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FI Indicator Light on 2001 XX on.


TFT
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the hits just keep on coming!!

I started and rode Jackie's 2001XX yesterday and the FI light came on and stayed on. The bike ran fine, no problems.

I have started her bike and let it run numerous times in the past few months and no problem.

Yesterday, a problem. 

I looked in the manual on troubleshooting and it stated as possibilities:

1. Short circuit in the malfunction indicator wire

2. Short circuit in service check connector wire

3. Faulty ECM

 

Any suggestions on what to do?

 

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 the fi light on my 99 staying on was due to corrosion in the test plug.

 

this is from the cbrxx .com forum 

 

Fuel Injection ( EFI ) Fault Diagnosis and Checking



If the fuel injection system ( FI ) warning light on the instrument cluster illuminates when the motorcycle is running, a fault has occurred in the fuel injection/ignition system. The engine control module ( ECM ) will store the relevant fault code in its memory and this code can be read as follows using the self-diagnostic mode of the ECM. While the engine is running and the motorcycle is being used, the FI light will come on and stay on. When the motorcycle is on its side stand and the is running below 5000 revs the FI light will flash, the pattern of the flashes indicating the code for the fault the ECM has identified.

If the engine can be started, place the motorcycle on its side stand and then start the engine and allow it to idle. Whilst the engine is idling, observe the FI warning light on the instrument cluster.

If the engine cannot be started, or to check for any stored fault codes even though the FI light is not illuminated, remove the seat to gain access to the fuel injectionsystem service check wiring connector, which is a white 3-pin ( 2 wire ) single sided connector inside the rubber boot close to the tail light.
Ensure the ignition is switched OFF then bridge the outer terminals of the service check connector with an auxiliary piece of wire.
With the terminals connected make sure the kill switch is in the run position then turn the ignition ON and observe the FI warning light.
If there are no stored codes the FI light will come on and stay on.
If there are stored fault codes, the FI light will flash.

The fuel injection system warning light uses long ( 1.3 second ) and short ( .5 second ) flashes to give out the fault code. A long flash is used to indicate the first digit of a double digit fault code ( i.e. 10 or above ). If a single digit fault code is being displayed ( i.e. 1 to 9 ) there will be a number of short flashes equivalent to the code being displayed.
For example, two long flashes followed by five short flashes indicate the fault code number twenty five. If there is more than one fault code, there will be a gap before the other codes are revealed ( the codes will be revealed in order , starting with the lowest and ending with the highest ). Once all the code(s) have been revealed, the ECM will continuously run through the code(s) stored in its memory, revealing each one in turn with a short gap between them.

Once the fault has been identified and corrected, it will be necessary to reset the system by removing the fault code from the ECM memory. To do this, ensure the ignition is switched OFF then bridge the terminals of the service check connector as before.
Turn the ignition ON then disconnect the bridge wire from the service check connector.
When the wire is removed the FI light should come on for approximately five seconds, during which time the bridging wire must be reconnected.
The warning light should start to flash when the bridging wire is reconnected, indicating that all the fault codes have been erased. However, if the light flashes twenty times then the memory has not been erased and the procedure should be repeated.
Turn off the ignition then remove the bridging wire.
Check the operation of the warning light ( in some cases it may be necessary to repeat the erasing procedure more than once ) then replace the seat. image.gif.3359e9f74f3bd6fbef833ee8b3140020.gif
 

FAULT CODE


 
SYMPTOM


 
POSSIBLE CAUSE


1
Engine runs normally
Faulty MAP sensor or wiring
2
Engine runs normally
Faulty MAP sensor / vacuum hose
7
Engine difficult to start at low temp.
Faulty coolant temp. sensor or wiring
8
Poor throttle response
Faulty throttle position sensor or wiring
9
Engine runs normally
Faulty intake air temp. sensor or wiring
10 ( see note 1)
Engine runs poor at high altitude
Faulty atmospheric pressure sensor
11
engine operates normally
Faulty speed sensor or wiring
12
Engine does not start
Faulty no. 1 fuel injector
13
Engine does not start
Faulty no. 2 fuel injector
14
Engine does not start
Faulty no. 3 fuel injector
15
Engine does not start
Faulty no. 4 fuel injector
18
Engine does not start
Faulty cam pulse gen.r or wiring
19
Engine does not start
Faulty ignition pulse gen. or wiring
20
engine operates normally
Faulty EPROM in ECM
25
engine operates normally
Faulty knock sensor or wiring



The following codes are only applicable to models with catalytic converter.

21
engine operates normally
faulty oxygen sensor
23
engine operates normally
Faulty oxygen sensor heat element


Note 1.
code 10 is only on the 1999 to 2000 X and Y models

 

 

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I'm shocked at the options in the book.  Under the tail near the ECM is a diagnostic wire, you ground it with the key on and the light should flash a fault code to indicate what it sees to be the problem.  I don't remember if the codes are in the book, I think I googled mine.

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On 1/20/2022 at 9:24 AM, TFT said:

Any suggestions on what to do?

Send it to a mechanic. If you can't clean a carb this is certainly beyond you.

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  • 2 months later...

Late update:

I put some seafoam in the gas and rode the bike for about 20 miles and it cleared the FI light.

The bike idles and runs perfectly. I switch between the two bikes and ride then a couple times a week. 

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On 4/11/2022 at 8:18 AM, superhawk996 said:

I can't imagine seafoam fixing it.  If the bike has O2 sensors, maybe, but it's a stretch.

I could see the intermittent connection of the test plug doing it.

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16 minutes ago, superhawk996 said:

Maybe the gas tank has a leak and it dripped seafood onto the connector.

Awesome. But you of all people know that you clean that with acetone.

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I can’t explain it, when I first started the bike and rode it around the block, no FI light. The next time I started it to ride it the light came on. I rode it a few miles with the light on, then decided to add some seafoam to the gas that had been sitting in the tank for over a year and rode it for about 20 miles constantly changing speeds and then a high speed run and the light turned off. Possibly a Christmas Miracle. :) 

I’ve ridden it at least half a dozen times since then an it runs perfectly.

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I need to ride both bikes long enough to empty the tanks of the old gas. I’m heading back to AZ in a couple of weeks and that will be at the top of my to-do list.

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1 hour ago, superhawk996 said:

Sometimes autocorrect leads to entertainment, thanks for taking the bait and running with it!

 

I did it just for the halibut. 

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17 hours ago, TFT said:

I need to ride both bikes long enough to empty the tanks of the old gas. I’m heading back to AZ in a couple of weeks and that will be at the top of my to-do list.


Not that I’ve left a bike for several months without riding…except MAYBE in 2013…but I always use B-12 Chemtool, particularly before winter, so the fuel has it in the tank.  Never had an issue.

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Mine has sat for months many times over with no prep.  Never had an issue.  My Superhawk carbs did get clogged from sitting.  Seems a bit odd since I expect the SH had larger jets so they should be harder to clog.

 

Reminds me that I meant to post about my lifepo4 battery, pretty sure it's a Battery Tender brand.  Two weeks ago when I unearthed the bike for a ride after months of sitting I thought I should probably put a charger on it before the long cranking it's going to take to fill the carbs.  Every time I do it I think, 'fuck, I really shouldn't be so lazy and stress the battery like this", then just hold the button 'till it comes to life.  This time I put a volt meter on it in preparation to charge and it was sitting at over 13V so I didn't bother.  It does seem to crank slower than when I put a new Lifepo4 in the '01 Bird.  Not obviously slow, just more like a decent 'normal' battery, not like a fresh lifepo4.  I don't know the age of the battery, guessing 3-5 years.

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