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mikesail

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mikesail last won the day on November 24 2015

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About mikesail

  • Birthday 01/19/1959

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    1969 cl450 1975 XL350 50's cushman scooter 01 aprilia mille for track 01 bird for LSR

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    North Tustin, Southern California

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  1. There are multiple issues to consider. Here is a quick shot at a list. A shunt regulator does get very hot , as the power it absorbs can be quite high and increases with RPM. High temperatures do lead to accelerated failure rates in solid state electronics. So putting lower load lighting on your bike actually increases the heat load in the RR unit. Power loss; a permanent magnet alternator with a shunt regulator will always be at maximum load for a given RPM. As the voltage from the stator is directly proportional to RPM, higher revs will mean higher frag on the cranksh
  2. It is a simple procedure to open the lock and remove the disk tumblers. This leaves you with a stock looking gas cap lock which can be opened easily with the key or any other blade.
  3. The air horns use a rotary vane compressor, the delay is fairly negligible.
  4. Do note that the usual R/R is a shunt regulator, and will increase the current thru the alternator coil depending on RPM. The newer mosfet R/R units I think are a series regulator so you would not have this issue. If this bike still has the coils dry I would be cautious about using a shunt. Are you sure the ignition trigger is grounded? I would expect it to be floating. Still a single point connection between two floating alternator circuits should be fine. I suspect the original coil for the light is designed to be current limited, but as you are using a lower wattage
  5. I've had this jacket about 5 years, though I only wore it for a couple months. Solid leather with no perforations, it has armor for the elbows and shoulders. It is pretty clean and unscuffed, the only defect is that the zipper pull came off. I put a leather strip on in it's place. I am 6'5" and about 200 lbs, it fits pretty well with the waist straps tight. Asking $75
  6. Actually once you have a turbo then altitude is your friend as the air resistance is lessening while the HP is able to stay constant. HP of course is totally a function of boost, but this can be set as desired.
  7. I totally agree that laminar flow would lessen the heat transfer. I'm confident that any engine coolant is well up into the turbulent flow region due to velocity, and it would take some very special plumbing to achieve laminar flow even at a much lower flow rate. I think you are stretching to find a "cascade" effect, until some non-linear phenomenon occurs all effects are proportional. I'll try to see if I can find a reliable reference for the cavitation issue. I can tell you about a very high powered turbo motor thirty years ago that we pressurized to 30 psi in the cooling syste
  8. I'm not in any contest here, just trying to make clear what the real issues are, sorry that I came off that way. Turbulence of flow is a given in any of these cooling systems, if the flow were laminar then the heat transfer might lessen. Regarding the missing thermostat, I have read (from a water pump manufacturer) that the pump in this case will cavitate and thus lose pumping capability. Have not seen this myself but the story is quite reasonable. Certainly with a bypass thermostat missing you would have a serious problem just due to the bypass circuit being open.
  9. Bird does have a bypass thermostat, at least for the redbird and the 2003.
  10. Sorry but not true. Should I call UCLA and give back my engineering degree? The heat flow relationships are true regardless of velocity, the part that changes is the delta temp in the parts of the system. At zero water flow all the heat stays where it is generated and the radiator is at it's coldest. At infinite water flow all parts of the fluid are the same temperature, this temperature being set by the thermal resistance of the entire system and the heat source/sink temps. At any water flow between zero and infinite there will be a temperature gradient across the radiator as well as a gradi
  11. Will you stop repeating this idiocy! The speed of the water flow has NOTHING to do with the heat transfer. Yes the coolant will be at a lower temperature if it moves slowly through the radiator, but guess what? The coolant in the engine will be that much hotter when it exits the motor cancelling out the effect. This age old fallacy came about when people would remove their thermostat to improve cooling and found the overheating problem got worse. Thinking that the water was moving too fast when in reality the water pump was cavitating and not pumping effectively.
  12. thermostat switches which directly control a fan have a large inductive load which causes the contacts to erode every time they open. Definitely a wear item.
  13. just as a point of reference for this topic, I believe that the oil cooler is supplied with a separate low pressure feed, it does not carry the high pressure supply line. Thus most any oil proof hose should work in a pinch. Most any motor vehicle plumbing can be upgraded with pieces from a racing hose supply shop, and often at a good price compared to OEM.
  14. The first article by Mike Nixon is very good indeed. Pay attention to what he says about valve seats especially. There was an article recently about dimpling intake bores to look like a golf ball, claimed a dramatic increase in air flow.
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