EVLXX

Easy... Like this... Ctrl/prt scr, open paint, paste, save, crop, re-save, upload to board.Done. Piece of Cake.

Interesting stuff... I Googled it... and read. So it's basically a Lubricate with mild adhesive properties that acts as a extender for Elastometric seals. http://www.atlanta.ro/fise-tehnice/Syntheso_GLEP_1.pdf

Good Work.

Replace when Fail... was my Vote, But I replaced mine with a nice set of metal 90 degree angle stems... Just because. Once a week (summertime commuting)... to once a month (winter)

Mr. EVLXX, That is a really neat website. In fact, it makes me want to do a replacement as-soon-as-possible. (I have some eclectrical gremins starting). Have you done this operation? Do you have any pictures or personal commentary to add? I did my own stator last summer,and I'm feeling lucky! Yes... In this thread are some of my install pictures... http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=77642&hl=regulator Note I first tried to go the cheap route and bought a used R1 R/R... however, when I got the new R/R from Roadstercycle, it bolted right up.

Ouch. Here... http://www.roadstercycle.com/

I use a set of Modified Canyon Dancers

Avons... for the winter ???? No. Unless your looking for a death sentence. I have run back and forth to work more than a few times when the temp is in the Low 20's F. and I will say, nothing beats the Michelin PR3's. .... I'm not sure about this UK weather, without more details... I'm not sure what you're asking for. ... As for the paint ? The Blackbirds paint was known to be very thin from the get go. Infact, the lower fairings on my bike are just hammered with rock chips and pits.... partially due to said winter riding and sand covered roads.

Sounds like it's Flooding out... or Bad voltage to the coils...

lol.

I had the same problem with my HIDs flashing a while back... was the charging system. You said you got "good" numbers from the Stator but Not good from the Reg/Rec. What were the Numbers? I replaced both the stator and my reg/rec.... and Still had bad charging numbers. It turned out to be a wiring connection issue in between the stator and Reg/rec. I ended up taking the wires directly from the new stator and plugging them into the new reg/rec. without the stupid pigtail.

Here is one of mine from 2007...

I have a Data Logger mounted on my bike that records some of the sensors on the bike as well as a Bosh wide band air fuel sensor. But you, don't need all of that.... because you don't have Fuel Injection. However, you could "potentially" benefit from having a wide Band AFR sensor and gauge... so that you could better fine tune your Carburetors. As for suggesting a Kit, there really is to many to chose from, but you need something like this... http://www.ebay.com/itm/Auto-Meter-5770-Phantom-Wide-Band-Air-Fuel-Ratio-Kit-/290794857365?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43b4b96395&vxp=mtr After you decide on which Color you want, etc. and get it installed.... then the fun begins.... the maddening fun of wondering how you should adjust what in order to get your AFR numbers where you want them..... trust me, it can be very very maddening. Good Luck...... if you so choose to go down that path.....

The problem is... the EGA is incredibly outdated and does nothing for real world, on the road under load, numbers. Buy a Wide band Oxygen sensor.... then you will be posting something relative to today's technology. There's a few guys here that have O2 sensors or their bikes already... and I'm one of them.

Did you perform the Stator Test ? As stated about 12.1V is too low... and 14.6V is almost too high... Those were numbers I had before I found out my Stator and Reg/Rec, both had problems. If the voltage is too low at idle, then it will screw with the voltage coming off the sensors, which in turn throws hairballs into the mix to the ECM, which could cause the Fi light to start trying to hack up said hairball. Just thinking outloud... I'm watching this thread... to see what you end up find out is the problem.

Oh and as for mounting the rear wheel/tire on the bike again... personally I have never had a bike that is easier... On my bike it's pretty much, roll the wheel under the bike, line up the caliper, pop in the spacers, roll it in a little more, put the chain on, line it up, and slide the axle through. That's it.... easy. The only time it gets a little difficult is when I'm not on a nice flat surface, like in a parking lot. ps. hint. hint. I have my rear shimmed and the front forks adjusted, so basically my rear tire is 1/16" off the ground. LOL no shit shovel required.

I've been running the 3's for a few years... love them. Now I have a 1/2 worn 3 up front and a 4 out back. So Far, it's great. If you happen to ride in the rain, the 3's or the 4's are worth the extra coin.

Shhhhhhh.... keep it down, you'll screw up my Evil image with talk like that. ... I do (sort of, sometimes life dictates), and yes that's true, but hopefully not for a very long time from now.

NICE.... I sometimes wish I had the... casual time for fun little projects like that.

Really fits well on the Bike.......? No. I made my own little bracket to hold my gauge right next to the ignition key on the top clamp, because I didn't want to cut any holes in any of the body panels.

Silver

OK. still trying to wrap my head around why yo went from HID's to LED's. Standard Bulbs uses 55W and puts out 1200-1800 Lumens. OK. (Start up 15amp, running 4.5amp) Then there's HID... 35W DDM units use a claimed 60W on Start-up and 40W running and puts out 3000 Lumens (However they also claim on their website that the standard 35W unit use, Start up 6 amp, running 4 amps which is a little higher than the above wattage claim) and 55W DDM which put out a claimed 5000 Lumen, aren't given power usage numbers on the DDM website, however I was able to find where a guy actually tested the units power draw himself using a scope and he measured start up at 13.6 amps and running at 4.6 amps for the 55W units. Now there's the LED's 1800 Lumen, Start up 2.2 amps, running 2 amps. Now the only thing I found that's significantly different from the 55W standard Bulbs power draw, in comparison to the 55W HID unit's power draw, is that the Start up amperage and duration.... see here... http://theeshadow.com/files/volvo/hidcomp.html SO..... Chew on that and let me know how it tastes. My thoughts... Standard... same old same old. LED... Sweet. but not spectacular flavor, almost the same old same old. HID... Sweet and Sour, with spectacular Flavor. edited to add the Link to the HID osilloscope test.

OK... I think I've concluded my research in this area, after finding this thread on an Aprilia Forum. http://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/showthread.php?240785-Facts-about-shunt-based-regulators Yes I read the whole thing... not scanning it.. read it... I now think... I like the way my Bike is set up, I like my MOSFET shunt regulator.... and I have work to do around the house.... so have a good day.

Hmmmm.... http://xlforum.net/vbportal/forums/showthread.php?t=1648679 and... http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/66106-just-installed-a-compufire-series-regulator/ No time to dig more.... but I like what I'm finding.

OH No you don't..... You asked what are the Pro's and Con's, which lead to this nice big discussion about a possible contrasting side effect of using LED bulbs, and in the process.... a Lot of people LEARNED something about their motorcycles. So... Good Job. This has been a great thread. Thanks.