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tomek

differential noise

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His gears and bearings are cupped, he doesn't want to catch shit from us.

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Changing the bearings is foolish. Pack it with saw dust and 90-120 hypoid. That motor won't make enough power to do shit. Sell the jack wagon pronto.

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13 hours ago, XXitanium said:

We only have one rule, but how 'bout posting a couple pics?

I will, maybe tonight. I'm not at my own place everyday. 

Edited by tomek
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37 minutes ago, tomek said:

I'm not at my own place everyday. 

 

You have sleep-over hookers??

 

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We own two properties, mine has garage, her is 2.7 miles from my employer.

 

It is complicated.😁

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Work bench mess. Im gonna por15 cast iron housing and whatever suspension parts, etc. 

IMG_20191022_211334350.jpg

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Under the car mess. If weather sucks on Saturday I should be able to put everything back together. If it is nice it is gotta wait.

IMG_20191022_211417978.jpg

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Good grief, could they make the pinion shaft any longer?!?  Any reason it's set up like that and not shorter with a longer driveshaft?  That car isn't that big, a few more inches and they could have just bolted it directly to the trans!

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I don't see any acetone on the bench; how you gonna clean them parts?!? 😁

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No idea. Next gen rx7 had similar engine block and transmission, longer driveshaft and way more compact differential assembly.

 

superhawk and slapper, both of you are on lifetime ignore, don't waste your time posting.

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1 hour ago, tomek said:

you are on lifetime ignore

I figured.  Pretty sure Fur has me on it too.  Doesn't stop me.

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LOL - This place is a nut house.

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On 10/22/2019 at 9:48 PM, Furbird said:

Good grief, could they make the pinion shaft any longer?!?  Any reason it's set up like that and not shorter with a longer driveshaft?  That car isn't that big, a few more inches and they could have just bolted it directly to the trans!

Is that the R1 crank you melted down in the background? You never did explain what you did to nuke your motor.

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1 minute ago, XXBirdSlapper said:

You never did explain what you did to nuke your motor.

 

images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQ-lkEev3hUiPxQsHG_3Zd

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4 hours ago, SwampNut said:

 

images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQ-lkEev3hUiPxQsHG_3Zd

Party pooper.

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11 hours ago, XXBirdSlapper said:

Is that the R1 crank you melted down in the background? You never did explain what you did to nuke your motor.

Going very very fast on very loud motorcycle and just broke no warning instantly melted titanium that is how it happen now fuck you and put on ignor.

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17 minutes ago, superhawk996 said:

Going very very fast on very loud motorcycle and just broke no warning instantly melted titanium that is how it happen now fuck you and put on ignor.

I am amateur. I only know old engines. I will now go for fucking myself. 

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Removing lower bearing from pinion was PITA. Fucker was really, really tight. Had to buy puller from HF.

 

https://www.harborfreight.com/bearing-separator-and-puller-set-62593.html?_br_psugg_q=bearing+puller

 

FYI, before you try to use it replace hardware on extensions with something made from the steel, supplied "nuts" will slide off like a butter.

 

Initial attempt was  fail even when after heating inner race.  Tossed pinion to the freezer for 20 hrs. Repeated ritual with blow torch and it finally moved.   

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Wifes car is make rear diff noises. Did a recommend fluid change with additive and not helped. So off to the dealer for them to fix/replace a known issue it seems from various forums.

 

1st dealer denied ever hearing about it, don't know what is causing it.

2nd dealer, yes pretty common issue, no problem. Setting up a time to drop it off next week. 

 

 

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43 minutes ago, tomek said:

Removing lower bearing from pinion was PITA. Fucker was really, really tight. Had to buy puller from HF.

 

A common way to remove it is to cut part way through it then split it with a chisel.

 

Same for pressed bearings on a wheel hub, nobody bothers with a puller since it's being thrown out anyway.

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2 hours ago, tomek said:

Removing lower bearing from pinion was PITA. Fucker was really, really tight. Had to buy puller from HF.

 

https://www.harborfreight.com/bearing-separator-and-puller-set-62593.html?_br_psugg_q=bearing+puller

 

FYI, before you try to use it replace hardware on extensions with something made from the steel, supplied "nuts" will slide off like a butter.

 

Initial attempt was  fail even when after heating inner race.  Tossed pinion to the freezer for 20 hrs. Repeated ritual with blow torch and it finally moved.   


I've always used that type of tool in addition to a press.  Use that to "lip" under the bearing/race and use the press to do the hard work.  Never had an issue, but then again, never used a harbor freight version of that particular tool.  Do have a harbor freight press though.

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Tool is OK, but those 4 small nuts on the left side - don`t bother, they won`t hold any real pressure.

 Get something decent from hardware store. Good news they are so soft threads on extensions are still in good shape.

I also used different top part, just happened to have puller that would work. The tread on the main bolt is too coarse, it reduces the leverage.   

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5 hours ago, superhawk996 said:

A common way to remove it is to cut part way through it then split it with a chisel.

But adds to the chance of dinging the shaft, right?

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He knows everything the very bestest without even seeing thing in person. He always has way to come up with useless piece of advice. Very annoying, that's why he is on ignore.

 

I did think about it but there was no way to cut thru rear thick part of bearing without posibility of damaging shaft and/or gear part of the pinion.

Even if you somehow manage to cut inner race there would be  issue with securing the pinion before giving a whack with chisel. You certainly don't wanna rest gear part on anything. It is very brittle. 

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