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Someone asked me about this when I posted a photo before. This is how to do it, and generally applies to most cars. The details will vary of course.

So, with these two carefully edited lines, all we have to do is remove all Harley Davidson's and their worshippers off the road. I fixed it. Nobel Peace Prize. Meanwhile, at Justice League Headquarters, I actually stop when on duty and take the time to clear this bullshit from the traffic lanes. Only took one time picking up a hot road gator to realize ALWAYS wear thick gloves when preventing disaster 🥵

Some of the nuances would vary by state. Perplexity AI: If you hit something in the road, the type of insurance coverage that applies depends on the nature of the incident and the type of coverage you have: Collision Coverage: This type of insurance covers damage to your vehicle if you run over or collide with an object lying on the road. For example, if you hit a stationary object like a tire or a piece of debris on the road, your collision coverage will pay for the repairs, subject to your deductible. Comprehensive Coverage: This coverage applies if the object hits your vehicle while in motion, such as debris flying off another vehicle and striking your car. Comprehensive insurance covers non-collision incidents, including damage from falling objects, theft, fire, and natural disasters. It also covers damage from flying road debris. Key Points: Deductibles: Both collision and comprehensive coverages require you to pay a deductible before the insurance company covers the remaining repair costs. Common deductibles range from $500 to $1,000. At-Fault Considerations: Hitting road debris is often considered an at-fault accident by insurers, which can affect your premiums. However, if the debris was unavoidable or flew off another vehicle, it might not be considered your fault. Liability Coverage: If you only have liability insurance, it will not cover damage to your own vehicle from road debris. Liability insurance only covers damage you cause to other people or their property. Steps to Take After Hitting Road Debris: Pull Over Safely: Move your vehicle to a safe location away from traffic. Document the Incident: File a police report, especially if there are injuries or significant damage. This report can be crucial for your insurance claim. Gather Evidence: If possible, get the license plate number of the vehicle from which the debris fell and take photos of the damage and the scene. File a Claim: Contact your insurance company to file a claim. Provide all necessary documentation, including the police report and any evidence collected. By understanding the distinctions between collision and comprehensive coverage, you can better navigate the claims process and ensure you have the appropriate protection for such incidents.

I think your insurance would have to fully cover it. I think partial coverage only happens when you have a collision and both people screwed up, then someone assigns a percentage of screwup to each side. My guess is that if it's an object laying in the road you'd be found to be at fault. If you struck something right after it was ejected from another car I assume it would be a "no-fault collision", and that if you got their plate # it would be on them to pay for the damage. I have a friend who works for State Farm, I'll see if she knows.

We're paying taxes so the state can afford good lawyers to go after people like your neighbor. I'm kidding, but that guy opened himself to civil and criminal action.

It was folded up sort of like this, only on the dashed white center line.

Your honor, "so much" time has passed so the defendant is clearly responsible for my car's damage. Good luck with that.

The downstream sensor is just monitoring catalyst function, I think. I've read that some cars will make slight tweaks to the mixture based on the downstream sensor to optimize cat function, but I don't know if it's true. The upstream sensor is responsible for all (or maybe most) of the mixture.

Doesn't the the computer use the O2 sensor in part to determine the fuel mixture? If so, wouldn't giving it a false reading change the way the car runs?

Got one sensor wire that oily for sure. Not sure where it's coming from (probably everywhere on a truck with 166K). I'll see if that is the "bank 1" side. Thanks.

I would, or install the electronic fooler if space is limited. I've also seen 90 degree adapters to deal with space issues. Something else to keep in mind is that if the wires are oily/grungy the sensor can read wrong and might show a dead cat even if it's good. This probably isn't the perfect textbook way to explain it- the sensor uses outside air to function and it does it by breathing through the wires. Way back they had a sample tube/breather hole in the sensor's body. I believe this is why the spacer works, even tho the sensor tip is still seeing pure exhaust, the spacer changes the percentage of outside air to exhaust. Restricting the exhaust while keeping the same amount of outside air is kinda like leaning out the mixture that's acting on the sensor making it think the exhaust is cleaner. If it can't breath it'll show the opposite, a richer/dirtier mixture.

My Gladiator had cargo rails and the typical sliding anchor points. Super useful. It was very heavy and could be used to tie down anything, load limits were realistically nearly as good as solid tie down loops. So I decided to get a similar system for the Rivian, and after looking at so many options, went with generic aircraft L-track. It seems lighter than the track in some trucks, but people seem to love it. Anyone have this? Experiences? Tips? The bed has a series of existing threaded holes intended for mounting tie-downs or MOLLE panels. I'll use those, and if needed, some spacers to attach the rails. They are said to be solid. My routine usage will be random small shit with light straps (Ron Straps, bungees) and occasional motorcycle loading with ratchet straps. I got these for more heavy duty use and flexibility. And these for casual hanging stuff, low load needs. Edit to add: I got four tracks. One for each side up high, and two across the front. This is how the factory mount holes are set up. I have seen some motorcycle chocks that can go into the front rails, not sure if I would want them or not.

They have qualified immunity.

Back in 1978 on I-70 at night I hit a trailer truck tire/wheel that had just came off a truck, taking out the spoiler, sway bar and oil pan. He had already pulled over. The truckers insurance paid for it.

I’m sure it’s state and case specific. My road has some bad potholes. Yeah, you should slow down and try to avoid them, but we’ve filed requests with VDOT to have them come out and AT THE VERY LEAST patch the bigger ones. Nothing has happened. If they had water in them, it would be easy to just think they are a puddle. If there’s an accident or a vehicle get damaged by hitting one, I’d hope there would be a case against VDOT for malfeasance. Once notified of a road hazard, doing nothing should be actionable once so much time passes. Hell, a bad pothole close to me was patched by the guy who lives next to it…filled it with concrete on his own initiative. What the fuck are we paying taxes for?

So I should try that?

Food point. Nearest Lowes is around 90 miles from my house. Mike, IcePrick, recently had good luck with a mail in return.

Doesn't Lowe's do Craftsman now? I have a few to swap and just haven't gotten around to it.

I've heard of people stacking two spacers to solve the problem.

...and you hit it, you're at fault. So the claim is only partially covered and your rates may increase? I dial non-emergency. About twice a month there's something laying in a lane on the 4-lane big enough to damage most vehicles. ...probably kill a biker. I think a portion of it is from scrap haulers heading south. North and southbound lanes both get the road gators. 'Key Findings Between 2011-2014, road debris was a factor in a total of more than 200,000 police-reported crashes Resulted in a total of approximately 39,000 injuries and 500 deaths Compared to crashes that did not involve debris, debris-related crashes were approximately 4 times as likely to occur on Interstate highways Nearly 37 percent of all deaths in road debris crashes resulted from the driver swerving to avoid hitting an object About two-thirds of debris-related crashes are the result of items falling from a vehicle due to improper maintenance and unsecured loads. The most common types of vehicle debris are: Parts becoming detached from a vehicle (tires, wheels, etc.) and falling onto the roadway Unsecured cargo like furniture, appliances and other items falling onto the roadway Tow trailers becoming separated and hitting another vehicle or landing on the roadway More than one in three crashes involving debris occur between 10:00 a.m. and 3:59 p.m., a time when many people are on the road hauling or moving heavy items like furniture or construction equipment" https://aaafoundation.org/prevalence-motor-vehicle-crashes-involving-road-debris-united-states-2011-2014/

Well, I'd definitely try O2 spacers. It is just couple bucks.

I used an old Craftsman....been doing this for years....was easier when I could take the cracked ones in for their lifetime replacement.

Not from OEM, but Denso's, which I believe is what Nissan sells. No emissions test here. Just want to prevent that false code.

ECUs are touchy about O2 replacement sensors. Aftermarket is hit or miss. Did you get OEMs? As the rest of your post, spacers are practically free, so it is just labor, although it could be a bitch on some cars. Nothing to lose, just try it. We do have emission test in Illinois. Once every two years. OBD only. No visual or sniffer. One of the cats in my Volvo is weak, I would get check engine light. Installed spacers( inline six, two downstream cats), it cured CAT codes, although now sometimes lean condition code pops up, but only if you do 80 mph or better for more than 15 minutes or so. City driving it will disappear. So you know what not to do before testing. 😆 As a matter of fact I passed emission test today. 211 k miles. Xc70 3.2 atmo. Original cats and sensors. Getting another new to me XC70 with 45 k miles. Turbo inline 5.

Surprised I haven't heard of this thing before. Modern vehicles usually have one O2 sensor before the CAT, and one after. The first is for correcting fuel mixture, and the second is just for making sure the CAT is working properly. Is that correct? If so, then this little device let's you use a cheap replacement CAT that may or may not be up to factory specs? Because that is pretty much what I did (replaced all 4 O2 sensors as well), and the computer don't like it (well, it did for a week, or so). No way I'm spending $3K for CAT's on a $7K truck.