superhawk996

I think not. If I did I know I didn't change the filter.

I assume there's no danger in running a wire that's bigger than the breaker's rating and that the 125% thing is to allow using all the juice that the wire can give. Voltage drop is your enemy. I learned the hard way that when I connect to outlets that are farther from the panel my welder's limit decreases dramatically. If your projected needs are anywhere near the edge of XX size wire, go up one.

Wow, great looking bike! I hope the seller isn't a crackhead. I've been thinking about a manual for the R5, but so far my curiosities have been solved by YouTube.

Simple geniusness.

I recently had the same problems Slapper did when I used Crome so I went back to Safari.

Possible reasons: Our fuel is more expensive, usually more traffic, wages are probably higher, and trucks are more expensive-we can't use medium/heavy duty diesels older than 2010 because of emissions laws. That last bit killed a lot of cheap competition.

Insurance companies offer towing and it might be cheaper than AAA, but also usually not as good. And lots of places give AAA discounts that can add up. I got $30 off a starter at Napa yesterday, that's almost half of a basic yearly membership fee gone in one purchase. More important to me is the DMV services at AAA. AAA employees are generally much more friendly and helpful than DMV employees and the wait time is minutes instead of hours. And unlike AAA, I've never found a cute young chick working at DMV that will bang me in her car after a date. I will say that AAA dispatch has been fucked up a few times, and some of their contractors are fucking 'tards, but it's usually good. If they fail you and you hire an independent service they'll reimburse you for it.

Like the people who circle the parking lot waiting for a close spot in the parking lot of the gym.

I've never had one that was buggered up, but never had one delivered. Makes me wonder if it's soft or was beaten to death.

Many have said the same. I use the fuck out of the title/registration services, and the towing on occasion when I buy a dead car. Tho I haven't needed it, it's comforting to know I can get any of my vehicles/trailers home for free. And it saved the day...actually many days, when my buddy's truck took a shit towing my boat to Havasu. It wasn't going to get us home, but it got us to an auto parts store so I could buy the freeze plug and scavenge some wood to raise the engine for access. Reminds me that I need to upgrade. I thought I had 200 mile towing, when the Excursion died a few weeks ago I found out that it's only 100. Luckily, Ashley has 200 so it would have gotten us most of the way home for free.

I came real close to that a few weeks ago, had already placed the call to AAA. I wouldn't have felt a loss of points because of the circumstances, but when I solved the problem and cancelled the tow I did feel a few points go into the reserve account.

I've caved to taking the wheels and tires to the shop. On the rare occasion that I take the whole vehicle there I feel like I'm at least bending a corner of the man card.

Isn't it great having "free" tire mounting? Kinda like all the "free" fish that comes with owning a boat.

He had the titanium model, the ultra light paint made it faster....even on the dyno.

I had a bike that would loose front brake while parked due to an over-filled reservoir. The first time it happened it it was fine on the second pump, Hmmm...that's odd. It got worse and worse. The only new bike I've ever owned, China bike, overfilled so much that I don't know how they pulled it off. Once drained it was fine.

Those screws remind me of some I got from Hazard Fraught in a 4 drawer cabinet, I just wanted the cabinet. The sheet metal screws were so soft they couldn't bite into very thin sheet metal even with an oversized hole, the threads would just round over. I threw them away after trying to drive one into plastic. The kit also had some 1/4-20 nuts and bolts. The bolts had 10mm heads, lovely, and they broke using about torque one could make using a nut driver. I tossed all the hardware, and later tossed all the crimp connectors also. They achieved something special with those, plastic too hard to crimp without breaking and metal too soft to hold a crimp. The little bit of other hardware I've bought from them has been ok. I wouldn't use them to secure an overhead crane, but they functioned.

This is always a concern, but I've bought many abandoned vehicles, some that sat over 20 years, and had no seal issues I can recall. My current boat is a 2007 that was apparently never used, and was stored outdoors in Bullhead AZ which is a pretty harsh environment. I haven't put a lot of run time on it, but it's been around 9 months and no leaks so far. As a bonus, the owner parked it with the hull drains installed so the engine was mostly underwater. The high water mark was almost at the valve cover, when I got to it the water was at about mid cylinder area.

Looks like a good idea...'till someone grabs it willy nilly and either gets burnt because of the split or one of the perpendicular rods. If this doesn't already exist, I think it would be a hit; a silicone covered handle that attaches to the rack.

If it stops having the low regen problem it's fairly safe to assume that the wear problem is also solved, but it would be a good idea to check the temp after a ride to be sure.

Is the regen level changed by a pressure switch or a mechanically linked switch? If it's pressure it could possibly be caused by an overfill. If it mechanical then the lever is being held by him or something. I'm assuming that the wear and regen are related, which seems likely.

Now I'm lost. In the beginning you said that the problem was figured out, but now it seems like you're saying that there's still doubt?

An adjustment, or manufacturer fuck up, or something, was keeping the pedal from fully retracting keeping a little pressure in the system and keeping the brake switch on telling the bike not to give full regen.

Load some heavy stuff into the bucket or onto the forks. Or step out of the cab and jump on the fork.

Dummy forgot to perform the brake pad rotation, and/or he makes too many left turns while on the brakes. If it's only got piston(s) on one side, caliper slide pin jammed up. If it's pistons on both sides, piston jammed up-less likely. It's also possible that there was a caliper/bracket installation screw-up, but I think that would have eaten the pad quicker.

Not to me, and it's better written than many I see.