superhawk996

Yup. Before I shimmed my injectors it was a bitch to start even at 60 degrees. An hour of heater time and I could feel that the heads were warming, mostly the left which is closest to the heater on a 7.3. If I was going out early in cold weather I'd set an outlet timer to turn it on about 2 hours before take off and it would fire like brand new, 3 hours to have some cab heat right away.

I thought they were too bright in the first photo, but was waiting for your first person impression. How bout just putting a little tint on them?

Everything is worth what someone's willing to pay. Sport bikes are far from a necessity so I can't fathom calling someone a crook or gouger for putting a high price on it. Simply move on to the nexxt one.

Sweet. I kinda figured that the pros were being overly cautious. Makes sense tho, if something went wrong they'd have to buy you a new board.

Something Another thing to keep an eye on with the 6.4. Front center of the engine right behind the fan is a metal coolant pipe that connects to the EGR cooler, right below that is a plastic pipe that connects to the heater core. That plastic pipe will start leaking at some point. It could just rupture, but mild leaking seems to the common warning. Replacing it is a pretty big job, but there's a 'repair kit' from one of the aftermarket diesel parts places that makes it less sucky. The kit isn't perfect, if you ever have to do it reach out. I had to re-do it a few times modding shit along the way, the learning is done now.

My 2020 Honda doesn't have any connectivity stuff at all, must be a Jeep thing.

Shit, that's the solution!! If I install Bird parts on my Harley it should stop leaking. Which schematic shows the cylinder base gaskets?

Guaranteed way to make a Bird leak oil, install a Harley part.

Swampnut offers a free sticky and people are fighting over it....no wonder the .com still exists.

Is it required, or desirable, to change the chain size for going up/down one tooth at either end? Personally I think I'd like an 18. I haven't tried it, but I like to keep the revs down and an 18, maybe even 18/44 like you have, would reduce upshifting around town. Somewhere I found a chart that showed ideal and bad combinations back when I was looking to re-gear one of my 999s. There's stuff that happens with combining tooth counts, something about how often the same tooth hits the same link or something like that. It supposedly effects wear and noise. On one of them I went from the stock 530 to a 525, the weight difference was pretty big.

Stop carrying a fucking gun around like some crazy vigilante and you won't have these problems!

I believe the difference is that the other countries got a one tooth smaller rear, 44 instead of 45 I think. I don't know why, but it supposedly makes the speedo closer to accurate and maybe that's the reason. Common here is to use the stock US rear with a 16 front for more acceleration, 17 to stay stock, or 18 for better highway MPG and lower RPM. The stock one has a vibration damper in it and many say it makes a noticeable difference. Someone recently posted a link to a company that offers all three with the damper. I don't think anyone can tell you what size sprockets are best since the advantages/disadvantages come down to your use and your liking. If you do mostly street and want more git up & go a smaller front might suit you. If you want lower RPM cruising a bigger one might suit you. Before putting too much thought into it you should confirm what is currently on the bike, it could already be re-geared without you knowing it. If you have no desire to have a different experience, get a new set of the existing. The only thing I'll suggest is to stick to a damped front sprockets instead of the 'normal' type.

I've soldered surface mount stuff with an old school Weller gun and very little soldering skill, maybe I got lucky.

My assumption is movement/vibration wearing away material where the screws press, but I don't know. I'm pretty sure I've seen it in the maintenance intervals of bikes so apparently it does, or at least can, change over time. Pretty sure EFI bikes are adjustable also. I don't think I've ever checked one as a maintenance item, only when doing repairs.

The first bird I bought was ridiculously out of synch, it wouldn't run without using the choke or holding the throttle open quite a bit. It acted like I'd expect for clogged jets and assumed that was it. When I looked into the carbs I could see that the throttle plates were all over the place. I didn't have a manometer so I used a piece of wire as a feeler gauge to set them, it purred like a kitten. I can't imagine it got that far out of whack on its own, nor can I imagine someone being so ignorant as to have adjusted them that way, but I've met people who've done dumber things to a vehicle. Synch is part of normal maintenance, tuning isn't. The tuning 'shouldn't' change unless the carbs are dirty, but it is possible. I think the USA bikes, or at least the California bikes, have plugs over the tuning screws so they can't be messed with. No clue if your laws require that.

Not if I just ignored it, I'd have to think about stuff and take it off on occasion.

My primary reason for wanting one, and maybe get used to using it for the other stuff that I'd normally have to pull my phone out for.

Put me #2 in line please.

I don't think so.

I had a brief opportunity to score a very similar gem, probably in better condition, for only $6k. By the time I figured out where to get the $, a few hours, it was gone.

I don't recall reading that you synched the carbs, make sure you do that before playing with the fuel screws. And maybe doing it again afterwords if you find the fuel adjustments out of whack. Actually, I'd leave the manometer on while doing the fuel adjustments, then you'd see if any change. I'm guessing they wouldn't change unless the mixture was pretty far off.

Also-fuel pumps, and motors in general, can do goofy shit where they'll work/not work for no obvious reasons. Not common, but I've run into it a few times. I recently had an Explorer with an intermittently dead pump that I was almost certain couldn't be the pump, but everything else checked out so the customer decided to take the gamble and have me replace it. Been trouble free for many months.

In the beginning wiggling the wires or connector at the pump made it work so it seems like the problem is in that area. Wires in the run are very unlikely to have a problem without external signs of damage. The most likely issue would be at the connector. Next on the list would be the connection between the terminals and the pump itself. I don't know how they're attached on the Bird, but a rivet type connection is pretty common and they can get loose & corroded/burnt.

If the bike still cranked with the bad battery but the fuel pump wouldn't run, the battery wasn't the cause of the fuel pump issue. A new battery might make the fuel pump run because the extra power could overcome whatever the actual problem is, but it's not the solution.