superhawk996

Nope. If it's plugged in the car won't start, if the key is on then plug in it won't charge. I've thought about trying that. I assume that the on-board charger won't turn on, but maybe. I assume it couldn't be damaged by trying, but ? One range extender thought was a DC generator connected to the battery. I have one with variable voltage output that maxes out around 140v....more RPM perhaps? My next thought was something mechanical, more my style. Buy a cheap wrecked scooter, chop the front off, and connect it to the car with an articulating hitch so it'll work as a pusher. That lead to a cleaner thought, install a sprocket or pulley on an axle and have an engine drive it that way.

I would love this for the Smart. I'm sure it can be done, but don't know how. I've conjured up a couple possible redneck solutions but since Ashley always has it I haven't tinkered. We had a cluster fuck of a problem with it Saturday. Went to a party knowing we'd have to charge near the venue. Got to the closest charger on 1%, all the working ones were in use. Went to the next, same. We eventually found one in the back lot of some business center, nothing to do, sit there and wait. We got enough in to limp to another place that had stuff we could do, bad directions in the charging app got us to the right place on 1%, I think it was at 0 by the time we found an open charger. On the upside, it was free.

A typical loco powertrain doesn't make sense for a car since they're straight engine/generator/motor. I've heard that there are hybrid locos, that wouldn't make sense for long hauling, but maybe for commuter trains or yard locos that do a lot of stop & go.

The only bad I know is that they'll lie. Like saying that my TIG is a lift arc when it clearly isn't.

I've seen that, didn't realize it was the same guy. I guess he knows a thing or two about fabricating. He said what I've been saying for years, hybrid is the best of both worlds.

A "duh" moment, so simple, but I never thunk of it.

I think the Smart will only pre-condition if it's plugged in, but I haven't tested it. Makes sense since the climate control can pull a large percentage of the battery's capacity.

I don't know this guy, but he seems to do a decent test. He also talked about the consumables being compatible with his other machine after putting a Chinese gun on it.

Print something for a man and he has one new thing for his car. Teach a man to print and he'll have dozens of new things. Multiple printers, heads, feeders, filament holders, beds, .....and eventually that one new thing for his car. You should print him the bolt-on version, the one that takes a 1/2" lag bolt.

When you find that guy, have him do the installation.

I don't have a specific recommendation. I'd probably any cheapo with positive reviews, or buy used to get something better for the same price or the cheapo for even less. My oxy/acetylene rig has so much dust on it that I 'should' sell it, but I know I'd need it the next day.

Smart EVs do that more efficiently than gassers and do it off the charger if you're plugged in so that it doesn't hurt your range. My Smart EV is retarded and I have to jump through hoops to make it do climate control off the charger unless it's done on a pre-planned schedule. It's a pretty cool thing if you're a normal person who has a scheduled drive time, it'll fire up the climate control automatically so that it's ready to go for you.

I was briefly confused; add throttle without adding power? Oh, duh, add throttle but no fuel to reduce the engine vacuum that creates most of the engine braking. I'm smarter today than I was yesterday, Thanks.

I didn't know this. So they apply some power if the tire slips too much while not using the brake?

Does regen apply the trailer brakes or only if you use the brakes?

Which part?

80,000 amps?!? WTF?

You should do the test connector repair on the harness before getting it secured in place. My brain is misfiring this morning, otherwise I'd provide a link.

Carb models have ignition control only, clearly not going to work. This build is going to be an uphill battle.

If the wear bars line up to where you install your straps you're fucked no matter what the tread depth is. And if you need an indicator to find the wear bars....never mind.

😵

Same here. It's grabbing, but I don't know that I'd want to look at it every day. If you're referring to Jeep's Gecko Green, I think the bike is very different. And while I loved Gecko on my Jeep, it's questionable on a stocker. Too much "look at me" with not much to look at. Porsche's LIzard Green seems to be pretty similar to the Jeep green and I love it on a pimped out 911 GT3, but I don't know that it would look good on my mundane 911.

I wouldn't be surprised if he talks them out of wanting to do it.

I've never had this problem with bike or car/truck tires and have never heard of it before. Sure you're not making this up in your head?

5/16 and 8mm are interchangeable in case you have a socket or nut driver in 8mm but not 5/16..