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Negative signaled brake light


SwampNut

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What in the actual fuck.  I cleaned up the tail/plate area on the bike, and added a lighted frame with turn and brake lights.  Of course, it expects 12v in to light it.  The bike has this on the tail light wires:

 

13.8v constant

Ground

11v constant (but goes to ground on braking)

13.8v constant

 

Sigh.

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0972R8QZS?smid=A19FRW2DHVT2CC&psc=1

 

 

 

 

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Or you could have just wired in a regular SPDT relay with four spade connectors and flipped that ground trigger to become a hot trigger (which is the same thing that $11 box will do) and been done with it a lot quicker.  I probably have 10 SPDT relays laying around here just for things like that; where the signal is a hot and I need it to be a ground or vice versa.

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20 minutes ago, Furbird said:

Or you could have just wired in a regular SPDT relay with four spade connectors and flipped that ground trigger to become a hot trigger (which is the same thing that $11 box will do) and been done with it a lot quicker.  I probably have 10 SPDT relays laying around here just for things like that; where the signal is a hot and I need it to be a ground or vice versa.

 

Want to know how I know that you don't understand the complexities and dangers of doing willy nilly shit on a computer controlled vehicle?

 

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Anytime you want to explain how an SPDT relay will backfeed into this system and cause an issue, I'm all ears.  Because all it's doing is taking that that signal wire and using it to "tell" the relay to engage and flip it on and off.  What's wired on one side of that relay has fuck-all to do with what's on the other side.  And if you have relays without a diode separating 85 and 86 then you just add it to prevent backfeed on that side.  So I don't see your problem.

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20 minutes ago, Furbird said:

Anytime you want to explain how an SPDT relay will backfeed into this system and cause an issue, I'm all ears.

 

I don't know where to start.  I don't know your level of understanding, which appears to be low, but you confidently think you know it all.  A collapsing magnetic field creates a backfeed voltage.  Whether that circuit cares, dunno.  A magnetic relay consumes current, and in the case of a regular auto relay, it's a lot.  Does it matter?  Dunno.  Do you?

 

22 minutes ago, Furbird said:

So I don't see your problem.

 

I know.  But I understand it enough to know what I don't know.  One is guaranteed safe, for $1.10, one is a maybe.  Even a probably safe.

 

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For all the sick measuring, I have to ask…

 

Quote

added a lighted frame with turn and brake lights


So, why didn’t it come with a control module to do all this.  Connect to 12v line and signal wires to tell it when to do what?  Sounds like you tried to do something other than run wires to the correct existing circuits.

 

Hell.  The Prius is heavily computerized.  My BMW is CANBus.  I made sure anything I wanted to add had a control module and/or was compatible before buying.  So, I’m having an issue wrapping my head around why you’re having as issue in the first place.

Edited by Zero Knievel
Damn autocorrect.
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5 hours ago, Zero Knievel said:

So, why didn’t it come with a control module to do all this.

 

Because most bikes, perhaps "zero" other bikes need it.

 

5 hours ago, Zero Knievel said:

I’m having an issue wrapping my head around why you’re having as issue in the first place.

 

The brake light wire goes to ground when the brake light goes on, the opposite of everything else.  The auxiliary lights need a 12v "on" input.  I can't switch their ground because it's shared with the plate light and turn signals.

 

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Working as expected.  Sprayed the circuit with conformal coating lacquer, and will wrap it in rubber tape.  A little liquid tape to protect the wires on the controller they do include, which does a TTL conversion for low (tail) and high (brake).

 

24423B23-D97A-4228-A293-66C1799423E7.jpeg

 

 

 

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18 hours ago, Zero Knievel said:

I’m having an issue wrapping my head around why you’re having as issue in the first place.

Stupid wetback wouldn't consult his vet.

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  • 6 months later...

Just talked to someone who tried to go the generic route, thinking it was a normal light.  He didn't fry the bike, but did fry the controller for his aftermarket LED lights and possibly the tail light flasher he wanted to install.  AND...we learned that regen is triggered by the weird output of the tail light.  LOL.  So when the flasher would activate, regen would flick on/off with the flash.

 

 

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Nice.

 

"regen would flick on/off with the flash."

I'm no expert, but this sounds like it could be an eye-opener on your bike.

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It would be annoying, but every electric bike I've encountered (bicycle, scooter, motorcycle) has relatively low regen.  I'm not sure why.  Also it's easy to let the smoke out of the fully customizable (DIY) motor controllers and motors if you turn it up too high.  I'm pretty confident that shifting the XX into a gear that winds it to 10k RPM would be stronger.

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