fizzy

The CCT death rattle is very pronounced at 3-4000rpm. If it rattles at idle and not at 3-4000prm then it most likely is simply the clutch basket. Incidentally, the CCT can be taken apart, 1 or 2 turns added to the spring and reassembled, to give it a second life.

The stator consumes mechanical power and produces electrical power. The ability of the series type regulator to unload the stator during periods of low electrical demand from the bike would be similar to maintaining speed down a steep hill by being able to close the throttle. Using this analogy, regarding the old shunt style regulator, going down the same hill while leaving the throttle open requires application of the brakes to maintain speed.

FH020AA, buy it here http://www.roadstercycle.com/index.htm This is what I used in "superkit" form, comes with all the wires ready to go. Requires a small amount of fab work as unit is slightly bigger than stock. No complaints at all. "I don't have a brand suggestion, but if I needed a new one I'd probably go with a series regulator instead". Per superhawk996 suggestion, that would be the SH847 regulator. Even better, slightly bigger again, requiring slightly more fab work to fit.

The longevity of the stator is directly related to the type of R/R it is connected to. "Old style" shunt types clamp down on excess voltage on 1 leg only to achieve max 14.5V. Mosfet type R/R's such as FH020AA clamp down on all 3 legs equally, spreading the load and the heat. This is akin to a 3 wheeled car having brakes on 1 wheel vs all 3 wheels. The series R/R mentioned by joblock above i.e. SH847 is more sophisticated again and puts even less stress on the stator giving it the longest possible life no matter OEM or Rick's.

If you plan to keep the bike can you really afford not to? Also, second the voltmeter mounted on the dash.

Fan motor may be dying once it gets hot and/or old wiring giving the fan low voltage. Also, possible radiator damage, fins etc. As Furbird says above, these bikes run hot, engine hot, transmission hot, frame hot, everything hot. "A short run thru town" is not enough to cool it off. Finally, what is battery voltage at idle when the fan kicks in? Free tip, raise your idle speed a little, this will raise the voltage some and speed up the water pump. FYI: some on here have added a second fan.

The blackbird linked brake system has more moving parts than you may realize. There is a proportioning valve, I think under the rear cowl. I say think because I never actually had to mess with mine. Anyway, likely blocked. I hear this valve is easily damaged, so be careful. Alternatively, you can delink the whole system with a delink kit, "jaws uk" has one. Personally, I would keep the linked brakes, once sorted, they work very well.

Agreed, I think LED bulbs are sized as equivalent to incandescent in brightness, based on the ones I have used. They will use far less power. Back to the question, looks like Hondero installed 5W incandescent bulbs in the dash, up from the 1.7W they replaced. They will burn hotter and may melt something. Recommend to go with the 5W equivalent LED. That's what I did 3+ years ago, no issues. Found them at Wallmart of all places.

On the previous thread you say you scuffed the decal with 600. Is this necessary? Doesn't this peel the edges up? Very nice work by the way. Looking forward to seeing the finished product.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/TruFuel-TruFuel-4-Cycle-Ethanol-Free-Fuel-6527238/203571144 This is available at the big box stores and probably anywhere that sells lawn equipment. Claimed long shelf life, should be good for winter storage.

Maybe we can assist to get pics posted. What exactly is the trouble?

Check the undercarriage, you will discover he is a "she", as are all machines of transport. No matter their name. Good luck with sale.

The SH847 from roadstercycles is probably the ultimate R/R you can install on the bird. However, it is bigger than stock, and may require a bit of fab work to fit. I had an FH020AA also from jack, it is slightly smaller than the 847, and easier to mount. Either way, get jacks "superkit", which has wiring direct to battery.

It is nice to think that these machines will still be on the road in 20 years. By then we will all be riding jet packs anyway.

Perhaps your accident displaced some of the fairing mounts which would give trouble on the install? Also, make sure panels are warmed up before fitment, they will flex easier. By the way, they look pretty good in the pics

Gentle readers, I didn't mean to start an argument.

What happens when you apply the brakes?

High pressure fuel line on a 2000XX. Weeping at the crimp on fitting. May have been exacerbated by me tilting the tank too high during several services and stressing it out.

No fault codes? Idling, in neutral, with the FI light on, deploy the side stand. What happens to the light? Should flash the codes at that point. If it remains on then there is most likely a problem with the loom itself..or a connector. I have heard of wires breaking near the ECM. End of the road here is a new ECM. This happened to me (2000 with code 25) and I eventually had to obtain new ECM to fix it. Merry new year all

Ok, looking straight down on these parts its hard to tell the contours, but that makes sense, thanks.

Tomek, Interesting thread and I have a question. Let me state first that I don't know squat about squish and that the deepest I have been into an engine is the valve clearance check. I am looking at the pics you posted with the marker showing squish area (thanks for that) and comparing them to the line drawing posted by blackhawkxx. For the sake of simplicity and symmetry let's assume a 4 valve head (which you say is the same). They look the same to me, what am I missing?

Second the low fluid symptoms, I have similar unit, 2001 ram 1500, developed a transmission leak at 140K miles, front seal bad, repair was $600. all good now. Also, owners manual states to check fluid with transmission in neutral, engine running, not park.

I have a 2000, which has fuel injection and analog gauges with low fuel light, comes on with 1 gal left. Don't know about the 03's. My understanding is that the fuel pressure on injected engines is too much for exposed petcocks or inline filters. In any case, good to see you have kicked the gremlins to the curb. Lets hope they stay there.

Lets back up a bit. Fuel system with fuel injection is closed and pressurized. The engine only runs when fuel pump is on. There is no on/off petcock with reserve, only a fuel gauge with reserve light. The rope over the rafters (tied to the front of the tank) is merely to stabilize it, not to drain it. It doesn't have to be fully drained, only lightened for convenience.

No need to detach fuel lines. Tank can be "stood up" with the tail end in the pocket behind the air filter, and the front standing straight up with all fuel lines still attached. Run gas down to less than 1 gallon, place fluffy towels behind air filter and stand tank up on them. I ran a rope from front of tank over the rafters for safety. If memory serves I disconnected some electrical wires, that's it.