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WTB 2000 or later titanium or redbird


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I'm in the market for a sport-tourer that is fun to ride and is also considered to be one of the best bikes ever made.

 

The ideal candidate would be a clean FI Bird in good running condition, good paint, good wheels, all or mostly stock, with mileage somewhere around the point of the first valve clearance adjustment. I've seen them for sale, so I know they exist. I will pay for shipment as needed.

 

Wish-list mods include Heli bars, aux led headlamps, aftermarket seat, hard bags, GPS mount, aux power outlet, and a gorgeous redheaded pillion. I mean, it doesn't hurt to dream.

Edited by KenNcDoD
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You leave out the fastest color by not accepting 99 models (black).  Well over 50k on mine, never had the valve cover off.  They don't "need" a valve adjustment, and I can only clearly recall one person actually doing it and finding it was off (believe it was .001 or .002, basically not even worth pulling the valve cover off) and that was over 100k.  I've got a 99 with 2000 body work (because they are the same bike) but it doesn't fit within your parameters.

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I assumed he meant 100k miles, which is when the valves may need adjustment...

 

But seriously, as he said, the 99 and up gives you FI.  If you're looking for a digital dash specifically, the 2001 and up.  There's no reason to fear a bike with 50k on it.  We've seen people selling bikes that look showroom and have 50k, and people selling ratty shit with 15k on it.  I read your message as looking for a nice-condition bike that is reliable, and really, the mileage is not an issue at all.

 

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Thanks for the guidance Swamp and Fur. I'm glad to hear that good news about high-mileage reliability. And I'm glad that I don't need to get a valve adjust, at least right away.

 

I should ammend my original statement to include any FI year, with mileage up to 40K.

 

Note that the owner's manual has a periodic maintenance table that calls for a value clearance adjustment at 27K miles. Glad that I don't have to run out and do that.

 

What I read is that after you buy one, you change the timing chain tensioner and the rectifier and you're good to go. Sounds reasonable to me.

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That's 24,000km or 16k miles, at least in my manual.  But we all learned that it simply "never" needs adjustment.  I did one check in my...80k miles I think?  Never out of spec.

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I am heading out in 2 weeks for a good 5K mile tour on a 99 with 107K on in. Have another one in the barn with 78 K. No valve adjustments ever. Do not fear the high mileage bird if it is in reasonably good shape.

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2001 had the double green dot (paint marker)  CCT as OEM.

 

2001 also had the largest stator and relocated R/r.

I think the large stator puts out a heady 900 watts.

I replaced my stator with a Ricks, and a Mosfet series regulator.  Done at 50k, I'm at 65k now with no issues.

A HID, or possibly LED headlamp upgrade helps on night rides.

 

Good luck on your search, and welcome.

Edited by redxxrdr
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Wow, the XX really does live up to it's reputation. Thanks for the welcome Red, this seems like a friendly gang. ReXX, that tour of your's should get sponsorship bucks from Honda!  😉  Maybe I'll find a 2001...

 

My issue with the headlights is seeing into corners on backroads. For me, all headlights work well enough straight ahead. A pair of those little LEDs would work wonders.

 

Saw a very nice titanium on cycletrader down in Braedenton, FL. The guy won't return my emails. Looks primo. Maybe he wants to sell to a lister?

 

https://www.cycletrader.com/listing/2000-Honda-CBR-1100XX-5013288452 

 

Enjoy your riding this weekend!

 

 

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1 hour ago, KenNcDoD said:

this seems like a friendly gang

Hey all, we suckered in some fresh meat!

 

We are, and will take stabs.  Read the "only one rule" and believe it.  Unlike other forums, we can and will talk a gang of shit without being reported or censored.

 

1 hour ago, KenNcDoD said:

The guy won't return my emails.

Some people are just flakes.  Maybe the system isn't notifying him or they're going to his junk mail.  Or maybe it's sold and he's too lazy to say so, but at that price it seems unlikely.

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I'm not offended easily, but it can be done.  😉 The motto of our riding group is "live to flame, flame to live." Most of us live to ride.

 

For me, that $6K XX compares favorably with the S1000XR at twice the price. It doesn't have all the electronics, but I haven't missed any of that stuff so far.

 

I had cycletrader tech support contact the guy. Still no word, and no update showing sold status. Jee zuss.

Edited by KenNcDoD
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6 hours ago, KenNcDoD said:

My issue with the headlights is seeing into corners on backroads. For me, all headlights work well enough straight ahead. A pair of those little LEDs would work wonders.

 

That is a real issue. LED’s would probably solve it, I don’t know. But I have HID’s on both mine and it absolutely, positively, fixed that. That would be the one mod that increases safety more than anything else.

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Stator/RR, CCT, wiring test-block, linked brake bleeding, are what I think of as issues.

 

Get really good tires.

 

For your nickname, did you just drop goofballs on your keyboard? JK - if you care to share.

 

 

 

 

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You do a bulb upgrade on a bird and you'll realize why we all have stock headlight housings.  I run HID and that virtually eliminates any visibility issues.  The low beam cut off is so dramatic straight ahead that it's deceptive in that you think corner visibility is nill.  But the edges still rise up significantly, so when you're leaned over you get quite a bit of light at the roadside and on on corners.  Those of us with parts will do everything humanly possible to save these housings, they are that good.  And with the high beam on, it's like the sun rose.  But God have mercy on your soul if you're approaching a Bird with a high beam HID on at night because it's so bright you won't even have a shadow.

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11 hours ago, KenNcDoD said:

The motto of our riding group is "live to flame, flame to live."

 

Yes, but has it been on your riding jacket since the mid-90s?  No?  Poser.

 

image.png

 

6 hours ago, RXX said:

LED’s would probably solve it, I don’t know.

 

I have LEDs in mine, and while "solve it" is a judgement call, I can tell you that the reach and reflectance are stunningly better than halogen.  It took very minor hacksaw surgery to fit them (cutting the old base to fit).

 

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07NXS9RHB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

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HID units cost $200.00 when they first came out. Still worth it. Now at $30.00, The are a no brainer. I don't know how good led systems are.

Hid bulbs have to warm up. Because of that, I only run them on my low beam, always on, circuit.

Trust me, it's a great upgrade.

 

The bulb fits into the standard socket, but is a little loose.

I used a garden hose washer behind the bulb to tighten the fit.

 

Eric, RIP, had spent the effort to build a bulb cover that eliminated the scattered light.

Most of us were too lazy, and just installed the bulb.

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LEDs are better than HID for sure.  Trying them side by side on various vehicles, the LED wins every time.  They also have far fewer issues/failures and don't have the warmup problem.  They don't have the problem of scattering light forward.  There's truly zero reason for HID to exist any more.

 

9 minutes ago, redxxrdr said:

The bulb fits into the standard socket, but is a little loose.

 

You can cut the original socket to make a perfect spacer.  Took me five minutes to do both, mostly test fitting and re-trimming with the Dremel.  

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6 hours ago, SwampNut said:

 They also have far fewer issues/failures and don't have the warmup problem.  They don't have the problem of scattering light forward.  There's truly zero reason for HID to exist any more.

 

I will install LED’s the day my HID’s have any issues/failures. After 70+K miles it can’t be that far off. Until then, there is a reason for mine to exist, at least.

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36 minutes ago, RXX said:

 

I will install LED’s the day my HID’s have any issues/failures. After 70+K miles it can’t be that far off. Until then, there is a reason for mine to exist, at least.

You might not want to say that before your big trip.  😉

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The nice thing about a HID conversion is that there is no cutting.

The OEM low beam bulb will go back in the socket by removing the windshield and coming in through the top.

I carry a replacement HID bulb on long trips.

Plus the HID tend to flicker and hard start before a hard failure.

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Ken, I "might" sell my 02'.  It's pretty nice at 10K miles.  I bought it in February as a previous deal on a Red 01' had fallen through.   Then the Redbird came back up and I bought that a month ago.   Not sure I need two in the stable.  

Still thinking on it.   

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