rockmeupto125 Posted March 8 Author Share Posted March 8 As long as I have a hub, spokes, and three points of contact for the tire it will be fine. It's not a high speed balance, it's just to verify the light/heavy point of the tire, presumably already marked. I'm sure an abrasive disk will go through an aluminum wheel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomek Posted March 9 Share Posted March 9 On 3/8/2024 at 7:09 AM, SwampNut said: Changing tires on a 747 and 777. 250nm, that's a lot of ugga-dugga. And what happens when you get it wrong. At SFO, yesterday. Should have used air impact driver set up to 20000 ftlbs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomek Posted March 9 Share Posted March 9 (edited) 15 hours ago, rockmeupto125 said: As long as I have a hub, spokes, and three points of contact for the tire it will be fine. It's not a high speed balance, it's just to verify the light/heavy point of the tire, presumably already marked. I'm sure an abrasive disk will go through an aluminum wheel. Not worth it. I mean, do the wheels, but tires are not worth the time. Also, the only way to ensure the tire is centered on the rim is to mount on complete rim, and inflate the tire. Your way would not be accurate enough. 5 bucks says. Edited March 9 by tomek Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superhawk996 Posted March 9 Share Posted March 9 15 hours ago, rockmeupto125 said: As long as I have a hub, spokes, and three points of contact for the tire it will be fine. It's not a high speed balance, it's just to verify the light/heavy point of the tire, presumably already marked. I'm sure an abrasive disk will go through an aluminum wheel. I know grinding wheels clog up, not sure what a disc will do. Guessing it'll clog and have to melt it's way through, but it might work ok. 3 points was my thought too. I've had some tires that needed no weight when aligning the dot to the stem, seems to often work. The tire shop I use ignores the positioning, the guy said it's pointless. I asked them to do it when they mounted my motorhome tires, apparently one of the guys working on them didn't get the memo. The ones that weren't aligned needed the most weight. I showed the owner, they still don't care. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockmeupto125 Posted March 9 Author Share Posted March 9 I'm not measuring the degree of accuracy, just whether the marked point is indeed accurate. I've cut up wheels before just to have the hub as a mounting point for checking brake disks. Not that much metal in them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomek Posted March 10 Share Posted March 10 I think you suffer from way too much time to kill.😁 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockmeupto125 Posted March 11 Author Share Posted March 11 That is sooo far from reality... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superhawk996 Posted March 11 Share Posted March 11 A while back I did some reading/listening about the red and yellow dots, I found a lot of contradictory and some illogical information. Yellow is the lightest point of the tire, that was mostly undisputed. Red indicates the highest or lowest part of the tire, that was disputed a lot. If you have only a yellow dot, align it to the stem, mostly undisputed. If it has a red dot and your wheel has a dot, notch, or other marking that shows the high or low spot of the wheel (high vs. low was disputed here also) it should be aligned with the red dot on the tire and ignore the yellow. If the tire has red and yellow and your wheel has no marking, or you can't find it, align the red to the stem and ignore the yellow. That one seems illogical to me. If one wanted to perfect his mounting I think he should focus on the radial runnout of the tire/wheel assembly and ignore the balance since imbalance can be cured with weights. But, getting the runout dialed in would take more work so focussing on the balance point makes sense. I've encountered a few car/truck tires with massive runout. I've never seen it with bike tires, but have dealt with way fewer of them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomek Posted March 11 Share Posted March 11 Shittest, cheapest the brand, more runout. Usually, not always, of course. I swapped my summer tires from bent rims onto donor's car good rims with shitty tires. Some Pirellis. All of them had massive runout. Nothing on my Goodyears. Why I had to swap? That was back in November. Some fuckhead going in opposite direction turned left into my path at intersection. Long story short I went over the substantial curb at around 50 mph. Some air time, huge jump, scrapped underbody and towing hitch. Car survived intact except for rims bent. All of them. They build them good. Volvos. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superhawk996 Posted March 12 Share Posted March 12 10 hours ago, tomek said: Shittest, cheapest the brand, more runout. Usually, Yup. Most of the high runout tires I've seen were generic, but I had a set of name brand, pretty sure it was BFG, that were bad. One was horrible, one kinda shitty, and the other two not great. The upside is that I got warrantee on them and I bought them used, probably why the guy put them on CL with lots of tread. The model was no longer made so they gave me MSRP credit toward a new set of MTs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SwampNut Posted March 12 Share Posted March 12 6 minutes ago, superhawk996 said: pretty sure it was BFG, that were bad. BFG ATs, not the most recent but previous versions, were the most fucked up tires I've seen. I thought the road force machine was going to blow up, they stopped it and just replaced two. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superhawk996 Posted March 12 Share Posted March 12 The Jeep I might buy has BFG ATs, luckily they're worn out. '05 LJ that came to have me check the leaking oil drain plug today. She said KBB was $6K but didn't think she could get that much because of the various stuff it needs so I offered her $5k. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SwampNut Posted March 12 Share Posted March 12 1 hour ago, superhawk996 said: Jeep I might buy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TOXXIC Posted March 14 Share Posted March 14 On 3/11/2024 at 6:27 PM, superhawk996 said: The Jeep I might buy has BFG ATs, luckily they're worn out. '05 LJ that came to have me check the leaking oil drain plug today. She said KBB was $6K but didn't think she could get that much because of the various stuff it needs so I offered her $5k. It must be super clapped? I don’t think I’ve ever seen an LJ under $10K up here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superhawk996 Posted March 14 Share Posted March 14 6 hours ago, TOXXIC said: It must be super clapped? I don’t think I’ve ever seen an LJ under $10K up here. She said book value is $6k but that she didn't think she'd get it with the problems it has so I offered her the 5. She got back to me yesterday and said she needs to give her mom $7k for it, I'm considering it, but it's less attractive at 7. Odd that book is so low, even normal TJs on CL are listed well above that. It's got a few issues, but probably still worth it. Just over 100k miles. The paint is ratty, but the body is pretty good. It's kinda silver/gold-ish color. A while back she had the grill and cowl painted dark green and got green pin striping which is now faded, some of the factory paint is shot. Interior looks great, tho I didn't poke deep into it. It's a low optioned model, no power amenities, no tow package. Tires are nearly done. A few leaks that are fairly easy to fix. The two questionable problems are the A/C and a fault for the torque converter clutch. The TCC fault might be a simple wiring problem or a trans. out repair. The A/C appears to be a leak by her description, but don't know. She paid $2k a while back to get it working and said it didn't last. The trans is my main concern, if it needs a rebuild that would eat up a lot of the value. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SwampNut Posted March 14 Share Posted March 14 It just hit me that absolute garbage vehicles which should be scrapped are selling for $10k if they have a Jeep logo. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TOXXIC Posted March 14 Share Posted March 14 2 hours ago, superhawk996 said: She said book value is $6k but that she didn't think she'd get it with the problems it has so I offered her the 5. She got back to me yesterday and said she needs to give her mom $7k for it, I'm considering it, but it's less attractive at 7. Odd that book is so low, even normal TJs on CL are listed well above that. It's got a few issues, but probably still worth it. Just over 100k miles. The paint is ratty, but the body is pretty good. It's kinda silver/gold-ish color. A while back she had the grill and cowl painted dark green and got green pin striping which is now faded, some of the factory paint is shot. Interior looks great, tho I didn't poke deep into it. It's a low optioned model, no power amenities, no tow package. Tires are nearly done. A few leaks that are fairly easy to fix. The two questionable problems are the A/C and a fault for the torque converter clutch. The TCC fault might be a simple wiring problem or a trans. out repair. The A/C appears to be a leak by her description, but don't know. She paid $2k a while back to get it working and said it didn't last. The trans is my main concern, if it needs a rebuild that would eat up a lot of the value. ‘First, I’ve never seen “book” buy a car, it’s a guide for a reason. Shame you didn’t take her up on the offer at $6K, no brainer. Wrecking yard trans for $500 would have been ideal. Way less sexy at $7K based on your description. Last week I helped a friend pick up some TJ Rubicon parts. Front and rear D44 axles with factory lockers, $4100 and the 241 Rubicon case 4:1 low gear ration cost him $2100. Guy imports rust buckets from Michigan and parts them in Seattle. He had an auto tranny for $500 and a complete motor for $600. We picked out a digital rear view mirror with temp and compass for $40. I pullee an aftermarket front bumper for $20. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superhawk996 Posted March 16 Share Posted March 16 On 3/14/2024 at 9:19 AM, TOXXIC said: Shame you didn’t take her up on the offer at $6K, no brainer. That wasn't a "buy now" price or I might have. No matter what was offered it was going to have to be run by mom, not sure why. On 3/14/2024 at 9:19 AM, TOXXIC said: Wrecking yard trans for $500 would have been ideal. If it's good. Even if it comes with a warrantee, I get stuck with pulling/swapping it. This code could be caused by fluid level/condition and might be an easy cure, or it needs a new converter, or maybe something else within the trans. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superhawk996 Posted March 16 Share Posted March 16 On 3/14/2024 at 7:49 AM, SwampNut said: It just hit me that absolute garbage vehicles which should be scrapped are selling for $10k if they have a Jeep logo. No, the garbage Jeeps go to the scrapyard. The Wranglers and XJs don't. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SwampNut Posted March 20 Share Posted March 20 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
azxr Posted March 20 Share Posted March 20 Is that labor for 170 to remove it from the bike, change the tire and put back on or just change the tire on the wheel? That seems like a lot either way but especially if only changing the tire on the wheel? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SwampNut Posted March 20 Share Posted March 20 On the bike, but yeah, insane. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superhawk996 Posted March 25 Share Posted March 25 I felt like I was porked for mounting the tires for the R5 at $40each. Their reason was that if they damaged my tubes they'd be on the hook to replace them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XXitanium Posted March 31 Share Posted March 31 https://www.facebook.com/reel/2139402499728407?mibextid=rS40aB7S9Ucbxw6v Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XXitanium Posted March 31 Share Posted March 31 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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