superhawk996

This is always a concern, but I've bought many abandoned vehicles, some that sat over 20 years, and had no seal issues I can recall. My current boat is a 2007 that was apparently never used, and was stored outdoors in Bullhead AZ which is a pretty harsh environment. I haven't put a lot of run time on it, but it's been around 9 months and no leaks so far. As a bonus, the owner parked it with the hull drains installed so the engine was mostly underwater. The high water mark was almost at the valve cover, when I got to it the water was at about mid cylinder area.

Looks like a good idea...'till someone grabs it willy nilly and either gets burnt because of the split or one of the perpendicular rods. If this doesn't already exist, I think it would be a hit; a silicone covered handle that attaches to the rack.

If it stops having the low regen problem it's fairly safe to assume that the wear problem is also solved, but it would be a good idea to check the temp after a ride to be sure.

Is the regen level changed by a pressure switch or a mechanically linked switch? If it's pressure it could possibly be caused by an overfill. If it mechanical then the lever is being held by him or something. I'm assuming that the wear and regen are related, which seems likely.

Now I'm lost. In the beginning you said that the problem was figured out, but now it seems like you're saying that there's still doubt?

An adjustment, or manufacturer fuck up, or something, was keeping the pedal from fully retracting keeping a little pressure in the system and keeping the brake switch on telling the bike not to give full regen.

Load some heavy stuff into the bucket or onto the forks. Or step out of the cab and jump on the fork.

Dummy forgot to perform the brake pad rotation, and/or he makes too many left turns while on the brakes. If it's only got piston(s) on one side, caliper slide pin jammed up. If it's pistons on both sides, piston jammed up-less likely. It's also possible that there was a caliper/bracket installation screw-up, but I think that would have eaten the pad quicker.

Not to me, and it's better written than many I see.

While I somewhat understand the allure to something old with super low miles, it usually has to be all original to pull top dollar. It would cost a fair bit to restore that Bird so I can't imagine a collector type being attracted to it.

How so?

If they cut it without permission I'd demand that they replace it on their dime.

A little trick to getting them tighter than normal, especially useful if you don't have the proper tightening tool, use a small screwdriver or something to push the locking ball in as you pull the tie. Another option is to bend the little tab that retains the ball to hold it in the locked position, then tighten. There's only a tiny bit of loosening that happens doing it the normal way, but it can make a difference with some stuff.

Note to self, add drill to the carry list.

And the left hand thread screws for the left side of the stairs.

Actually, my point was that he bought dowels to fill in the holes, which will require drilling, cutting, and glueing, rather than just buying bigger screws.

So you bought more shit to do more work to avoid buying screws. I knew there would be a perfectly illogical reason for not doing it the easy way....nothing like a head slapper and chuckle to start the day off.

Dude, that is way too logical. He has to use the Zero method. But it's only stairs so worst case scen

All my vehicles have the key in the ignition, the garage doors are open, and the house doors are only closed because it got cold out. A while back while I was out of town my roomie did the 'smart' thing and locked the house on his way out. When I got home I was briefly fucked 'till I remembered that I keep a key to the back door on a shelf in the patio. The laziness does have a downside, when you leave your old wooden garage door open forever it starts to sag in the middle.

How fast does yours go, and did you correct for wind and current?

While not 100% precise, it's pretty much true. And 5mph is probably only achieved by using one much larger than the normal recommended thrust for the boat. The prop is kinda like the gearing on a land vehicle, if you can redline your engine in top gear, adding power won't add speed.

It's probably because of that retarded fucked up sprocket/swingarm geometry they stole from HD. 😬

No. I started shopping for a front and then something shiny went by.

I got my machines from Walmart when they were upgrading. The company installing the new stuff would take the old ones, or I could hand the automotive manager cash. He used that to buy tools for the guys that Walmart wouldn't supply, a good dude. I bought a few tons of stuff and spent the rest of the day running the truck back & forth. My tire shop charges even less I think, but I'd do it for the convenience and joy of DIY, and so that they get done right. Plus that occasional want to mount a 20+ year old tire on something.

If you have the space for professional shop machines there's sometimes great deals out there. I was under pressure to get rid of mine, I often wish I hadn't. Never allow code enforcement to look around.