blackhawkxx Posted August 17 Share Posted August 17 1 hour ago, ironmike said: I remember aftermarket sprockets with similar threaded-holes designed/intended for the application of generic puller assemblies--no idea if that's the intention here. That was my first thought. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RXX Posted August 17 Share Posted August 17 If by offset you mean distance from center of tooth to face of sprocket, I measured 0.25 mm. The center of the OEM, at least the one I am replacing, is not raised. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CALCXX Posted August 18 Share Posted August 18 (edited) No Sir, the center of the sprocket teeth measured to the engine case should be the same as the OEM sprocket to align with the rear sprocket. Your new sprocket looks flush with no stand-off. I hope I am wrong and the new sprocket aligns. The threaded holes on the new sprocket are for a retainer. That makes me wonder what they sold you. Phillip, it's been many years since I replaced the sprocket on my XX. I will go out to the shop and look at the old OEM sprocket. Brb The OEM 17T has raised center both sides. The sprocket will "float" on the shaft some. If the center of the new sprocket is the same as the OEM, it won't "float" beyond engineered limits. Please measure the center (thickness) of both sprockets. If the same, should be ok. Still scratching my head why the threaded holes for a retainer? Edited August 18 by CALCXX Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CALCXX Posted August 18 Share Posted August 18 (edited) Is this what you have? Photo angle throws me off. Bottomline, if the center measures the same, should be ok. https://www.googleadservices.com/pagead/aclk?sa=L&ai=DChcSEwjEl872i_-HAxX80sIEHUi_IDIYABApGgJwdg&ae=2&co=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIxJfO9ov_hwMV_NLCBB1IvyAyEAQYBCABEgK2JPD_BwE&ohost=www.google.com&cid=CAASJeRoaBPafW7YybihB9LIyu-T6sbmKshPwUuemd91fn_SLVbbJKc&sig=AOD64_1lKPl5YII7UJULGyMT9nbcQuwXtg&ctype=5&q=&ved=2ahUKEwjYnsn2i_-HAxWpJTQIHWg-KPAQ9aACKAB6BAgEECc&nis=2&dct=1&suid=19935880735&adurl= Edited August 18 by CALCXX Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ironmike Posted August 19 Share Posted August 19 Sprockets with holes for retainers are usually intended for use on spline shafts with threaded ends to accept a securing nut (and often safety wire). In these cases, the sprocket does not float along the splines but is secured by the shaft's nut to a fixed position on the shaft. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockmeupto125 Posted August 19 Share Posted August 19 23 hours ago, CALCXX said: No Sir, the center of the sprocket teeth measured to the engine case [or countershaft shoulder] should be the same as the OEM sprocket to align with the rear sprocket......Please measure the center (thickness) of both sprockets. If the same, should be ok. This. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superhawk996 Posted August 20 Share Posted August 20 I think the holes are for a retainer plate, like this... A plate instead of a nut seems to be fairly common with dirtbikes. But more importantly, what's been talked about concerning the offset and width needs to be checked. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jon haney Posted August 21 Share Posted August 21 On 8/20/2024 at 9:04 AM, superhawk996 said: I think the holes are for a retainer plate, like this... A plate instead of a nut seems to be fairly common with dirtbikes. But more importantly, what's been talked about concerning the offset and width needs to be checked. That looks like the Grom sprocket. There has to be a notch (similar to a snap-ring groove) near the end of the shaft for that plate to sit in. I always wonder why a heavy-duty snap ring couldn't do the same job? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superhawk996 Posted August 22 Share Posted August 22 8 hours ago, jon haney said: That looks like the Grom sprocket. There has to be a notch (similar to a snap-ring groove) near the end of the shaft for that plate to sit in. I always wonder why a heavy-duty snap ring couldn't do the same job? I'm sure it could, just like a snap lock type master link works perfectly fine, 'till it don't. No clue if a snap ring would be less reliable than the locking plate, I don't recall ever seeing one that used a snap ring so there might be a reason. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jon haney Posted August 22 Share Posted August 22 18 hours ago, superhawk996 said: I'm sure it could, just like a snap lock type master link works perfectly fine, 'till it don't. No clue if a snap ring would be less reliable than the locking plate, I don't recall ever seeing one that used a snap ring so there might be a reason. Plus, the two bolts can be loc-tited, and take a tool that is already in the tool pouch. Can you imagine finding a pair of snap-ring pliers in a motorcycle tool pouch? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockmeupto125 Posted August 22 Share Posted August 22 Have you found a snap ring that can't be removed with a screwdriver? Snap rings do a great job holding things on a shaft, like gears and such. But those things are in a controlled area. I think the premise behind not using a snap ring or retainer ring on the drive sprocket might have something to do with the potential for it to be dislodged by an environmental hazard, and subject to failure from corrosion or other ghostly nasties. A driven sprocket on the loose can do a whole bunch of damage to machinery and fleshy bits. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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