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Spiegler Lines (problems... now with photos)


XXBIRD

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Just spoke with Gary at Univerity Motors, he has calls into Speigler with regards to Ruhi's and others problems. He assured me that he will do whatever it takes to make it right.

I expressed concern to Gary that there seems to be an issue with fitment pertaining to proper lengh and what was the policy of returns and he again assures me he would do whatever it takes to make it right as he wants to keep customers for the long term. I told him I will request to return my kit after the smoke clears if Spiegler can't resolve the problems.

He also asked if Dale has posted any info.

Bottom line is it looks like we are waiting for resolution from Spiegler

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There were few lines, that Tim and I had to unbolt and switch ends...

The instructions suck and don't tell you which end goes where.

This is key. If the line doesn't seem to fit correctly, my guess is it may be oriented wrong, either end for end or the wrong side of the banjos is down. Some lines also required rotating of the banjos to get the lines to "relax" and go where they should.

There was a point when Peter and I were sure one of the rear lines was too long- flipped it over, rotated one of the fittings a bit and it was fine.

Dale's photos were way more helpful than the instructions that came with the kit, major props to him for making them available- use them.

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I spoke to Gary as well. I ask him to get the specification for the line lengths from Ma tee us (sp) and email me so I can post them here so we can compare kit to kit uniformity. I also asked for their QC tolerance, i.e. + - 2mm etc.

Clutch and the two fronts will vary depending on bar risers but the rest should be the same length.

Dan

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Matey, if you compare your photo to Dale's, you can see that your lines are reversed....

True but no cigar, yet :wink: I choose to do so that the long line would have the longest path to fit in as good as possible. Regardless, I went ahead and swapped the locations. Picture below shows how much extra length is left out in this scenerio. This is still despite of the banjo for Line 2 is rotated to go around from outside to make the path longer. If it were to be like the originals, it shoudl have been inside which makes it even longer. In summary, I would call this is a "longer than it should be line". And, yes, indeed all the lines with double banjo ends required one end rotating. I rotated them such that the bolts would match the surface without twisting/bending so I could screw the banjo bolts by hand all the way to the end without binding.

line_1-2_1.jpg

line_1-2_2.jpg

line_1-2_3.jpg

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OK. Here is the beef. Make your own stew as you like.

I've had talked to Matthias at Spiegler. We went through all the concerns I raised one by one. He states that the lines can hold up to 400lb, so stretching them as in the case of Line #5 is no biggy. For the long lines, he suggests them to tuck away or rearoute them to take the slack. For the other short ones going over the steering head neck, he suggests them route at the shortest possible path rather than trying to follow the clamp locations. Or route them behind the triple clamp rather than from front like OEM lines were. [My note: You could do this for the Line #3 but if you also do the front master Line #6 to 3-way manifold, there is not enough room to make full right turn with the handlebar.] Line #7 which is the one with the mid-eyelet, he says it is OK even it clearly pushes against the fork but he acknowledges that it could have been better. When it comes to colors, he states that the batch of materials he gets are different so the difference from line to line. [My note: I don't buy this because if you know that there is a problem with the line colors from batch to batch then make all of the lines for one set from teh same spool of lines.] He also says even the banjo colors don't match from batch to batch eventhough they are supposedly made with the exact recipe. He had nothing to say about the 3-way manifold not being "black" as it was supposed to be. With the bleed valves, he was taken by surprise since he didn't expect they would be wrong. The ones I've got are M 8 x 1.00 (two of them) and M 7 x 1.00 (five of them). They all are supposed to be M 8 x 1.25 with an overall length of 27.50mm (theirs is 27.99mm). At this point, I need to insert a FAQ section from an earlier post: :wink:

Q: Are we going to get the right sizes if we order all four?

A: No, I thought I'd make sure we got all the wrong sizes, and just have youse guys pound them in with a sledge hammer.

In my case they just dropped into the holes and there were no need to hammer them in except one of them. :lol:

Matthias will replace them with the correct ones but he needs to receive the wrong ones first so he can ship the replacements. I am not going to wait them to arrive to be able to use them in two years when I change the brake fluid. I need them now and right now, not next week not tomorrow. So, they will go back. I took pictures and measurements of all seven bleeders with thread sizes and all and e-mailed him for his future reference for a 2002 bike.

After all, mine is going to be like it is. I still have to spend few more hours trying every possible other way to make them look right and torque everthing up, fill and bleed the good old way... I may post some other pictures if I could come up with any pointers for the ones who has not started the work yet but otherwise I am out. Good luck to everyone...

I need few of these right now (no, I didn't pick them from the Grolsch truck crash site and the holder is the courtesy of University Motors):

normal_grolsch.jpg

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That's a pretty shitty answer about the banjos and line colors.

Why don't they make the lines the right length to run where they should?

I haven't even started to install mine and I'm thinking about sending the package back to Gary and disputing the credit card charge.

For what's it's worth my lines measure. +- 1/4" to be generous

1. 27.5" 2. 23 3/4" 3. 54" 4. 7 1/4" 5. 6 7/8" 6. 19.5"

7. 19 1/4" 8. 18 1/2" 9. 60 3/4" Clutch 41/3/4"

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I hope I don't seem like too much of an asshole here, but I'm sure glad I bought my Galfer lines a couple of years ago. I had none of the quality problems you guys are encountering.

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Assholes!!!

If you want, I can post pictures of my stock set up!!! :twisted: :twisted:

Seriously guys, I know how frustrating this can be, hopefully Wilbers comes through with shining colors VERY SOON!!!

MaXX

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Hello gents -

I've been on the road quite a bit this past week, and haven't been able to check the forum much lately.

I still have my stock brake lines from when I went through the install. I can try to take some measurements tonight.

Bummer that some of you are having trouble installing the lines. The LBS system is quite a bit more complex than installing this kit on a regular bike. Patience is definitely indicated in a number of steps.

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Still no response from Dale on this thread. Has anyone talked to him or know if he ran into similar issues during the install? :?:

Nope, I had no issues installing any of the lines. Nor did I have to grind off any protrusion off the Delay Valve.

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I finally got all mine put together last nite. While it took a lot of long looks and furtive smoke breaks, I got it figured out. As was stated, stock line locations won't work for all of em, but I found the kit to be adequate. Adequate, but not perfect. Which I'm a bit miffed about considering the money spent.

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Still no response from Dale on this thread. Has anyone talked to him or know if he ran into similar issues during the install? :?:

Nope, I had no issues installing any of the lines.

Thanks Dale. Did you find you made any routing modifications or were you able to pretty much duplicate the stock layout?

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Thanks Dale. Did you find you made any routing modifications or were you able to pretty much duplicate the stock layout?

Followed the stock layout exactly. Everything fit perfectly. Yes, some of the angles of the banjo fittings had to be adjusted, which is why Spiegler provides those little blue clamps to perform this task.

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Based on my experience with the set I have received, there is no doubt that when the lines are cut during the manufacturing process, there were mistakes made. If the line is for a very short connection such as from right caliper to 3-way manifold, 1/4" of a difference dictates whether if fits or not. Line #6 for the front master to manifold I received was 1" short. I am not going to go over all of them but it is obvious to me that they are not consistently accurate. Also, there could have been alternative banjos with different angles choosen to make it easier/better. The good thing is that if there is any problem or if you think there is a problem, both Gary and Matthias are so willing to help to sort it out for you beyond expectations.

How about the bleed valves, Dale? Does your bike has two M8x1.00 and five M7x1.00 valves? My bike (2002) has all seven of them M8x1.25.

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How about the bleed valves, Dale? Does your bike has two M8x1.00 and five M7x1.00 valves?

Nope. My 2000 model actually took THREE (3) different size Speedbleeders:

Front two calipers: (total of 4) - SB7100S speedbleeders

Rear caliper: (total of 2) - SB8125LL speedbleeders

Clutch: (1) - SB7100S speedbleeder

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Nope. My 2000 model actually took THREE (3) different size Speedbleeders:

Front two calipers: (total of 4) - SB7100S speedbleeders

Rear caliper: (total of 2) - SB8125LL speedbleeders

Clutch: (1) - SB7100S speedbleeder

You mean TWO (2) different sizes?

(4+1) SB7100S (first kind)

(2) SB8125LL (the second kind)

So, they shipped it right based on what they knew of, five of the smaller ones and two larger ones. Apparently then, it has changed sometime from 2000 to 2002. Mine all are definetly M8x1.25 which is speedbleeder part number SB8125. But since SB8125 is not available in SS, the next one is SB8125L which is about 5mm longer than standard ones.

normal_valves-1.jpg

normal_valves-2.jpg

normal_valves-3.jpg

normal_valves-4.jpg

normal_valves-5.jpg

normal_ALL_BLEEDERS.jpg

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With the caps to the reservoirs on , and I don't squeeze the handles/peddle could I pull out a bleeder valve to check it against what I was shipped without fluid going everywhere. Being quick about it, finger over hole, that sort of thing? I realize I may get a small bubble there at the bleeder, but a quick bleed should take care of it.

Seems do-able.

What do you wrenches think?

I'd like to find out if I have the right bleeders before I do the full install .

db

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