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900hp sand rail crashed $24k

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That VIN suggest it's an assembled vehicle.  That rear suspension (or lack thereof) suggests it's hacked together.

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Gucci.

 

Couldn't open the link without logging in.

 

No intake, how much water inside the engine?

 

900 HP - if it ran?

 

...could be a fun time waster.

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1 hour ago, Furbird said:

That VIN suggest it's an assembled vehicle.  That rear suspension (or lack thereof) suggests it's hacked together.

Of course it's a custom build, duh.  There is nothing lacking or hacked looking to me.

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The intake was still on in the 360 view.  My guess is that the insurance company had it removed for inspection, found sand inside, then decided to total it.  A complete LS3 looks to run about $7k, I might have to take a little run out to Fontana and check this thing out.

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Oh, and to the question of $76K new; I don't doubt it.  A long travel V-8 rail hits $50k pretty easily, a fancy one with a turbo LS3, which I'm assuming from the exhaust, could easily go $70+.  My friend did a long travel V-6 rail and spent around $30-35k despite getting pretty good deals on the frame, engine, and trans.

 

Today those cars that were getting $50k a few years ago are 20ish.  My friend's 35k car sold for 12,500 and it took me a while to get that.  The side by sides have pretty much killed the sandrail market, now people are building high dollar SXS's instead.

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I went to check it out, "due to Covid19 we're not allowing inspections".  I asked about body panels or any of the other missing stuff, "they're not in any of the photos so they aren't there".  I asked about the intake being there in the 360 photo but missing in the others..."hmmm, strange, I'll ask my manager".  That lead to permission for a quick inspection.

 

I found the rear body panels, air filter, and exhaust system laying in the back seat, bonus.  The intake was just sitting on the motor and there's dirt in the intake ports.  Didn't see the steering wheel anywhere, but maybe it's hiding under the other stuff.  I didn't dig all the panels out, but the rear one showed some impact damage.  It's listed as "collision damage" but there's little body damage and the dirt in the motor, strange.  My only guess is that it took a somewhat minor hit that knocked the air filter ducting off wrecking the motor, but it still doesn't seem like enough to total it.  There's a boost/vac. gauge on the dash but it didn't appear to have had turbos or a blower, also odd.

 

If the bidding stays low maybe I'll be able to answer some of those questions once it's home.

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Where are we doing the maiden run?  The Sea?

 

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With the right tires we should be able to visit Bombay, it's pretty much straight across.

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Posted (edited)

It's already over 5k plus buyer fees.  It will probably double or triple on auction day.

Edited by Furbird

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4 minutes ago, superhawk996 said:

With the right tires we should be able to visit Bombay, it's pretty much straight across.

 

Deep water has never stopped me before.

 

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Pre-bids jumped from $5k to $11k today so my dream of getting it for under 10k is pretty much busted.

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On 7/17/2020 at 4:14 PM, SwampNut said:

 

Deep water has never stopped me before.

 

False

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With IAA, you pretty much have to be watching the auction live.  Maybe if somebody had the VIN it could be googled, there's one site I know of that discloses selling prices (much to the chagrin of my rebuilders because that is supposed to be protected information.)

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Posted (edited)
On 7/25/2020 at 2:01 AM, SoCalBird said:

so what did it sell for ?

 

As Fur said, and I wasn't watching.  And there's no way to know if it sold for now, that I know of.  Unless someone hit the 'buy now' price of 24k the insurance company could let it run through again.  I sold one of my cars yesterday, 928, so if the rail comes back I'll be armed with a little more $ to consider throwing at it.

Edited by superhawk996

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Copart allows you to see if something sold by using the lot number, and it keeps the photos up usually for about 3 years.  Can't do that by VIN, ONLY the lot number.  IAA however is far more difficult because they scrub the listing.  Sometimes after a couple of weeks you can catch them on Russian or UAE mirror sites.  I have heard that if you have an account you can pull up photos after auction closes but I don't know what level account you have to have.  I use the searches available to me to find out as much info as I can during my investigations because (real shocker here) several rebuilders are not forthcoming in what they have repaired hoping you don't catch something they should have fixed or failed to provide receipts for.  6 years of doing this and they still act surprised when I reject something because they didn't provide documentation for some major component they replaced. 

"How did you know I had to put a trunk and quarters on it?" 

"Because here's the pictures from when you bought it at auction and it looks like it was hit by a freight train carrying the Empire State Building."

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4 hours ago, Furbird said:

6 years of doing this and they still act surprised when I reject something because they didn't provide documentation for some major component they replaced. 

You sound like a pain in the butt.        😀  J/K.

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Oh, I am.  But everybody abides by the same rules, so no matter what the playing field is level.  Once they figure that out, they respect it.

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16 hours ago, blackhawkxx said:

You sound like a pain in the butt. 

 

I too shared a room with him at a meet.

 

I've always wanted to know what my totaled Jeep went for, but could never find it.  American Family basically says NO to buying it back from them and wouldn't give me a number.

 

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Posted (edited)

I have one of those.  Seriously.  The frame is the basis of my fat kid go-cart.  The body is still in my parent's garage.  The wheelbase is so long an adult can drive that if you remove the body.  I use an office chair on mine (again, not making this up.)  It's a fucking death trap because those have the pads that rub against the tires for brakes, not a real braking system.  Might as well Flintstone it.

Obviously now I have to fur that body and call it a "Furderbird" 🤣

Google the VIN of your Jeep.  If it pops up on en.bidfax.info it will tell you what it sold for.

Edited by Furbird

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Pics!!!

 

I've googled the VIN, and nothing.  Weird, no?  Also, any idea why AFI was simply a "no way" on buy-back?  It's super easy to rebuild or part out cars in AZ.

 

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I don't know the legal ramifications in your state, but in Alabama if you wish to retain they have to give you a number.  I've had some people tell me astronomical amounts back when the restrictions were nill on things going overseas (like Camrys to Dubai for the idiots to do their "drifting" videos where they would pay above retail for a SALVAGE CAR!)  It's not like that anymore although a pile of stuff does go to Mexico and South American countries from here.  We're seeing more an more owner retentions now because the insurance companies are totaling for nothing now and people don't want to deal with the unknown of a used car.  Next few months it will get worse especially on trucks since the market is so overpriced.

Your Jeep probably went sky high, as almost all Jeeps do.  One of my rebuilders had to buy one out of New York, hit in the rear, with frame damage, to get it cheap enough to make it worthwhile.  New York inspector said it would have to have a frame to pass inspection there, so now I tell people, "If you think I'm too strict, try to get this inspected in New York."

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On 7/26/2020 at 1:38 PM, Furbird said:

6 years of doing this and they still act surprised when I reject something because they didn't provide documentation for some major component they replaced.

Damn car rebuild police.

 

If someone buys a totaled car from a difficult state, gets it re-titled and registered in a state that's easier, then takes it back to the difficult state; does it have to be re-inspected?  I assume they'd just transfer it since it's already titled & registered.

 

 

It's funny how different things are in different states.  In CA you can buy a totaled vehicle and all you need to put it back on the road is a brake and light inspection.  It doesn't matter how fucked up everything is/was as long as those two things are good.  It can still be a mangled mess, don't matter.  I've also learned that it can be easy to get around a salvage and keep it a clean title car, I've done it with two cars.  In both cases I told the buyer, they didn't care.

 

When I did my 999s I showed up at the inspection place with it in the bed of the truck expecting to have to unload it for them to test stuff.  I was a bit nervous because the tail/brake light wasn't DOT, the guy said that as long as it works he don't care.  Then he asked if I test rode it before buying, yes.  "Did you get on it"?  "Fuck yea"!  "you're alive so the brakes work, ok, come inside and we'll do the paperwork".  It never left the bed of the truck.

 

From there I had to go to DMV for a VIN and engine number verification.  He was too fat/lazy to get up into the truck to see it (base Tacoma squatted down with the cargo) so I volunteered to read them off to him.  The engine number was hard to see so I read it off the paper I was holding.  It was legit, but I could have easily faked it.

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