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mikesail last won the day on May 22

mikesail had the most liked content!


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About mikesail

  • Birthday 01/19/1959

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    1969 cl450 1975 XL350 50's cushman scooter 01 aprilia mille for track 01 bird for LSR

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    North Tustin, Southern California

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  1. Drill and tap it to the next convenient size. A machine screw won't cause much expansion and should give a good pull.
  2. I stuck in a "strehl" airhorn, works well.
  3. No, I understood. While I would expect a spike in 12v supply to be most likely on most bikes, I see that the CBX has a field coil regulated alternator. Unlike the RR unit of the XX and most sport bikes, these are far less likely to spike intermittently. A failure in this type of system would far more likely be zero output. Now if the problem is in the same location each time, then I would agree with furbird that the HV is in fact hitting the ignition module and killing it. The trick to recognize is that the HV is not capable of melting the unit, but only causing the failure which then allows the 12v to flow continuously and burn it. The HV fault will be hard to prove in most cases, sometimes it can be seen as a crack leading from the HV lead back to a terminal. But it could be internal as well.
  4. Without looking, I would lay money that it is a problem with the 12v charging system. When i get home I'll look at the manual pages posted.
  5. Locking a convertible just adds a new top to the damage done.
  6. Can't hurt. Might be useful if the fit isn't too tight, occasionally will see a heli coil walk out. Not the end of the world there either.
  7. Most bikes have switches which are unsealed and can easy be taken apart for cleaning. Pretty sure the bird is the same. There is just a little copper bar that rocks with actuation, just wipe off and scotch Brite the contacts and it'll be fine. The grease used on the switch pivot seems to spread around over time.
  8. The problem of gas varnish clogging jets has nothing to do with ethanol. It's been known to me since the 70's, long before this additive. Anyone with experience who has worked on vehicles can tell you this.
  9. Utter gibberish. Anyone who takes off the positive cable first has proven himself a fool. Anyone who takes off both cables has proven he doesn't understand electricity. Intelligent rational people don't act like this guy, just walk away.
  10. Utter gibberish. Anyone who takes off the positive cable first has proven himself a fool. Anyone who takes off both cables has proven he doesn't understand electricity. Intelligent rational people don't act like this guy, just walk away.
  11. Husky from home depot and kobalt from Lowes are well made and warrantied. Yet the number of times that comes up really makes warranty a non issue. Another contender in budget tools is Crescent, I bought a combo wrench and socket set that has both metric and SAE. At Costco it was dirt cheap, they have impressed with a super finish that stays clean over the years. Well made as far as I can see, nice shape too. I grew up buying Craftsman, certainly ok stuff, but the smooth wrenches from Snapon and others are so much better to clean and are slimmer for the rare times that matters. If the six point vs twelve point mattered, you would already know what you need there. Really a non issue. A stubby ratchet is really cool when needed, like once a year. Ratcheting wrench seems to come into play slightly more often. A swivel headed ratchet is well worth getting in my thinking.
  12. The jacket marked "sample" is made by First Gear. I had one for years, really well made. The owners then created "Scorpion" whose helmet I've had for years now.
  13. Prop 13 is under serious political pressure, the democrats hate it. It's been around since 1973 or so, so there are many properties which pay vastly different tax than their neighbor.
  14. Prob 13 allows for a 2 percent increase maximum per year. House passed to kids and grandkids can maintain the old tax basis.
  15. There are multiple issues to consider. Here is a quick shot at a list. A shunt regulator does get very hot , as the power it absorbs can be quite high and increases with RPM. High temperatures do lead to accelerated failure rates in solid state electronics. So putting lower load lighting on your bike actually increases the heat load in the RR unit. Power loss; a permanent magnet alternator with a shunt regulator will always be at maximum load for a given RPM. As the voltage from the stator is directly proportional to RPM, higher revs will mean higher frag on the crankshaft. Given that the spec is around 300 Watts, the HP loss should be less than 1hp though this might very a lot over the RPM range. Stator current; as the shunt RR shorts out the coils to limit voltage, the current through the stator coils will be quite high. I suspect that this is the primary reason for the stator to fail, as the unit should otherwise last decades like any other brushless induction motor or generator. Stator connector; it is quite common to see the stator connections on bikes with shunt RR's to be damaged by heat. The high current is too much for the simple faston type connections and they tend to degrade badly over time. Series regulators; More complicated electronics, as they need to synchronously switch a mosfet switching device. Likely will have more power available at idle if designed well.
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