos, try Lake Speed Jr. (AKA the motor oil geek) on YT. He's a tribologist and mega gear head and does shit tons of oil testing with dynos and lab equipment. He probably has a few aimed at flat tappet cams, or just search for what he's found using SP oils.

Well, since some dickhead turned this into an oil thread: Automotive gas and diesel oils have gone through many changes, some were bad. The latest gas spec is SP and some diesel oils also meet the SP spec. They removed, or greatly reduced, some important stuff and I was initially afraid of it, but it appears to actually be superior to the previous spec. The zinc has been low in oils for quite some time, but with the SP formulation the zinc is now more effective. One of the removed/reduced components tends to 'fight' with zinc, pretty sure it's a cleaner or dispersant. The anti-friction additives were also modified and appear to be better as well. This is probably the only time they've changed the formulation to be better for old and new engines. If you're concerned with cleanliness, Valvoline's "Restore and Protect" appears to be good stuff. They used to have a more aggressive formula that would clean much faster, but that lead to problems with some really dirty engines. The new one is a slow gentle cleaner.

No, you just think it's a clutch thread because of the symptom, but it's actually an oil thread because that's what caused it. Or maybe it's a parked motorcycle thread because that's what caused it? Could be an astrology thread; what's your sign and what month did you park it?

I'm pretty sure Hacienda Heights was created on a massive ant hill. They've always been a problem, but the long hot summer appears to have them desperate for food, they've been pretty relentless lately. Pretty annoying, but it's better than having scorpions drop in through the kitchen vent so I won't bitch too much.

I've been a long time fan of Diesel oil for bikes, but both of my '97 Birds were clunky with it. Castrol 10-40 motorcycle spec oil was better. My current '97 seems to be more picky than the first, maybe because of the cable actuated clutch. I put in Motul 300V 10-40, it's painfully expensive, but the clutch and shifting smoothness was night and day. I think about shifting and it's already in the next gear, and finding neutral is a no-brainer. More surprising was that the clunk from neutral to first damn near vanished.

Sadly, I was almost never quick on the draw.

I've had bikes that sat for decades and the clutches unstuck without a teardown. Something don't seem right if you had to open it up.

Smart me would have offered them rides. DOH!

I went to a bike night last night, it was about 95% Harleys. Two cute young chicks from a sport bike group were admiring the Bird, they didn't know what it was. They were highly impressed by the age, condition, and low miles, but would have been really impressed if it had 200+K on it. They brought one of they guys over, I heard "it's an 1100!", the dude's face said "damn, this old guy just dick slapped me in front of my chick."

What's the car under those clusters?

PERFECT! Now I just need a set of tires with melted edges and I'll be set.

I'll pay a premium for a super high mileage analog cluster for my '97 so people will think I'm a rider. Wrap it in a worn out riding jacket for bonus value.

Lots of used OEM on eBay, just need to know the connector type. Seems that 8 pin and 14 pin are the most common.

From looking at a few online suppliers of OEM controls, it looks like you need to know which type of plug/wiring yours takes. They show serial numbers for some, but the listed range is so wide I don't know if they cover your # or not. The couple I looked at start with narrowing down the choices; with/wo electric start, with/wo power trim, then you get to look through them to find your electrical connection type.

I didn't know amazon had them. I looked at a few and the reviews aren't promising, trim switches and the red plastic neutral lock thing break. I wouldn't care about the lock, as long as it doesn't jam things up, but a failed trim switch while on the water would suck. A generic switch on the dash could cure that, maybe install one up front as a back-up. Guessing one of these will work, I didn't search through them to see which yours takes. https://www.mercruiserparts.com/electric-start-side-mount-outboard-controls-with-power-trim Did you try checking with the place you got the motor from? If they don't have one I assume they wouldn't be opposed to telling you what to buy. Or call around to boat shops to see if they have a used one laying around. If you can find any boat junkyards that might yield something used and cheaper than new, or eBay might be the place to go. The only boat I had with Mercs had 'offshore controls'.

I'm sure it could, just like a snap lock type master link works perfectly fine, 'till it don't. No clue if a snap ring would be less reliable than the locking plate, I don't recall ever seeing one that used a snap ring so there might be a reason.

They are outside my areas of expertise and I usually don't work on them, I will for some people, but never past the valve body. I trust this customer to not be upset if my diagnosis was wrong, he'd rather put faith in my ignorant honesty than trust a tranny shop. Once you get into the rotating assembly there are often specialty tools needed, and you need to know certain things that are 'special' to each different trans. Valve bodies are trippy, they're essentially hydromechanical computers. Early on they were purely mechanical, then electronics were added to the mix. In some cases all of the shifting is controlled by the electronics, this one uses mostly mechanical means along with some electronic inputs. With my Cherokee all the shifting was electronically controlled, I added switches next to the shifter that allowed me to override the TCU and shift it manually. The tan dots are the new balls.

And saving the fluid would be retarded, it makes good diesel fuel.

First time I opened one I didn't know about the balls and they all spilled out, luckily I had a manual that showed where they're supposed to go. They used to be steel, now some use plastic. 99% sure that the fluid change was unrelated to the failure. He did some hard switchback hill climbing right after I worked on it which may have contributed to the demise. The fan clutch was barely working and the engine overheated, which means the trans probably did too. The symptoms started right after that drive. The ball was probably going to fail anyway, but the high heat probably killed it a little sooner. I replaced the fan clutch today also, along with a few other things. I dumped all the fluid. Getting it out without contaminating it is difficult, and the change only replaced 4 or 5 quarts from the 13-14 it holds. After this job it got 10.5 quarts so it's mostly new fluid now. Even tho drain & fills only replace a small amount of the fluid, doing it regularly is enough to keep the trans happy. I like this customer a lot, we became friends shortly after I started working for him. He drops a vehicle off and lets me treat it as I would my own, when it's done he brings cash and beer and we hang out.

Jezzus dude, WTF?!? We're going to need to donate again for the server required to hold the 857 page thread on how to tarp a house.

I'm just writing this as an excuse to write that title. Guy's '06 F-150 started acting up shortly after I changed the trans fluid. While accelerating from a stop it would bog down, then shift hard. When coming to a stop it would sometimes shudder and buck. On my test drive it stalled when shifting from R to D. I felt that the torque converter clutch was engaging when it shouldn't, then verified it with my scanner. My initial guess was that the clutch solenoid was leaking causing the clutch to engage, he gave the go ahead to replace it. After some research I decided to dig further. Most valve bodies, maybe all, have a few check balls, balls floating in a channel or hole that act as check valves. They're usually steel, but this one uses plastic balls. This uses 8 balls, 7 of them looked good, the one in the clutch circuit, not so much. I replaced them all, and the solenoid. The solenoid is $40 and I already had it so it seemed like a smart thing to do. I'll be finishing it today and hopefully it'll be a happy tranny again.

I think the holes are for a retainer plate, like this... A plate instead of a nut seems to be fairly common with dirtbikes. But more importantly, what's been talked about concerning the offset and width needs to be checked.

My guess on Rivian using a male fitting is that they didn't want to deal with issues that could arise with a female. All the potential jokes aside, dirt and corrosion can jam up a female fitting and they'd have to replace it if it failed in warrantee. Another reason just hit me; they're bigger and can't be installed with a socket, it appears to be in a fairly small recess where it might be troublesome to install. And it looks like it might be a pain to push the collar to get your hose off vs. pulling the collar with your hose. I don't like that it doesn't display the pressure while it's running. I noticed that you aired up without the engine running. Assuming it's a 12v compressor; does the truck charge the 12v battery while running the compressor?

I used to be a fast eater, now I'm usually the last one done in any group. I very rarely have any digestive problems, possibly related. The change was so long ago I don't know how/what I did. I remember reading or hearing something that said you should chew your food XX number of times and it's likely that I started counting or at least paying attention to it. I hate wasting time so I'll often eat while I work; take a bite, wrench for a bit, swing by for another bite. Nobody's stealing the burrito/sandwich covered in black fingerprints.