Tom Posted August 10, 2021 Share Posted August 10, 2021 I'm not exactly well versed in mechanics, but I've read few threads here on removing the fuel tank...and I would like to ask, maybe if someone knows a "trick", how to remove the fuel tank just enough so I can route a few wires from battery to the gauge cluster. Is removing the 2 bolts under the front part of the seat and lifting the tank a bit enough? Or should I take it all down, meaning fuel lines, vacuum lines etc. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockmeupto125 Posted August 10, 2021 Share Posted August 10, 2021 Here's what I would do if I just wanted to run a couple wires. *Remove the seat. *Remove the two bolts holding down the rear of the tank. *Pop the trim panels away from the tank in the rear. *Lift the rear of the tank an inch or two. It might be helpful to release the wiring to the tank from the clip on the left side of the tank mount. *Gently run a stiff wire from the rear to the front of the tank to grab and pull your more flexible wiring through. It's hot under there, be sure it is adequately insulated. *Put it back together. For the record, I rarely remove a tank. For almost any need, the tank can be removed from its mounts and rotated up in the front, then over to rest on its top (think backflip) with adequate padding. As I recall, it's helpful to disconnect the fuel pump and sending unit wiring and pull one or two vacuum hoses...nothing more. If you have some way or someone to support the tank upright, even that is unnecessary. No need to disconnect fuel lines or anything else. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zero Knievel Posted August 10, 2021 Share Posted August 10, 2021 (edited) 32 minutes ago, rockmeupto125 said: Here's what I would do if I just wanted to run a couple wires.... This. I often used a hammer or block of wood to lift the rear of the tank enough to route stuff under it. If you want to install quick disconnects on the fuel lines (there's a thread on when I did this), you can easily remove the fuel tank without having to drain it. http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/index.php?/topic/70322-diy-fuel-line-ez-disconnect/&tab=comments#comment-818895 Edited August 10, 2021 by Zero Knievel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RXX Posted August 10, 2021 Share Posted August 10, 2021 1 hour ago, Zero Knievel said: This. I often used a hammer or block of wood to lift the rear of the tank enough to route stuff under it. If you want to install quick disconnects on the fuel lines (there's a thread on when I did this), you can easily remove the fuel tank without having to drain it. http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/index.php?/topic/70322-diy-fuel-line-ez-disconnect/&tab=comments#comment-818895 Hey, man, thanks for the reminder..... I am going to replace air filter and plugs next week and forgot all about that shit that you did. I’ll take pictures to show how well your handiwork has held up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SwampNut Posted August 10, 2021 Share Posted August 10, 2021 If you have a place to hang a strap, you can "float" the tank too. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomek Posted August 10, 2021 Share Posted August 10, 2021 3 hours ago, SwampNut said: If you have a place to hang a strap, you can "float" the tank too. You can strap the tank to passenger grab handle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fizzy Posted August 10, 2021 Share Posted August 10, 2021 I used this method also. By hanging the front of the tank from the ceiling you get more access. However, this stresses the fuel line enough that mine started weeping from the crimp. For that reason I am not a fan of this method, especially if you still have original 20 Y/O lines. If you do this I recommend to double check for leaks before you ride off into the sunset. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ptxyz Posted August 11, 2021 Share Posted August 11, 2021 agree with the above about using a block or strap to get enough space under the tank for your needs. i love having quick disconnects to be able to easily remove the tank entirely. i had some plastic ones from motion pro that lasted a few years before leaking, then i found metal ones on this site; https://www.beemerboneyard.com/fuliqudise.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Posted August 11, 2021 Author Share Posted August 11, 2021 Thanks for the info guys. I was thinking on going with full removal of the tank, for the filter and all, but I really have no place to do it (bike is in a underground garage in my apartment building) so just propping up the tank a little bit to run couple of wires from battery to the cluster will be enough, I don't want to yank some rubber hose out and then forget where it went or second guess Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockmeupto125 Posted August 11, 2021 Share Posted August 11, 2021 13 hours ago, ptxyz said: agree with the above about using a block or strap to get enough space under the tank for your needs. i love having quick disconnects to be able to easily remove the tank entirely. i had some plastic ones from motion pro that lasted a few years before leaking, then i found metal ones on this site; https://www.beemerboneyard.com/fuliqudise.html There's a passel on that site. Which ones did you use? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ptxyz Posted August 11, 2021 Share Posted August 11, 2021 you'll want 1/4" & 5/16", i'd get both with 90 degree fittings. old thread when i did 'em (you can see a bit much of a bend in the fuel line for the straight fitting...); i'd order these; https://www.beemerboneyard.com/cpcqkdisconktm.html https://www.beemerboneyard.com/cpcqkdiscongs2.html 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Posted September 20, 2021 Author Share Posted September 20, 2021 (edited) Went over to my friends garage and we started with taking out those 2 bolts holding the tank. The idea was to lift it a bit and route wires. Then I saw the original loom routed down on the left side of the frame, and being unecessarily autistic about making things "proper" I tried to find a way to easily reach there so my wiring can be next to the original loom. And now we're here. Let's go! Edited September 20, 2021 by FTM 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SwampNut Posted September 20, 2021 Share Posted September 20, 2021 This started as a loose mirror mount repair. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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