Furbird

It's probably the consistently high reading temp on the gauge. Down here in the deep south it has gotten into the red on multiple occasions when coming back in from a pass at the dragstrip. You just can't dissipate all the heat you're generating in 1/8th of a mile at nearly WOT under full acceleration stress. I always had two high velocity fans in the pits and let the bike sit slightly off idle until temps cooled off. It never hurt anything but it is damn sure unnerving to say the least. You sit in traffic down here and it regularly dances on the high end of the gauge like it's going to touch red but never does. Considering pavement temps reach 140 or so down here and you're surrounded by cars pumping out heat it shouldn't surprise me but I still to this day think that can't be good to run that hot.

This one? https://www.harborfreight.com/9-pc-38-in-drive-metric-bolt-extractor-socket-set-67894.html?_br_psugg_q=extractor

I've done the slapper-recommended "weld on another nut" thing and it works. We had to pull the exhaust off of my friends 200k mile Armada and the exhaust tube nuts were rusted badly. Welded the shit out of a replacement nut and out they came. I've also heard that instead of using water to use WD40 and it basically hardens the bolt as it cools plus draws in lubricant for a win-win. That must be some hella loctite or they are extremely corroded because that type of work has never been done. Don't forget, nothing says loctite like cross-thread might also be an issue if somebody has been working on it before you.

I haven't installed a vacuum cruise control since 1997 because even back then the world was going with full electric cruises. I don't even know if you can pull enough vacuum on a bird to do a vacuum cruise?!?

I didn't say it was right, I said that's the only way I've seen it done. The irony that Danny Lipford is from here is not lost on me either. IMO it's the tradeoff of cutting a hole in your roof to vent a bathroom in one of the rainiest cities in the US that is also in a hurricane-prone area with multiple months of 90+ percent humidity, versus venting it into the attic that should have enough cross-flow ventilation or forced ventilation to dissipate or remove said bath fan exhaust humidity before it becomes a problem.

I've never seen a bathroom fan that vents to anything but the attic. Range hoods vent externally (or through a filter/trap system and recirculate inside) but not bathroom fans.

OK, now we're getting somewhere. I'm in Mobile, where it's 90% humidity a lot of the time, and I do not have this issue. It sounds to me like you have a lot of air leaks in the house that is drafting in humid outside air and the system is not able to keep the humidity levels down. I would check all of the windows and doors to see if you have air coming through there first, which is easily fixed with new seals on the door jambs or caulking the windows. I would also check the AC ducting in the attic to make sure you don't have a gap that is blowing cold air into the attic and also allowing hot, humid air into the ducts when the system is off. When that cold air starts blowing again, that's going to condensate in the duct and blow it towards the vent. You also need to check your return on the central AC. On my house, the return was not sealed to the living space, and was drawing hot attic air from between the studs and through the AC system (not only is that unfiltered air, it's also 100+ degrees and the system has to work extremely hard to cool it.) That is also drawing in outside humid air instead of recycling the lower humidity air in the house already. Another thing to check is the seal between the central unit and the return itself. In my house, it's a closet with the return at the bottom. The AC guy showed me by closing the door and the AC system sucked the door in and slammed it shut. Your door should not move at all. If it is sucking it closed, that's also bypassing the filter and can draw air from any gaps between the top of the unit and the attic when the door is shut.

When in the bathroom, fan comes on. Shower or shit, fan should be on. I'm sure Dave could find out, but this is probably why hotels have all of that on a single switch. My mom and dad have a heated fan in the back bathroom, came with the house. Problem is you can't run that fan without the heat, it was wired all together. So nobody ever crapped in that bathroom unless it was an emergency. Clearly whoever did that had no clue what they were doing because it popped the breaker within a few minutes. But if you were freezing, you could go stand in that bathroom and flip the heat on and it would be a sauna before the breaker popped.

If you weren't in the people's republic, I'm sure Joe or I would have already marked this as sold.

And of course the cement engine...

Duralube is what I believe you were referring to.

Holy... that's confusing. OK, so if I'm reading this right, you have condensation on your vents coming from your central AC vents showing up in your bathrooms. You believe that the combination bathroom vent fan/heater units are the source of your issue. Most vent fans have a flapper door on them that prevents attic air from backflowing into the bathroom. If those valves have failed or have been stuck open by insulation, that can cause your issue. However, I would be more apt to believe that your vent fans are not being used when someone showers to ventilate that humid air out so it just stays in the bathroom and dissipates throughout the adjoining rooms eventually. But since the humidity is highest in the bathroom, that's where it condensates. So your issue is probably not with the vent fan, but with the user. I'm saying all of that because I shower in the front bathroom and the vent fan does not work there. That also happens to be right next to the central AC unit. So I have seen this firsthand. But I have an ulterior motive. Vent fan doesn't work, and that's the guest bathroom. You can crap in your own toilet, not mine.

If the wire is corroded, you need to do two things. First of all, figure out why it's corroding. Secondly, you have to cut past all that corrosion and get to clean wire before you put a new connector on. On Furbird, I had to replace entire runs of wire because it was so corroded from the test connector. I have no idea how it even ran as bad as some of those wires were. If you have corrosion so bad it's causing heat that far back in the wire, I'd want to know why, otherwise you'll keep fighting a problem that will never go away.

140lb rider? You mean on the back or the operator, because I'm pretty sure the average weight around here is double that!

KBB shows nearly identical numbers for trade in and private party. I don't think I've ever seen that happen. Unicorn cars can pull that off I guess.

Good grief, I can't believe somebody hasn't jumped on this yet. Too far for me and already 3 birds deep.

1/8th mile/slick/wheelie bars/auto shifter.

I was running 10.5 on a bone stock bird when I weighed 242 lbs. Furbird was never set up for 1/4 so it would probably have blown up before it got to the big end (12/49 gearing.) I have an old PC2 but never hooked it up, even with the K&N and a full D&D system. Bike always ran fine for me.

Use the straight filter in the useful threads page (I had Oreilly's match it up) and curve your own hose. Or cut off your curved metal part and attach two straight hoses to either end. No sense in spending all that money on a fuel filter.

We don't do annual inspections here in Alabama, but since I do rebuilt inspections, I can speak on that decal. Those decals must be affixed to a permanent structure of the vehicle in close proximity to the Federal Inspection Sticker. The reason why is so that it cannot be moved to another vehicle. Your state may have similar wording in regards to annual labels which is why they attach it the way they do.

You talking about this one? Salvage title... https://wausau.craigslist.org/cto/d/wausau-2004-denali-truck/6787629324.html

Damn, I must be psychic as I said 4WS axles cost that much earlier. You could buy an entire quadrasteer totaled truck for that amount and have all the spare parts you could ever need. I suggest you check car-part. I see some with 3.73 for less than $1000. www.car-part.com

3500 bucks will buy you an 4WS rearend out of a GM. WTF is this thing made out of, unobtanium? Hand forged by Chuck Norris?

I have the tools and have done my own, but you couldn't pay me enough to do one for somebody else. There's only two people anywhere near my area that do it, one is a shop in Mobile (that also does those driveshaft disconnects for flat towing behind an RV that I didn't know ANYBODY did anymore) and the king of diff work over in Pensacola. Last time I checked he stayed wide open because like Carlos said it's voodoo magic going on in there. No matter what, invest in a solid pinion spacer, and do NOT put a crush sleeve in there. With a solid pinion spacer, when (not if) the pinion seal goes bad and starts leaking diff fluid, you can take it off with an impact and install a new one. Try that with a crush sleeve and you'll change the preload on the bearing which will cause premature differential failure.

I guess it depends on how the system is designed. I have been told that on a GM engine, if you plug the oil cooler lines (which are NOTORIOUS for leaking,) bye-bye engine. You can loop the two lines together, or remove the entire adapter and put the non-oil cooler plate on it (which is what I did) but plugging the lines equals destruction. Who knows.