superhawk996

While the rod is out roll it on a flat surface to make sure it's perfectly straight.

You've done quite a bit to make it nice, good job. A good solution for the spare is underneath the bed somewhere. It not only frees up tongue space for a tool or utility box but also keeps the tire shaded extending its life. Many couplers are adjustable and I've seen them so loose that they'd clear the ball when locked. You don't want it clamping the ball hard, but minimal free play. Check the springs, mounts, and U bolts; visually inspect everything and put a wrench to each fastener to make sure they're tight. Check the lug nuts and recheck them after 25, 50, 100 miles re-torqueing as needed; something about the way trailer wheels are made they tend to compress or something. They'll stop loosening within a few tightenings. Also verify that they haven't been cranked down by a mad man with a mega impact gun so hard that you can't remove them with your road-side tool, that sucks balls. My friend forgot to re-torque his on a sea-doo trailer and I got to see the joke of having your tire pass you on the freeway. It went across the lane to our left then following the camber of the road it crossed in front of us as we slowed stopping on the right shoulder leaned against the k-rail with no incident other than a ground up trailer hub. That wheel had been installed by a shop about 50 miles before it came off. Had it continued going left there would have been 7 or 8 lanes of fairly heavy traffic for it to play with. We were in a spot where 3 freeways join & split in an area where half the drivers are Asian, that coulda been a serious mess. Spin each tire and make sure the bearings are smooth & quiet with minimal free play. If there's any amount of grumbling noise replace them. Complete bearing kits are cheap, grease is cheap; being flat-bedded home because a hub and axle got destroyed isn't cheap, especially if the cargo or a following car gets trashed in the process.

There's no need to bolt it down at all four corners and with a bike on it no bolts/nuts are needed just something for them to hook onto. I would use just the studs at the front and add wing nuts only for empty transport to keep them from being able to bounce off. It's not a lot of work to swap them so I get it, just suggesting it could be even easier.

It's only been like 14 years; what's the rush? And yes.

I'm surprised you can still buy new black ones? Hit it with zinc chromate primer first and it could last 20 years under water. There may be better things out there, but it's the only primer I've used for aluminum as the only aluminum I've painted is for boat outdrives & outboards and that primer is what everyone uses for marine stuff. I'm 99% sure that the stator couldn't heat it enough to have bubbled the paint even if it fried, there are much hotter parts of the engine and I assume they all get the same paint. It was most likely flawed from the start or road debris damaged the paint and allowed humidity to start working at it.

I probably shouldn't, but it looks sexy and I'm very curious to play with it so yup.

Are you saying that a bad stator will toast the paint on the stator cover?

I have the same .308 set but without the micrometer. Does the micrometer make seating any more precise or is it just to make it easier to make changes? I assume that if it uses the same seating plug it wouldn't make a difference to precision.

Holy crap, DIBS!

Unless you've owned it since new and have never let it out of your sight there's no way to know what may have happened. As for the paint, you could go to a paint supply place with it and have them color match and blend you up a spray can of an exact match, but likely that any gloss black spray paint would do since you can't see both sides at the same time to see that it doesn't match. I don't think the temperature there would demand a high temp paint.

And when you roll the volume control all the way up you can really feel and hear it almost accelerating.

If the bird is too buzzy, and it wasn't a broken one, I think you need an electric bike.

Absolutely DO NOT do the R1 RR. You should continue on your own path of finding something else that will work.

Pretty sure the only connection that can raise the voltage would be the regulator ground since it needs to send all the 'extra' power to it. Bad connections elsewhere should lower the voltage. It would be nice if the stator were regulated the way a car alternator is. How long did the voltage spikes last?

That would be way too simple

My guess is that someone crashed it right after buying it and it sat. This many years later it was resurrected to sell; the fuel pump pretty much tells that part of the tail. I'll bet that if he didn't give the details it would sell faster, but I'm sure there's someone out there that'll be delighted with a low mile bike that has a bunch of new parts. And yea, the rear looks tweaked.

At 120 indicated with the likely geared down sprockets, or a true 120? Regardless it's not indicative of a bike capable of 200MPH.

I'm a bit shocked that this is being entertained. Tom, your bike's speedo reads about 10-12% high unless it's been recalibrated (assuming it has stock sprockets) so the 175 you saw was 155ish. I've been to an indicated 192 on a slightly modded '99 Bird which would calculate to under 170, the truth sucks. If you're after a 200MPH ride from the Bird it's going to take a fuck ton of engine work or boost. Boreing it to the maximum that the cylinders allow might get you 10% of the way to your goal. If you have an unlimited budget you can get there without boost, but boost is probably the only realistic way. To reach 200MPH you'll need well over 200HP, the cheapest solution would be nitrous. Based on what I've read I'm glad that you'll likely be doing your speed runs a safe distance south of me. I don't want to discourage you from enjoying and modding your Bird or being a member here, but you do need to grasp reality and 200MPH is very unlikely for you. I also suggest paying some amount of attention to your grammar. You don't have to be a scholar to get along here, but we aren't that usual forum that will understand and entertain gibberish either. There's a wealth of knowledge and humanitarianism encased in the .org and if you fit in you'll benefit from it.

It comes on after running out of fuel, how does that work?

I'd never noticed that. On other bikes I would often get the switch to stay in between to have both beams, never felt I needed to on the bird and now I know why.

The headlight turns off while cranking unless you've changed the way it's powered.

This don't sound right at all. The part that the sprocket bolts to is also bolted to the wheel?

Full eBay price, I'll give $99.99 for them no arguments.

Interesting that the valves don't rotate at all until super high revs, doesn't seem right. The follower set up is pretty trippy.

It was once the fastest color, now it has faded into a receptacle.