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I was taught to never use an extension (busted), always keep the wrench beam 90* to the fastener (technically true), hold the wrench ONLY at the handle (true), and pull smoothly and evenly at 90* to the handle (untested). Follow assembly instructions, if the torque value given is with the fastener lubed in one specific area and you lube the whole thing, or don't lube it at all, or use the "wrong" lube, torque will be wrong (seems to likely be true from the video). Also, repeatedly "checking" torque can cause torque creep and fastener failure (untested). Always return the wrench to zero (true). Don't ever use a torque wrench to loosen a tight fastener (untested, but I don't see the issue as long as you don't go too far beyond the torque the wrench is set to).

I believe there was a discussion a while back about using torque wrench adapters and how to use them without screwing up the result. We also talked about lubing fasteners and how the clamping force changes, I was shocked at how much it changed. Another thing that surprised me was how much it changed by changing where on the tool you put your hand, I wouldn't have believed if if I didn't see it.

No idea why it's NSFW, but the board in that discussion is completely different.

I don't have a Reddit log-in: NSFW ?

Model number? https://www.google.com/search?q=lux+electric+trimmer+parts+diagram&client=ms-android-google&sca_esv=e11fd8c8d000e92d&sca_upv=1&sxsrf=ADLYWIKmusJB3BEClMeM-0JbfOtfu9HlgQ%3A1715433170338&ei=0m4_Zs2sFMe8p84PycmawAU&oq=lux+electric+trimmer+parts+diagram&gs_lp=EhNtb2JpbGUtZ3dzLXdpei1zZXJwIiJsdXggZWxlY3RyaWMgdHJpbW1lciBwYXJ0cyBkaWFncmFtMggQABiABBiiBDIIEAAYgAQYogQyCBAAGIAEGKIESL5TUL4YWLZAcAF4AZABAJgB9wOgAaUeqgEHMy0zLjUuMbgBA8gBAPgBAZgCCqAChR_CAgoQABiwAxjWBBhHwgIIECEYoAEYwwTCAgoQIRigARjDBBgKmAMAiAYBkAYIkgcHMS4zLTIuN6AHhxU&sclient=mobile-gws-wiz-serp

The suspect component appears to just be a jumper, if so it's probably carrying a lot of current and would need good connections.

Depends on whether the cause was a bad solder joint or if something else caused it to melt, I've had both.

Also-I've had several of those HF meters, beware that they can lie. Sometimes they're so far off it's somewhat obvious that something's wrong, usually it's just far off enough to fuck with you.

...and will occur almost immediately again after re-soldering?

The upper left side of the PCB shows evidence of a smoke event, right above the thing labeled 7550. Looks like the solder melted, but it's hard to tell. If the solder did melt away it might be as simple as re-soldering it. Sometimes I see stuff like that caused by a bad soldering job, sometimes it's because there was another problem that caused it to happen.

That'll never work, way too simple. A simple lashing that would take less than 10% as much time and effort.

Caught, guilty as charged, 57.

I wonder what it would cost for my 1897 built house? 😉

Block the tongue up and leave it there.

I acquired a relatively inexpensive Lux Tools brand weedeater. The battery that came with it was dead and I wasn't able to jumpstart it enough to be able to get it to charge. I purchased a new battery and the weedeater was working just fine for one use. Went to use it today and it isn't working. 1. Tested the battery and it is fully charged putting out 20V. 2. Connected battery directly to motor at motor and wiring at top coming from switch. The motor spins like it should. 3. Connected ohm meter to switch and it works as expected when I close the switch. So I think the PCB is bad but need a reality check. Battery side of PCB. Think it looks normal but not sure about the yellow around the red wire. Thinking it is some sort of insulation and not damage due to melting. Business side of PCB. If I measure voltage with negative lead on COM and positive on B+ I get 20V and those connect directly to the battery on the other side. If I measure voltage with positive lead on M+ and negative lead on M- I get 10V. I would expect it should be 20V but maybe my assumption is wrong. I forgot to check to look to see if there was a voltage listed on the motor while I had the cover off. Maybe it is a 10V motor? The switch, battery, motor and wiring to motor all seem to be good so I am think something is wrong on the PCB. Thoughts?

What's is that?

Would not be easier if it self drained rather than my going out to tip the trailer every time it rains? Tarp must always be lashed down so the wind doesn’t catch it and make it go bye bye.

Well, Brawndo does have what plants crave.

You would be surprised how many people try to pet them, even more, the elk in town. We get a few groups every year stopping in front of the house to ask if the elk in the yard are pets.

I was there for that. It appears that it's not like the shitty extended auto repair warrantees, but I had previously assumed they were. Hmmm, I wonder what it would cost for my 1965 built house.

I showed this to Ashley and Randy and got "why didn't he just raise the tongue so the water would run off the back?"

Jeezus, you really love doing stuff the hard way don't you. There's no need to support the tarp at all, just raise the front of the trailer and water will flow out the back. It also means minimal strapping since the tarp doesn't have to be kept tight like it does with your support system. Yes, too easy, I get it.

If I thought I needed more sodium I'd eat the stuff I like that's loaded with it, not some crappy drink.

The rain was falling Jeff. Desperation can make for quick solutions.

No,no Cal the ladder goes into the shop!