Furbird

If you put a new sprocket on an old chain that could be the source of your noise also.

It's been so long I don't even remember how I did it. But considering that would have been back several head injuries ago, I would assume it involved a big ass socket and a sledgehammer.

Steering stem bearings. Never heard of them going out in a clunk like that but the description is exactly what mine felt like. Go with tapered bearings so you never have to do it again.

You do a bulb upgrade on a bird and you'll realize why we all have stock headlight housings. I run HID and that virtually eliminates any visibility issues. The low beam cut off is so dramatic straight ahead that it's deceptive in that you think corner visibility is nill. But the edges still rise up significantly, so when you're leaned over you get quite a bit of light at the roadside and on on corners. Those of us with parts will do everything humanly possible to save these housings, they are that good. And with the high beam on, it's like the sun rose. But God have mercy on your soul if you're approaching a Bird with a high beam HID on at night because it's so bright you won't even have a shadow.

You leave out the fastest color by not accepting 99 models (black). Well over 50k on mine, never had the valve cover off. They don't "need" a valve adjustment, and I can only clearly recall one person actually doing it and finding it was off (believe it was .001 or .002, basically not even worth pulling the valve cover off) and that was over 100k. I've got a 99 with 2000 body work (because they are the same bike) but it doesn't fit within your parameters.

The going rumor is you need to shake it up first as it may separate out. I've heard that synthetics are prone to this, and the oil will come out in distinctly two different colors. I always shake the bottles no matter how old they are so can't confirm this personally.

I went through a couple of bad batches of bearings when I was drag racing constantly. Enter a corner, whine. Going straight, no noise. Zero wobble, just noise similar to your experience.

Do you need a two stage? Sure, it would make my life easier, but my single stage 60 gallon does everything I need it to do. Sandblast cabinet, lug nuts on the 2500hd, so far no problems (although some of these axle torque ratings are absolutely bonkers which means reversing is LOL levels of stupidity.) Don't forget, if you hard pipe your shop, all that pipe adds to your capacity.

I've got a Craftsman 20 or so gallon roll-around oilless that I bought used 25 years ago that still runs like a champ. But it's in the car garage now as I installed the big 60 gallon I bought from HF probably a decade ago out in the big shop. HF never made their own stuff, so it turns out the one I have is made by BelAire (6061V) which they still make today but I paid roughly half of today's prices. They are practically bulletproof so fingers crossed it will be the next homeowner that has to do anything to it. Mine also enjoys the climate and humidity control too. If you've got the room and need the air, go as big as you can and get something serviceable. I got lucky since HF was using a rebranded well built product that even though they don't carry anymore, parts are still being made for. And for God's sake, if you get a big stand up compressor, get isolation pads because it makes life so much better!

State law varies on your question. We are a "may" issue state, but with revenues being so low I'm shocked they haven't changed that to a "shall not" at this point and require reinspection. Georgia doesn't accept ours because of their revenue department, and they are so vague that they won't even tell you why they fail it, just "it doesn't pass." You pay every time it's inspected, pass or fail there. They won't accept ours because people on the east side of the state buy from Atlanta's GIGANTIC auctions, legitimately fix them here, we inspect them here, then inevitably a Georgia buyer buys it. Georgia sees that as bypassing their process and won't accept them, however we do accept theirs. Eventually it will get to the right politician and they'll change our laws to "shall not" and require reinspection for all states because Georgia wants to be stubborn. Salvage means not legal to operate here. The only way to make it legal is restore it to it's prior condition, plus airbag light must function and display no faults, windshield cannot be cracked, and obviously if we find anything on it stolen then that's reported to the local jurisdictional authority for prosecution. We require it to be road ready, but in Florida (allegedly) they don't check airbag lights or even want you to paint it before inspection. Louisiana (allegedly) doesn't even require all repairs to be completed. Mississippi used to not have a rebuilt brand IF the brand was from another state, so you'd get an unbranded Mississippi title after inspection (may God have mercy on your soul if that vehicle ended up back in the original state's jurisdiction as they would then require inspection or proof it was inspected in Mississippi.) Everybody has their own rules. VIN inspections are done by the license commissioner/probate office here, unless they can't find it then it comes to us at the state level. Problem with that is they're not trained to look for falsified/modified/altered VIN's. I had one that somebody had printed a VIN on a label maker and glued over the real VIN (obviously came back stolen.) I caught it at first glance but this thing had been titled in two different states with that fake shit on it for 13 years and neither one caught it.

I don't know the legal ramifications in your state, but in Alabama if you wish to retain they have to give you a number. I've had some people tell me astronomical amounts back when the restrictions were nill on things going overseas (like Camrys to Dubai for the idiots to do their "drifting" videos where they would pay above retail for a SALVAGE CAR!) It's not like that anymore although a pile of stuff does go to Mexico and South American countries from here. We're seeing more an more owner retentions now because the insurance companies are totaling for nothing now and people don't want to deal with the unknown of a used car. Next few months it will get worse especially on trucks since the market is so overpriced. Your Jeep probably went sky high, as almost all Jeeps do. One of my rebuilders had to buy one out of New York, hit in the rear, with frame damage, to get it cheap enough to make it worthwhile. New York inspector said it would have to have a frame to pass inspection there, so now I tell people, "If you think I'm too strict, try to get this inspected in New York."

I have one of those. Seriously. The frame is the basis of my fat kid go-cart. The body is still in my parent's garage. The wheelbase is so long an adult can drive that if you remove the body. I use an office chair on mine (again, not making this up.) It's a fucking death trap because those have the pads that rub against the tires for brakes, not a real braking system. Might as well Flintstone it. Obviously now I have to fur that body and call it a "Furderbird" 🤣 Google the VIN of your Jeep. If it pops up on en.bidfax.info it will tell you what it sold for.

Oh, I am. But everybody abides by the same rules, so no matter what the playing field is level. Once they figure that out, they respect it.

Copart allows you to see if something sold by using the lot number, and it keeps the photos up usually for about 3 years. Can't do that by VIN, ONLY the lot number. IAA however is far more difficult because they scrub the listing. Sometimes after a couple of weeks you can catch them on Russian or UAE mirror sites. I have heard that if you have an account you can pull up photos after auction closes but I don't know what level account you have to have. I use the searches available to me to find out as much info as I can during my investigations because (real shocker here) several rebuilders are not forthcoming in what they have repaired hoping you don't catch something they should have fixed or failed to provide receipts for. 6 years of doing this and they still act surprised when I reject something because they didn't provide documentation for some major component they replaced. "How did you know I had to put a trunk and quarters on it?" "Because here's the pictures from when you bought it at auction and it looks like it was hit by a freight train carrying the Empire State Building."

With IAA, you pretty much have to be watching the auction live. Maybe if somebody had the VIN it could be googled, there's one site I know of that discloses selling prices (much to the chagrin of my rebuilders because that is supposed to be protected information.)

So you're going to build one of those into a jukebox and ship it to me, right? You know you want to 🤣

It's already over 5k plus buyer fees. It will probably double or triple on auction day.

That VIN suggest it's an assembled vehicle. That rear suspension (or lack thereof) suggests it's hacked together.

USD, pesos, or yen?

Birds run hotter and hotter at idle. You have to remember that water pump has a large rev range it has to remain functional in so the sacrifice was made at idle. I have a throttle lock on my bike and sit it at about 1500 to assist in cooling if I'm trying to cool it down. At a red light (and I live in the deep south where it hits 95 degrees with 95 percent humidity fairly regularly) I will put a little throttle in it to raise it up to that 1500-1800 range if I know the light will have me sitting there for a while. Exhaust wrap is asking for trouble on a street bike as no matter how well you wrap them they will trap moisture and accelerate corrosion/rust.

If the basement has a window (being in the south Lord knows I hope it does) then throw a window unit in there. It's not about the temperature, it's about recirculating the air. Dumping an AC vent with no return is not fixing the problem as the damp air is now just damp COOL air. Point is to remove the damp. I have a dehumidifier in the garage but only because I got one for free. It does a wonderful job of keeping the humidity down so I don't have to run the through-the-wall unit. But if it takes a dump I'll just set the AC on 80 and let it cycle.

I went with the $20 Wyze cameras. They have SD card memory (not required) and save things on the cloud. Events in your motion detection range will save for 2 weeks I think, plenty long enough for you to know if something happened. I go through them daily and have them set up very sensitive so it picks up birds, rain drops, even wasps that fly by. I put one in the laundry room window that covers the front yard and driveway entrance and one in the back yard on the gate side that covers the shop and vehicles. No monthly fee, I just use the free service with the app. They pick up audio or motion but I have the audio off since they are in the house. Supposedly you can buy housings to mount them outside but I just don't know that I trust that with the amount of rainfall and humidity we have down here. I caught Tinkerbell/ghost/flying spaghetti monster/creature from the black lagoon/insert whatever you think it is here. This was early AM so the reality is the sun rising through the double panes of glass caused it and also kinda washes out the image some. Hope it loads... 20200528_10_32_58.mp4

You should take it to the dragstrip. I'd come in from a pass and have two vortex-style fans wide open pointed at the radiator. That sucker was thermonuclear without the forced air assistance. Birds run hot.

That's one hell of a naked lady collection...

A 240gb SSD is "small" to you? Good grief, my laptop and all my music/videos wouldn't even fill that up.